Thinking of a Schucks or Kragon short block

[pedal2themetal45]

HI ALL
I've been pricing rebuilds and most of the machine shops want $1,200 to $1,300 to rebuild my 170 thats in my 61 Comet...
I'm looking just for a depenable daily driver. I'd like to keep the matching numbers 170 but I don't think I can swing the $1,300, the car needs front end work as well...
Now I also have a 200 that need rebuilt (out of a 65 stang) that I can use for a core.
Now my options at Schucks are.
a C4 casting of the 170 short block for about $800.

a D8 casting of a 200 short block for $699. and I pickup a head and dizzy out of the scrap yard (for the 78 fairmont) and of course a header.
Then I keep the orginal 170 for if I ever sell the car and the person can have the orginal motor to rebuild to keep it orginal.

So I guess my question is are they a decent rebuild for a stock applaction and which would you go with (are matching numbers that much of a concern now a days for stock classic cars)
Thanks for helping in my delima
Tim

 

[addo]

Can you order the D8 with zero deck and no cam or timing set? That might be my pick.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI ADDO
They said there was no options.
Whats up no one else have any input for me?? I could use some help... any srinks in the house :
Tim

 

[PLP6400]

If the car is going to be your daily driver? I say go with the 200 ci. I don't think that a numbers matching 61 Comet is ever going to be worth a lot. An all original 61 Comet is not a lot of fun for a daily driver. Replacing points every 15,000 miles, adusting the brakes, vacuum wipers, AM only radio and an underpowered engine. Most people who like the style of the early Comets, want better brakes, more power, and creature comforts. To give you an example of Comet values. I have a 65 Comet 404 with a V-8 and a 4 speed. If this car was all original, the NADA book says it is worth about $6,500 on the high end. I have been offered $9,000 for it just because it has modern day brakes, newer 302 engine and a lot of creature comforts. The final decision is yours and you will do what you want.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Thanks PLP6400
Looks like you were the srink I was looking for. What you said makes alot of sence.
Now one of my question was are the schucks rebuilds anygood do you know??
Thanks
Tim

 

[LaGrasta]

The rebuild comes with a warrenty so that's about as good as you're going to get. The thing with Shucks is each location/city uses a different local rebuild shop. You really can't say if it's a good build since it will vary depending on where they are located. See if you can find who is actually doing the work.
A lot of guys get the C4 tranny from($399) them and I have never heard of any problems.
Matching numbers? No value to it when it comes to our cars. Unless you're building a Vette or a $40,000 muscle car, it doesn't make much of a difference.

 

[jimarlie]

You ask for opinions so here goes - By the time you get the head etc you are going to be up around your original $1200.00. I say save up and do it right with a quality proven local shop. There isn't much to doing a bottom end. The bigger $$$ come when doing the head.

Jim

 

[63comet]

For what its worth, I will throw in my 2c. I have a 1963 comet, that had a 170 ci automatic, I debated what to do. I decided after reading this forum, to upgrade to a 200. I paid 150.00 for a 83 ford LTD with a 200, spent 650.00 for boring, cleaning and decking of block.another 900.00 or so for cam and lifters, springs and new pistons and bearings, headers from cliffords, luckily I didn't have to have the crank turned or it would have been additional for the turning and polishing,as it was I just deburred it myself.I then spent another 400.00 for new (can't use old stuff on new rebuild) dizzy(dII), oil pump, water pump and gasket set.Than I spent several hours (enjoyment) putting everything together. I have around 2500.00 in the SHORT BLOCK. I wont get into how much more I have tied up in the top end. To make a long story shorter, get the rebuild from Shucks. Again just my 2c.

 

[Anonymous]

I'm glad this was brought up. I'll be in the same situation here soon when I try to get my 62 tudor on the road. I think I'll shop around to different shops to see at what kind of a deal I can come up with for a short or long block 200. What was the difference in price between the short and long blocks? Just woundering what the difference in having the head done by someone else and the block done by Shucks/Checkers.. If they can do blocks they should beable to do heads.. right? Who do you trust.....?

 

[Anonymous]

see if you can find a rebuilt or low milage 200 that someone yanked for a V8. they are around....and relatively cheap

then do the front end work.

what good is "go" if you cant control it?

chaz

 

[Falcon62]

Here's my $.02. First, there's no such thing as a "matching numbers 170" for your Comet, really. Matching numbers means the engine is matched to the serial number of your vehicle, which Ford did not do with any inline sixes I'm aware of. An example of a numbers matching engine would be the 428CJ in my 69 Fairlane. The first two digits of the VIN "9R", followed by the serial number 12xxxx are stamped on the rear of the block and the cast iron tailshaft on the C6 tranny. That's a numbers matching engine. It's the exact engine placed in the chassis at the Ford production plant in 1969.

Now, it's possible to have a year correct casting number in your Comet, and the block, head, and exhaust manifold should have a casting number starting with C1. This is not possible with a 200 since the first ones were cast with a C3OE number, which corresponds to a 63 Fairlane. As has already been mentioned, an original engine won't add or detract value.

IMO, you should go for the 200, it's a direct fit. Find the parts to finish it off and enjoy the 30 cube increase. More HP and torque will give you a more nejoyable car to drive.

Check around, seems strat1960's posted a link to a rebuilder in AZ that provided longblocks for the price you're considering for a shortblock. I'd certainly check that option first before dropping any cash locally.

8)

 

[PLP6400]

I would like to think that most people into older cars Know that "Numbers Matching" is a generic term like Positraction. Positraction is a GMC name, Ford's is Equa-Lock, But everyone says "Posi". Any Car auction you go to will say this is a numbers matching car. Even if it is a Ford from the sixties. All this means is that engine, rear end , transmision, interior, and any other items match the warranty plate, which we all call the Door Tag. Or match the Build sheet if it still exist. Of course all part and casting numbers have to be for the year model of the car.

 

[Guest]

..a generic term like Positraction. Positraction is a GMC name, Ford's is Equa-Lock, But everyone says "Posi"...

That has to be my biggest gripe ever. "Posi" is GM. "Equa" & "Trac" are Ford. :x :x Grrrrrr...

 

[addo]

Interesting. Here, the engine had a unique number (different to the body) up to about 1968.

It was correspondingly stamped on the shock tower at assembly stage (that was the first they knew of exactly which motor was going in). It consisted of a letter (motor size/compression) followed by four digits. Eg; D1012 might be a 200. The same number is then found on the number pad of the block.

It makes for quick confirmation of an original motor in an Aussie Falcon. This, we call "matching numbers".