Timing??

[flash_point01]

I'm new to the forum so please spare me and rest assured that i have spent much time searching past posts concerning this issue. I have a 67 mustang 200ci with pertronix ignitor I, MSD blasterII coil, pink wire intact, Autolite 46 plugs gapped at .045 a new set 7mm cables, and what i think is a holley 1946. The first issue that i have been having is that i cant find a distributor hold down to adjust the timing so instead i've been adjusting it by the bolt in the distributor, the second issue is that the timing was set at 10 degree's but when I went to advance it a little more it started hard, fighting the advance i assume, but runs like a champ. What concerns me is that my timing mark is about two inches past the 14 degree mark. Why would it run so great at this setting? Is there a danger to the engine doing this? I haven't driven since the change. Is it possible my timing chain is off and this would be an appropriate setting?

thank you very much
Chris

 

[page62]

I'm a little confused. How can a distributor be held down without a hold down bolt? And what does "two inches beyond the timing mark" mean? How are you setting your timing?

 

[wsa111]

Sound like a case of slipped pulley on the crankshaft damper.
You need to check TDC & see if it corresponds to '0' on the crankshaft pulley. Bill

 

[Mercury Mike]

I'm with wsa. You better start at square one and get that thing runnin' like a top. And the distributor hold down bolt is on the clamp behind the distributor, towards the firewall.

 

[flash_point01]

turns out to be an ID-10-T problem . I turned myself upside down and climbed in next to the motor and found my hold down bolt. When I had looked earlier and couldn't find it and when i was able to adjust the timing some how through the bolt in the distributor i figured there must not have been a hold down bolt. I properly adjusted my timing, including isolating the vacum advance, to 14 degree's. She starts a bit easier and is almost as peppy.

page62 What i meant was that the timing mark on the pulley was an inch past the 14 degree mark when the engine was running with a timing light on it, so it would by like 20 something degrees BTDC.

wsa111 I'll check to see if TDC is lining up with the zero mark on the pulley. Which means using a piston stop to find TDC of #1 then make sure the 0 mark is in line the #1 TDC??????

 

[addo]

That's the most accurate way of doing it. I've not personally seen one slip, but others have.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[grocery getter]

on a side note,does the petronix reguire a drop down in voltage ?
if you can get rid of the pink wire you'll fully utilize that coil.

 

[cfmustang]

When I was having all the troubles tuning my engine two summers ago, I eventually found that my damper had slipped 10 degrees!

 

[Bort62]

I would like to know what bolt you were turning initally that was changing your timing.

You said in the distributor?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Flash Point:

And welcome to the Forum. I thought I had a lock on the ID-10-T problems. It's good to know they happen to others too.

FYI- be sure to disconnect and plug your vacuum advance source from the carb when setting the initial advance and lower you engine idle speed to the 500 to 700 rpm range.

One last thought. If your carb is a Holley 1946 it is designed to sent a ported vacuum signal to the distributor. Your stock '67 Load-O-Matic distributor is designed to use a load sensitive signal from the Spark Control Valve on a '67 Autolite 1100 carb. The miss match is not a huge problem, but is a design mismatch. There are two good "stickies" at the top of this site describing both the function of the Load-O-Matic distributor and the SCV in '67 and earlier Autolite 1100.

Again, welcome, and enjoy.

Adios, David

 

[flash_point01]

Thank you all for the replies.

grocery getter: According to the Pertronix web sit you sould limit the Ignitor to 8.5 amps. The 5.7 actual volts I have coming from my pink wire at the .7 ohms one the MSD blaster = about 8.1 amps at the distributor. Assuming i'm correct? I plan on upgrading to a Duraspark and fully utilizing my MSD then.

CZLN6: After reading different posts I became aware of the carb, distributor mismatch. As i plan on switching to a duraspark and upgrading to a 2bbl i'm not too concerned. thanks though.

And Finally Bort62, I honestly expected a little more crap from you but thanks for starting out easy. As i am not sure what i would call all the different parts in my distributor it makes it difficult to discribe what i mean. so here is a pic

This was a very unreliable method in changing the timing and very difficult to get it just right.

 

[65andonly18]

Im confused about the "getting rid of the pink wire" Does that mean just not use cut it off or what? Thanks.

 

[page62]

Im confused about the "getting rid of the pink wire" Does that mean just not use cut it off or what? Thanks.

Bypass it or replace it. And get a coil designed for non-resistor-wire applications.

 

[flash_point01]

The pink resistor wire comes off the ignition and runs out to the positive terminal on the coil. I went with the MSD blaster coil because it can be used with or without a resistor. With the pertronix ignitor or an original points system you'll need to have a resistor but if and when you upgrade to say a duraspark II you can by pass the resistor and run a full 12 volts to the coil. Check this out for more.

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47489&highlight=dreaded+pink+wire

http://www.pertronix.com/support/tips/default.aspx#a2

 

[flash_point01]

I've noticed after making these changes i'm running with a much higher oil pressure any thought on why that might be? I had normal pressure after my last oil change and now after adjusting the timing, changing the coil, plugs, and wires i'm pegging it out on the high side

 

[johnnyzoom]

"That bolt was under here". 'Here' is the rotor, that bolt is part of the cam and shaft assembly, which goes down into the ... oil pump drive. I'm a little worried that you tried to lock down the distributor with that bolt. Hopefully someone can chime in, but it may be part of the oil pressure change.

 

[page62]

The pink resistor wire comes off the ignition and runs out to the positive terminal on the coil. I went with the MSD blaster coil because it can be used with or without a resistor. With the pertronix ignitor or an original points system you'll need to have a resistor but if and when you upgrade to say a duraspark II you can by pass the resistor and run a full 12 volts to the coil. Check this out for more.

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47489&highlight=dreaded+pink+wire

http://www.pertronix.com/support/tips/default.aspx#a2

Actually, you can use a 3.0 ohm FlameThrower coil with an Pertronix Ignitor with the resistor wire removed. Or use the 1.5 ohm coil and keep the resistor wire in place.

 

[flash_point01]

Thank everyone for the help. finding TDC kinda fixed itself. as i was pulling the manifold to install headers I snapped a bolt. After much cursing and throwing tools I decided to pull the head and have some one who knows what they're doing take care of it. So while the head was off I could easily see that I'm about 6 degrees off on my timing marks. for now I'll just paint a new mark on the damper pulley at the zero degree mark. I fix it the right way once I pull the block. As for the high oil pressure I'm still at a loss.

 

[Bort62]

Well, I can't see your picture from work (firewall) but I can promise you that no bolt inside the distributor will affect oil pressure.

I also cannot decipher how adjusting the timing or otherwise tuning up the car would increase oil pressure.

Possibly faulty gauge or sender?

 

[MustangSix]

The only bolt-like thing under the rotor is the point cam. I can assure you that if you put a socket on it and turn it hard enough, you will either shear the roll pin on the drive gear or strip the gear entirely. This will definitely affect oil pressure, but probably negatively.

Look at the oil pressure sender to the right of the fuel pump. If the wire comes loose and hit a ground, it will peg the gauge.