torque converter studs grinding starter

my starter just ate itself while i was bumping it to adjust my valves on the new engine. i removed the starter and it looks like the torque converter studs were hitting it, the studs were also hitting the trans inspection cover. when i installed the engine, i also installed a new flex plate. would the flex plate have anything to do with the grinding. im thinking about grinding the studs further with my dremel to keep them from hitting.
 
Does your engine have a block plate installed between the trans and block?
 
How long are the torque convertor studs, usually stock they are about 3/8 inch to maybe 1/2 inch?
 
:bang: No you don't want to try that it that it would be a bad idea! If the convertor is not fully seated into the front pump correctly there is a chance it will ruin the front pump. When it's seated correctly the convertor will be loose enough to have a gap between it and the flex plate and will be able to side up easily to the flex plate it should have at least a 1/4 inch gap between the convertor stud seats or flats and flex plate when the convertor is bottomed out in the front pump. If it's tight against the flex plate do not run it or drive it until you pull it back apart and get the convertor seated into the pump correctly. Good luck :nod:
 
I drove it home last week and it was driving good until i was about half way there, then it started making the grinding sound, the long crank to flex plate bolts were defiantly part of the problem, i changed to the correct size, the rockers were also being noisy, so i checked them out and found that they were totally destroyed from not getting enough oil since the rocker shaft was round unlike the stock D shaped shaft, i was in the process of adjusting some stock rockers when the starter ate itself, thats when i noticed the marks from the converter bolts.
 
:hmmm: Try taking all the torque convertor nuts off and see if it will move back into the pump any and have the gap as explained above. That will tell you if the convertor hub is lining up going into the front pump and input shaft correctly. When they slide in and bottom out there is a solid thunk like sound after awhile of installing them it's much easier and you know that it's right. After rereading your first post this morning like you stated I am also wondering about the new flex plate, with it setting on a flat surface did it match up to your old one in height? If it's not the same height (measures less) then it may be pulling the torque convertor forward enough to cause the studs to hit. Did you get the rockers to now oil good? Good luck :nod:

Edited
 
i checked the converter and it is properly seated. I think the grinding might have had something to do with the crank bolts. I wonder if i might have made the compression too high on the engine.
 
Excellent news on the convertor! :thumbup: Ok did you change the oil and filter yet so there's no shaved metal in the engine. What compression did you make the engine? Good luck :nod:
 
10 1/2 - 1 comp however i do not remember if i took the pistons being 30 over in account when i used a compression calculator. the engine has 48cc chambers in the head, 30 over flat top pistons, stock deck, fel pro head gasket, im going to see if mixing a gal of race fuel with the 91 will help. another thing that is odd is that the engine will only run if i advance the timing to 25deg, that seems way too high, i did advance the 264 cam 4 deg
 
Did you zero deck the block? If not I think you will be at about 9.8 to 10.0 SCR and about 8.00 DCR. Sounds like you need to work on the distributor curve some too.
 
:hmmm: You were much closer on the C.R. I ran these numbers .030 over Bore 3.710, stroke 3.126. 48 CC chamber, .050 compressed head gasket, flat top piston, .015 down the hole I guessed at that spec since you did not mention it so that may need some adjusting but that Equals a 10.3 compression ratio. Stock dished piston deck height is .019 down the hole that would drop the compression down some to 10.19 to know for sure you would also need the piston pin height. Yeah my hearing is not the best at some tones I did hear it the second time. Have you done any plug reading yet? You might want to make sure that it's a little on the rich side tell you get everything dialed in. :nod:

Edited
 
:beer: :thumbup: :nod: seems like you should be close on C.R. For 91 Oct. fuel. You could maybe try a water / alcohol mix injection unit for racing or higher RPM. Have you set up the curve on the distributor yet? If you need to run that much base timing you would need to limit the total advance too. Good luck :nod:

Edited
 
i had FalconSedanDelivery recurved the distributor, i might need to re adjust the carbs to allow for lower advance. i bought a gal of 110 oct gas to mix with the 91, im going to see if that helps. i hope it isnt my timing chain, i should be able to pinpoint the noise today
 
What camshaft are you running???? Answer this & I might have a solution to your problem.
There is a missing link here & I am trying to figure it out.
 
Back
Top