tri-power dyno numbers?

SVO42

Active member
I've searched but can't seem to find where anyone has run a tri-power setup on a dyno. I've found about every other combination besides that, though. Anyone have some numbers? What were the specs on the setup?
 
Well, with a butt-o-meter, it was about the same as the Oz250/2V I ran. I'd say roughly around 140RWHP depending on the tune. I ran 3 1100s for my set up. Same cam, transmission, and block for both set ups.
 
FWIW, the log mount tri power is a very poor kit, with poor porting giving inconsistant power due to different hole sizes between the center carb and the outers. For the early ones, 1.3 center, 1.09 outer, for the later ones, 1.6875" center, 1.4375" outers. Either way, the air fuel ratios are not even through the rev range, and you have to spend an amount of dyno time to get them working well.

If done right, you can get 143 rwhp with just three 29 mm progressive ICT Weber 1-bbls on a 200 cube 61 Falcon tudor, or over 210 hp with three ' straight unison linkage' Autolite 1101 in the center and 1904 Holley's outboard on a 65 Mustang (Drag car only) 250 Six + goodies , , 14.39 so far.

For 200 dyno figures, see kevinl1058 on viewtopic.php?t=64712.

Flywheel Corrected # 177.05H.P., 204.20 lb-ft
H.P. peak at 5100 RPM. Torque Peak at 3250 RPM

Dyno3.jpg



Video http://vimeo.com/20044528

For 250 quarter mile figures, see FalconSedanDelivery.

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=41798&p=502631#p502631

This guy is too quiet, his set up is very creditable 200-225 flywheel hp, and most likely the most powerful triple 1-bbl around. He runs a unison linkage, high initial advance of 16 to 18 degrees, total timing to 30 degrees its all in at 2350, decked block 100 thou and head 120 thou for huge 12.3:1 C/R, and the worlds neatest tri power intake ever seen. His 14.39 @ 91.76 mph was is shifted at 5000 and 4300 at the traps, earlier runs were 5200 and 4700 rpm. He ran with 3.5:1 gears for the 14.39. Best 60 foot time 1.915 secs in a 2600+ pound car with a an estimated 165 at the rear wheels.


 
I wish this guy had hung around longer.. 1-fast-6. I PM'd him a while back for additional info on how the car was setup, never got a response.. So I googled 1965 Mustang Coupe SCCA Solo 2 250. And found this
[url=http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-talk/227285-has-anyone-hopped-up-inline-6-a-2.html:1uqsggyd said:
GeorgiaSnake--AllfordMustang.com --HiPo 250 inline 6[/url]":1uqsggyd]OK, I have done this in my 65 Mustang coupe. First you should do this with a 250. The 250 will let you more easily use the V-8 transmissions as the rear of the block accepts the same bell housings and the same flywheels. the following is a listing of my mods:
Offenhauser intake adapter for 3 autolite or 3 webber carbs
early Falcon 170 head with the adjustable rocker arm set up
Dampened valve springs
Hooker Duel Exhaust header
Mallory YC series duel point distributor (obsolete)
13.75:1 compression pistons (for the street I dont recommend this and I have to run either racing fuel or Avgas)
Hays Aluminum Flywheel
11" clutch
4 speed transmission
larger universal joints (I used a cut down big block mustang driveshaft)
4.11 Detroit Locker 9" rearend (from a 1957 Fairlane Stationwagon - narrowest 9" Ford made and a direct bolt on)

When Dynoed my car made 387 bhp @ 7800 RPM. I do drive it on the street but it is limited. I mostly use it for SCCA Solo 2 racing or what some call Auto Cross. The rest of the car is also highly modified. The Offy intake adapter is by far the best most efficent way to go than any single carb. It puts a Carb directly over every 2 intake ports. When installing the header make sure you also install the included 3/4 exhaust port splitter. Stock those ports are not truely separated. This is important. To balance the carbs pick up a Unisyn gage, it is made by Edelbrock. Its easy to use with some practice. I also recommend a solid lifter cam so bone up on how to properly do valve lash (with the engine running). I have some pictures of my car and the engine on a couple of sites. If you want more info you can contact me.
 
IICRC plugging ih the numbers into a simple et to hp program I came up with 128 rear wheel hp. That was before the current tune which feels stronger by seat of pants. So 140 rwp is a good estimate. With the comp.260 cam this combo pulls pretty strong between 2800 and 5000 rpm.
 
I beg to differ , Sounds like Internet Hype to me , Sorry in a NA ( normally aspirated state ) the LOG head is just NOT capable of that much hp , and no 250 would stay together at 7800 , its no wonder you got no reply , I think , MAYBE 1HP per cube is doable , but its way beyond a reasonable budget , Get a Aluminum or OZZY Head , or go Turbo , My project is on Hold till I get my Life better situated ( moved to TN for a Job , Working for Blair Patrick Racing ) but it will resurface, I found some carb issues that were keeping me from lower ET's ( Fuel slosh )the Engine is going in My Falcon , its lighter still than the Mustang , low 13s high 12's are expected
 
Oh Faron, ye of little faith. He said he has a secret custom solid lifter cam and a dual point distributor that is out of production.. surely 1.58hp per cubic inch is doable. (end skepticism).

Does10's turbo 250 is a far better example of a 350hp 250cu/in motor (I'd have to double check that hp number).

Faron, while you are reading, do you have any better pictures of your motor than the ones Dean (xctasy) posted?

I've got quite a few inline sixes sitting on my shop floor and have been considering a tri-power on my spare head.
 
I do have more pics , I will try and dig them out , I will e-mail them ,so send a address link or something , Does 10's is actually over 400 HP ( about 415-430), again Aluminum Head and a Big Hair Dryer , But Damn Cool
 
Faron, I sent you a PM with my email addy.

I couldn't remember off the top of my head what his dyno numbers were (or if he had posted them). A long, long, long time ago (circa 2001/2002) there used to be a guy on here named Colorado66. His was the first and only tri-powered 200/3.03 I have ever ridden in. When these motors can breath they are like a completely different animal, that thing built RPMs like nobody's business. Here are a few pictures of his burgundy '66 at a car show in Fort Collins CO..
Drivers_Side.jpg
Engine_Drivers_Side.jpg
Triples_and_Headers.jpg
Triples_and_Headers_2.jpg
And now before I lose those again, i am going to upload them to Photobucket...
 
They are definitely better with tri-power , sadly only so much can go through that log no matter the number or size of carbs , the 200 will RPM , higher and easier than the 250 , but I like the 250 for low rpm grunt and transmission availability , I use 200's when its a Early round body and only the smallest amount is wanted to change , a 144-200 is a great thing
 
I know there is alot of "cool" factor to run the tri-power setup and it does really look mean...but for all the hassle it takes to make them run right a properly setup 2 bbl conversion on a log head is easier and can run just as well if not better. My last dyno pull was 168 rwhp with my 250...I think it may be slightly higher now as I have tweaked the carb since then which gave me about 2 to 3 tenths improvement in et. So maybe like 175 rwhp or so? Just sayin...
 
If your MPH didn't go up , you made NO more power , but you did make it more efficient , a stock eliminator car running your MPH would run 14.40-50's
 
FalconSedanDelivery":34rwujn5 said:
If your MPH didn't go up , you made NO more power , but you did make it more efficient , a stock eliminator car running your MPH would run 14.40-50's
My MPH did go up about 2 MPH so maybe a little more power then...
 
I would like to find some jetting and tunning tips for my trip webber setup. Love the attention @ shows but i know that more HP is available.
 
shetland":2efqqlpt said:
I would like to find some jetting and tunning tips for my trip webber setup. Love the attention @ shows but i know that more HP is available.

I would suggest getting an AFR meter to aid in tuning. my build is very similar to yours and my current jetting is 65 idle jets all 3, 180 main in the center and 165s in the outers, idle mixture screw 2 1/2 turn out on the center and 1/2 turn on outers, outer idle speed screws are as far out as they will go without the butterfies sticking and I set the idle off the center. I idle at 750 in park and 650 in gear, and I run 14* initial timing and 37 total. your settings will be real close but you may have to jet up a little to compansate for the difference in temp and altitude ( 100' above sea level here ).
 
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