A
Anonymous
Guest
I remember seeing a site that outlined a DIY approach to a triple carb set-up for the ford six. I can't seem to find it now. Does anyone know where this might be?
Thanks,
-Josh
Thanks,
-Josh
http://www.kastang.net/offenhausermod.html
That's for the manifold. If you want a complete DIY kit, that will work, just weld on some mounting plates and you'll be all set.
Slade
That's for the manifold. If you want a complete DIY kit, that will work, just weld on some mounting plates and you'll be all set.
Slade
A
Anonymous
Guest
Cool. Thanks for the great site!
I laso remember seeing a site that showed how to modify the stock intake to mount three 1bbl carbs. It also discussed linakge options, etc...
Anyone seen this?
-Josh
I laso remember seeing a site that showed how to modify the stock intake to mount three 1bbl carbs. It also discussed linakge options, etc...
Anyone seen this?
-Josh
Gene 64 2dr
Well-known member
You have a great web site. I'm thinking of going the triple carb route myself. Does the Offy manifold work with all of the log heads? I have a "68" head that has the larger log and a flat top. The pics of your mod looks like you used an earlier type that's round. I've seen plenty of pics of the top of the manifold but never of the bottom so it would be nice to know before I track one down and spend the $$.
Gene
Gene
A
Anonymous
Guest
I think there are actuall about 6 head configurations. and i have seen two kits from offy. one has the full length ribbed manifold body and adds a little extra height to the whole assembly. this earlier kit uses the o-rings to seal against the top of a curved tubular head/mabifold. there are at least two different styles of heads with the tubular manifold section. the early, has the tubular section parallel to the top of the block. later the tubular section was kicked up at the rear about 3 degrees relative to the block surface. the early offy kit also has an additional 3 degrees of rear kick-up added. so when you use the early kit on a stock 68 head you get double rear kick-up. this is the way mine is setup currently. also the 68 head has the 1-1/2 stock carb hole and is basically a tubular manifold section. but you need to do considerable grinding and fitting to get the o-rings to seat nicely. this needs to be done very cautiously. i used white-out and black grease-pencil to aid in the bedding process getting the two to fit together niceely.
mine is currently running with the end holes capped, so i can tweak-in
the vacuum advance, oil coller, oil filtration and my general rebuild break-in. i do plan to change over to pure synthetic quickly after initial break-in
I have some 1100's , a pair of 1909's, several 1908's and smaller 1904's i am working with.
right off the 1100's have an interference problem on the two smaller end holes...butterfly interference. if you leave on the original 1100 bases they are too tall. i am not sure chamfering the holes in the manifold will even work, since it will create a wierd flow pattern around the butterfly.
so i might mix. not sure.
but i do like the old glass bowls. they do look pretty neat. you can put the old glass bowls on any of the side-bowl carbs.
maybe a 1-9/16 bore 1904 with choke on the center, with two 1-7/16 bore 1908's on the ends with the chokes removed.
I am still sorting it out in my head.
I used the black exhaust wrap over my headers. A very even thin layer with 1/4" overlapp. then sopped it with the black silicone special paint.
it is incredible how the literal blast-furnace effect coming off the headers has been removed. and the tinny header ring is completely gone, sound quiet...coming directly off the side of header...more like a cast iron manifold. it was actually the header noise combined with the turbo exhaust tone that said "rice". It has real nice mellow deeper tone with the loss of the header side racket.
I will keep reporting as it proceeds. i am adding a small tach, vacuum guage and fuel pressur eguage to help diagnose.
frankie
mine is currently running with the end holes capped, so i can tweak-in
the vacuum advance, oil coller, oil filtration and my general rebuild break-in. i do plan to change over to pure synthetic quickly after initial break-in
I have some 1100's , a pair of 1909's, several 1908's and smaller 1904's i am working with.
right off the 1100's have an interference problem on the two smaller end holes...butterfly interference. if you leave on the original 1100 bases they are too tall. i am not sure chamfering the holes in the manifold will even work, since it will create a wierd flow pattern around the butterfly.
so i might mix. not sure.
but i do like the old glass bowls. they do look pretty neat. you can put the old glass bowls on any of the side-bowl carbs.
maybe a 1-9/16 bore 1904 with choke on the center, with two 1-7/16 bore 1908's on the ends with the chokes removed.
I am still sorting it out in my head.
I used the black exhaust wrap over my headers. A very even thin layer with 1/4" overlapp. then sopped it with the black silicone special paint.
it is incredible how the literal blast-furnace effect coming off the headers has been removed. and the tinny header ring is completely gone, sound quiet...coming directly off the side of header...more like a cast iron manifold. it was actually the header noise combined with the turbo exhaust tone that said "rice". It has real nice mellow deeper tone with the loss of the header side racket.
I will keep reporting as it proceeds. i am adding a small tach, vacuum guage and fuel pressur eguage to help diagnose.
frankie
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