Troubleshooting: Engine lacks high speed performance/ power.

[CoupeBoy]

most likely you can see the fitting that is going into the distributor and visually confirm that it is not damaged. It sounds like the threads aren't engaging completely as you try to tighten it up. There is a chance that you boogered up the starting thread inside the vacuum advance. If possible you should try to get the hard metal vacuum line as straight as possibe to aid in getting the fittings ligned up before starting to thread them together. Or if you have another fitting (brass perhaps from the parts store) with the same threads/pitch you can try to spin in something else in hopes that it either magically works, or straightens out the threads enough to work.

I hate working with hard lines, they have so little flexability that they can be difficult to get started.

lots of luck,
-ron

 

[Axle Roads]

Can you replace the Vacuum advance control diaphragm with out taking out the distributor?

 

[66 Fastback]

Yes, the vac cannister can be removed without pulling the distributor. I am not sure how readily available the cannisters are for the Load-a-matic. If you have to special order, and want to get on the road quickly, a rebuilt distributor may be the quickest option. If you go that route, you might consider going to the 68 and up distributor.

If the threads are stripped, then you may have had a vacuum leak which may explain any retarded ignition timing at speed.

When testing the vac advance without a vac pump, I suck on the line to the distributor and see if it holds vacuum. With the distributor cap off, you should see the plates & linkage move when you suck on the line.
With the engine running, if you suck on the vacuum line, the timing will advance and pick up engine rpm's if the advance is working.

Doug

 

[Axle Roads]

If you turn the plate inside the distributor with the vacuum line removed should those springs inside the distributor be strong enough to return the plate back?

 

[66 Fastback]

If I understand you correctly and assuming the Load-o-matic is no different than most distributors regarding plate movement, yes, the plate should snap back into position when the vacuum is released or when you have manually rotated the plate. If it does not return or is very stiff, the distributor likely needs service to free up the linkage under the plate.
Doug

 

[Axle Roads]

I used to have a machanic adjust the timing, so I forget which nut is it. My manual says to loosen the hold-down bolt and turn the distributor, so I guess that might be the center arrow.

None of my wrenches seem to fit back there. The distributor's too close to the block. I read on mustang monthly that on some after market distributors you turn the nut on the diaphragm, as shown on the arrow on the right. I tried turned the nut on the right a half turn in both directions with the timing light and it didn't seem to make a difference.

I posted detailed pics here.

While I'm down here I've always wondered what the heck that vent on the left was for; anyone know?

 

[Stubby]

Look in your third pic down and you will see the hold down clamp at tha base of the dist.
The little flap is where you put a little oil.

 

[JackFish]

Umm, maybe a dumb question from someone with a rubber vacuum line, but how do you rotate the dizzy with it being attached to a hard line?

 

[Axle Roads]

I'll let some else answer that since it's obvious I haven't done it yet. I'm going to NAPA today to pickup a new vacuum advance control and fittings, would anyone suggest I switch to soft-lines?

 

[Stubby]

The steal line will flex enough to adjust the timing. I like the steal lines. However, when the steal lines have a problem, it is easier to run rubber lines.

 

[66 Fastback]

When I still had my Load-a-matic, for some reason I either kinked the line or it had worn a hole in it due to vibration, I forget. Anway, I cut the steel line and used the end fittings. Then I used a rubber vaccum line to slip over the ends of the steel lines. This may be an alternative, because I suspect you might have trouble finding small adapter fittings that would convert it back to a hose nipple.

You can always bend the steel line slightly when adjusting the timing, but the steel line does make it harder to reconnect the line without cross-threading.
Doug

 

[wallaka]

Umm, maybe a dumb question from someone with a rubber vacuum line, but how do you rotate the dizzy with it being attached to a hard line?

You just bend the line slightly when you hook it back up after you move the distributor. Just like you do with a rubber line.

 

[Axle Roads]

• replaced distributor vacuum advance control diaphragm
• replaced male fitting
• fixed leak
• lubricated distributor
• gapped points wide
• tested vacuum advance with timing light
• reduced timing: electronic=6, points=10

Still runs like poop. Now what?

 

[MPGmustang]

I really don't know what else can be thought of... i keep thinking of the qoute on here "sometimes the simple answer is the correct one" or something along the line.

basic maintianence, clean the carb with carb cleaner and a high rpm... should help get rid of any carbon in the chambers as well...

how is your cap? the ball in the middle?

are you letting it warm up all the way? is the choke fully open... then go for a drive

if the engine runs good and the car doesn't "go" then i think your trans needs a look at...

what does the enigne sound like when accelerating? normal? bogged down? free rev'n? be very descriptive...

what's the condition of the oil? normal? black? coffee? clean? low/full?

is there a new noise that you're not used to? from where? what's the sound? when does it occur?

does the car shake while driveing? what speed?

get a cheap tach and note the rpm your' driving at... butt-o-meter is good but need better knowledge... note the acceleration in each gear... when does it shift?

carb, are you running rich? (told by the plugs)

maybe i went over board but something is being over looked...

Richard

 

[66 Fastback]

reduced timing: electronic=6, points=10

I don't know what this means. Is the timing at 6 deg or 10 deg? Are you running point or pertronix?

Anyway, why would you reduce the timing? It will idle better and accelerate better if you can get as much advance as the engine can tolerate.

You may need to check the to see if TDC as indicated on the balancer and timing scale is actually at the TDC of the #1 cyl on the compression stroke. The implicaation here is that if your reference mark is not correct, then when you set the timing, it will not be correct. My car had a slipped balancer ring and performance stunk. I timed it by ear until I got a new balancer.
Doug

 

[TucsonHooligan]

Carb! Rebuild the Carb!

 

[Stubby]

You obviously have moe than one problem. You are headed in the right direction.

If the exhaust manifold was getting glowing hot, you need to address the timing issue.

You didn't say if the plate in the distributor will move properly and snap back to it's normal position.

When you started this post, the info you gave, made me think the transmission was slipping. The trans slipping won't hurt the engine unless you over rev it. If the car starts losing speed and the motor revs higher, back off the throttle.

 

[Axle Roads]

Can this carb be saved?

I got the distributor plate to rotate and the line attached to the advance control holds a vacuum for 20 minuted without a leak. I'm not as confident about the seal at the carburetor.
Where can I get another clip for the distributor rotor?

how is your cap? the ball in the middle?

Is this in the carb?

are you letting it warm up all the way? is the choke fully open... then go for a drive

I used the choke when it was cold this winter, I soon learned to feel the difference if I accidentally left it on. That's not it. I can see the butterfly in the carb is vertical. I let it warm at idle for a minute before leaving the driveway. I drive around the town before conducting tests: compression, timing etc.

what's the condition of the oil? normal? black? coffee? clean? low/full?

Normal

does the car shake while driving? what speed?

No shaking at speed. Only after experimenting with timing did it once shake while in reverse.

I need to get a dwell/tach working
To Be Continued.

 

[MPGmustang]

do you have a manual choke or an auto choke?

it seems to me that you found an important problem to fix first... that crack in the carb port is important for acceleration under load, not in park/nuetral, i would replace the carb as it's very deep, i think you can go to the junk yard and find them easily, not many ppl want to keep a 1bbl lawnmower carb around :roll:
but i would put replacement carb on top priority for figureing out what's wrong... i'm sure there are some for $50 or less...

-Richard

 

[Axle Roads]

I don't know what this means. Is the timing at 6 deg or 10 deg? Are you running point or pertronix?

The only Pertronix I have are flamethrower spark plug wires (which just broke, ). I designed a custom ignition circuit for my car, If your curious, I'll post a drawling here. When I learned from David's book that there where coils which can run both points and electronic modules, I realized that I could use a triple-pole-triple-throw switch to toggle between a stock setup or a TFI-IV getting it's signal from a point type dizy. I love it.

I'm thinking that I'm currently getting two different timing figures because of the difference in dwell. In the past, when the points were gapped to specs there was no difference. Currently my points are gapped as wide as possible so that they will last longer. I usually run in electronic mode, which keeps perfect dwell irregardless of point gap. I temporarily reduced my timing to see if the pinging I heard would go away. (Not sure yet, my exhaust leak is so darn loud, I might as well run open headers, lol).

carb, are you running rich? (told by the plugs)

Yes, plugs look rich/cold. If I want to go more lean do I turn the screw on the carb clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Those of you who like to tune a car with a vacuum gage, where are you taking your numbers from. I hooked up a gage to the advance line at idle, and noted no change while turning the distributor.

You might be wearing me down on the carb rebuild. haha. So, my carb just says "FORD" and I have a pony carb book, but it doesn't tell me the exact model number. Does anyone have a model number for a 67 mustang load-o-matic?