Troubleshooting: Engine lacks high speed performance/ power.

One of the main bearings will have flanges. The crank has two shoulders that locate the crank, for and aft. This keeps the crank from moving forward or backward.
When torque converters go bad, they can push forward on the crankshaft and cause a heavy load on the thrust bearing. This will wear out the bearing and the rear thrust surface on the crank.

When checking for excessive clearence on the thrust bearing, you need to move the crankshaft forward and backward and note how much the crankshaft will move. The belts on the front of the engine will prevent you from moving the crankshaft. Relax the belt tension and try to pry the crank both directions.
 
Ok, I understand now. I tied to pry the flywheel with a screw driver but it's not easy to exert much force without a fulcrum. So haven't learned anything, yet. Is this thrust bearing something that is routinely replaced on a C4 rebuild anyway.

You know, I have recently noticed a subtle rumbling or shuddering while backing out of the driveway. It goes away pretty quick.

Would failing torque converter cause me to loose third gear? I'm still using the car on local roads. I think the problem is getting worse and I'm starting to rely more on second gear. Is it not wise to shift to second gear at 20 MPH and accelerate to 35 MPH Should I not drive it in anymore until it's fixed?

If all I need is a TQ should I still buy a rebuild kit? Bearings? Other stuff?
 
i'm a little lost but what i understand is that you shift into 2nd gear around 20mph and into 3rd at 35mph... that was better than mine!!! i shiftted into 3rd @ 40mph most times and i was just staying with traffic and i would stay in 2nd gear until i hit 60mph if i floored it getting on the freeway. honestly 35mph sounds about right for 3rd gear... just IMHO...

Richard
 
No, I haven't seen third gear in awhile. I was talking about manually moving the shifter arm to engage another gear.

I'm not sure what to do next, I'm still waiting on a new vacuum line. What do you think I'll see if I temporarily hook up a vacuum gage to the vacuum modulator line and then dive around? Does anyone remember if the governor assy is inside the transmission or mounted on the outside like the diaphragm on the distributor?
 
Axle Roads":3qrnahyw said:
Does anyone remember if the governor assy is inside the transmission or mounted on the outside like the diaphragm on the distributor?

IIRC- there is no governer on these older cars... that i know of. (i stand corrected)

but what kind of power loss are you talking about... acceleration power? cause that usually contributes to the gear you drive in... you have the same amout of power but your useing it at more of a controled rate, slower per say.

Axle Roads":3qrnahyw said:
No, I haven't seen third gear in awhile

what do you mean... do you see second? how fast are your roads? mine is 45 most of the time unless 25 residential...

i have noticed that my 4th (is your 3rd) sucks at 30mph or slower... why because the rpm is not in it's torq or hp range, meaning that my rpm is like 1000 or close to... i use 4th gear (your 3rd) at 35-40 mph to stay around 1800ish rpm.

i know that our cars are different but the concept is there for a stock engine... your 3rd is my 4th it's 1:1 and the rpm might be different as you have an auto so your rpm might be higher..

Richard
 
With this many posts & you still have the same problem, i know it is time you bought a real distributor with electronic triggering & centrifigul advance.

Get the distributor curved by a professional & try manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance part.

In all do respect i feel you are beating a dead horse with what you have.

Second, you definately have a trans problem if you have no 3 gear.
is your shift indicator accurate???

The governor on a C-4 trans is attached to the main shaft inside the tailshaft housing. The modulator is on the outside.

This will give a place to start so you can enjoy your ride. Bill
 
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