Valve Adjustment breakdown. Talk to me like I'm 6.

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I have been looking in the manual and also on other sites on how to adjust the valves on my 200 6, and I have no idea what they are talking about. I have heard one explanation that kinda makes sense: "with the valve cover off on the side you are adj. start it up turn it till it stop chattering then turn it 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and you are done." I'll let you all critique that sense I have no clue how to do this. Talk to me like I'm 6 so I can do this on my own.

Thanks!
 
nicholaseb":19ud431i said:
I ve been looking in the manual ... I have no idea what they are talking about. I have heard one explanation that kinda makes sense: "with the valve cover off on the side you are adj. start it up turn it till it stop chattering then turn it 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and you are done." I'll let you all critique that sense I have no clue how to do this. Talk to me like I'm 6 so I can do this on my own.

Thanks!

I'm a believer in knowing how it works:

(Talk to me like I'm 6) , you need to adjust the hydraulic lifters (pumps) that push open the valves. As the cam lobe pushes the hydraulic lifter, the oil in it bleeds out until the valve lifter clearance "preload" is met. Then the valve is pushed open "'hydraulically" to intake or exhaust gases.

The manual usually says - make sure the valve you are adjusting is fully closed - This can be observed easily. Back off the adjuster until it just meets the lifter and then add a little "preload " of yours ( or the manual's ) choosing. A little valve clatter is the hum of the Falcon Six engine,,,


PS : If you have an early solid lifter engine , please seek professional help or at least an eight year olds' guide ,,,

Powerband
 
ludwig":31c8p0tz said:
Valves need to be adjusted on hydraulic lifters?

If you have adjustable rockers like I do, yes. Mine was apparently one of the early runs where they were emptying the parts bin, I have hyd. lifters and adjustable rockers from the early mechanical lifter engines.
 
Walka...

Maybe that is what I have also. Per some unknown booklet, it said to bend the rocker back and see that there was .090 to .100 gap at the valve tip. Then the Hydo is in adjustment.

Still clatters for me, until engine is 1/2 way to being warmed up.

I narrowed it down to about .075" gap, and it shut up then. This too tight?

Nicer to do it with engine shut off and cold. Then don't have a oil smokey time.

Wm.
 
If there's an adjustment screw on the rocker arm, they are adjustable. I don't follow a set rule, I just back them off until they start to make a noise, then tighten a quarter turn (or until they quit making noise). This is done with the engine warmed up to operating temp. If it still clatters at startup, tighten a little further. Just enough for them to quit making noise. If you tighten too far, the valve won't close all the way and it'll start skipping.

The only time I'd adjust with a feeler is if I had solid lifters. There's so much slop in hydraulic ones that a couple thou won't make a difference.

Adjustable:
adjrockerstmb.jpg


Non-adjustable:
nonadjrockerstmb.jpg
 
Wall....

I have rockers like what are on your upper pictured example.

Per one place I read years ago, it gave example of rotating crankshaft to Zero, then bending back the arm, measuring tha gap, then divide by two. This to put you 1/2 way into the mush lifter range. Takes like an hour to do this.

Or, gap to as I noted.


Wm.
 
what i do to my six when i had an adjustable hydraulic setup (ford australia mechanics in the day did this to save time in the long run) is let the car sit without staring it for a week or 2 to let all the oil drain out of the lifters, them adjust the bolt until there is no movement (no gap between valve and rocker arm) this way you virtually run solid lifters and gain a few more hp and rpm. ford australia had a tool to release the oil out of the lifters i missed out on one on ebay a few months back for $20 aud.
 
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