I have a 65 Falcon with a 250 out of a 75 Granada. It has a Carter 1 bbl on it. The motor has less than 3000 miles on it since the rebuild as well as the carb. Since day one, I have not been able to get this carb to run worth a darn! From time to time I have read that members have had their head machined to accept a 2bbl carb. My question is, should I remove the head and take it to a machine shop for this work, or is there a source for heads that have already been worked and are for sale? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and I have got to get it running better than it does now, or I'm going to run it off a cliff!!! Thank you. Thomas Ft. Bragg NC
WANT TO ADD 2BBL CARB TO MY 250...
- Thread starter jugrnaut
- Start date
8) pull your head and ship it here;
http://classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=136
mikes people will rework the head for you to your specs for a quite reasonable price.
http://classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=136
mikes people will rework the head for you to your specs for a quite reasonable price.
Thank you for your suggestion. I called them and got a price quote, it is very reasonable! The only bad thing is the 3 week lead time they need to turn it around. That is usually a sign of a good business, when people are on a waiting list to have work done. Any carb recommendations for the motor once I do the conversion? It is a stock motor and is a daily driver. I just want it to run good and get me back and forth to work. I have a c-4 automatic trans and a stock Ford electronic ignition system. Thanks again for your help!
Thomas Ft. Bragg NC
Thomas Ft. Bragg NC
Depending on what you are most after and amount of budget.
For more performance reasonable cost, easy to work on, and tune both these are good carbs the Autolite is easyiest to work on few parts will give a little better Fuel economy over the Holly 2400. The Holley is only slightly harder to work on with a few more parts.
Autolite / Motorcraft 2100 used on many Ford V8’s
Holley 2 V list 2400 series also used on many Ford V8 range from 350 to 500 CFM
Holley/Weber 5200 is interesting it has a progressive secondary so would still offer economy and also give good performance too.
For more performance reasonable cost, easy to work on, and tune both these are good carbs the Autolite is easyiest to work on few parts will give a little better Fuel economy over the Holly 2400. The Holley is only slightly harder to work on with a few more parts.
Autolite / Motorcraft 2100 used on many Ford V8’s
Holley 2 V list 2400 series also used on many Ford V8 range from 350 to 500 CFM
Holley/Weber 5200 is interesting it has a progressive secondary so would still offer economy and also give good performance too.
I am going to go ahead and pull my head and get it ready to ship. I will follow up with the results when I get the head back. I can't wait until I get this problem taken care of. It's bad enough that it runs poorly, throw in the wife's "I told You so's" and it's enough to drive a guy to drink! 
Thanks again!
Thomas Ft. Bragg NC
Thanks again!Thomas Ft. Bragg NC
If your engine is a fresh rebuild maybe you should just try another carb or check yours over first. The carbs usually work very well some problem areas are with the old nitro type floats can absorb fuel so that it sinks making it flood or run to rich they will just be too heavy replace with new. Some of the brass floats would get a crack in them take in fuel you can fix them by opening up crack a little more with a punch to drain out the fuel, dry and than solder the hole up. They are noticeable heavier than a new. Other area is a worn base or throttle shaft makes vacuum leak so idle is erratic can be re-bushed and or a new shaft or change out with another one. And last you could just use an adapter to mount the 2V to save all the time and work of taking it apart.
jugrnaut":3ljvf4o7 said:I am going to go ahead and pull my head and get it ready to ship. I will follow up with the results when I get the head back. I can't wait until I get this problem taken care of. It's bad enough that it runs poorly, throw in the wife's "I told You so's" and it's enough to drive a guy to drink!
Thomas Ft. Bragg NC
8) i think instead of pulling your head and sending it in, hit the local salvage yards and see if they have a head you can send to mike. that way you can keep your car running for now, and swap the heads when you get it back from mike. then you can send the other head to mike for similar mods and have a spare if needed.
as for what carb, use a 2100 autolite from a 67 mustang with the 289, or any 302. i got a reman through advance auto a few years ago for my 66 falcon with the 170.
First off, I'd highly recommend the 32/36 progressive Weber for a stock motor. However, if you decided to go with a Holley or Autolite, I would recommend the 240cfm Autolite. Not only does the Autolite 240cfm have smaller venturi's, which will give you better throttle response, it also has Annular Fuel Discharge. Annular discharge atomizes the fuel more completely, which helps to eliminate hesitations and flat spots, especially under low vacuum conditions (idle and/or low rpm). When we dyno tested the 32/36 Weber, Autolite 240, and Holley 350 carbs last summer, the Weber had the best throttle response. The Autolite hesitated (just a little) under hard acceleration, while the Holley had a noticeable stumble. However we didn't try re-jetting or re-tuning any of the carbs, as our time on the dyno was limited. Peak HP gains were about the same for all three carbs (within 2 HP).
As for the cylinder head, find a large log head...... We recently flow tested both small and large log heads (stock and modified), and found that the large log heads offer a huge advantage over the small log heads. In fact, with larger valves and some port work, we were able to get a large log head to flow just about as well as a stock OZ head.
Here's our peak numbers:
Stock large log = 127cfm
Modified large log = 146cfm
Stock OZ250-2V = 155cfm
Modified OZ250-2V = 176cfm
Stock CI Alum = 210cfm
Modified CI Alum = 231cfm
Here's the numbers in a bar graph, which makes it really easy to compare.
As for the cylinder head, find a large log head...... We recently flow tested both small and large log heads (stock and modified), and found that the large log heads offer a huge advantage over the small log heads. In fact, with larger valves and some port work, we were able to get a large log head to flow just about as well as a stock OZ head.
Here's our peak numbers:
Stock large log = 127cfm
Modified large log = 146cfm
Stock OZ250-2V = 155cfm
Modified OZ250-2V = 176cfm
Stock CI Alum = 210cfm
Modified CI Alum = 231cfm
Here's the numbers in a bar graph, which makes it really easy to compare.
Jugrnaut:
Do as rbohm & the boss man say and buy a large log head ('77 up vintage) to have modified.
I run a Weber 32/36 DGAV and am quite happy with it but these carbs (like most others) require a bit of jet tuning. I welded an O2 bung in my headers and use a narrow band O2 sensor for carb tuning - not a precise as a wide band O2 sensor but much cheaper and still quite good. BTW, I used the O2 sensor to dial in the main jet size on the Autolite 1100 that I was using prior to the Weber with good success also.
Do as rbohm & the boss man say and buy a large log head ('77 up vintage) to have modified.
I run a Weber 32/36 DGAV and am quite happy with it but these carbs (like most others) require a bit of jet tuning. I welded an O2 bung in my headers and use a narrow band O2 sensor for carb tuning - not a precise as a wide band O2 sensor but much cheaper and still quite good. BTW, I used the O2 sensor to dial in the main jet size on the Autolite 1100 that I was using prior to the Weber with good success also.
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