Want to do H/W 32/36. Any advice?

[Anonymous]

I think I'll buy a Pony (or other) 32/36 H-W carb next week and install it this summer. I'm going to make my own "funnel", with an EGR port on the side, so the emissions bullies won't shut me down. But, it will introduce much less EGR, because the H/W is not tuned for it and I don't wish to burn my valves....

So, I need advice about linkage, choke setups (other than manual, please, I don't think my wife would ever understand that one) and some heads-up tips from those of you who have done it already.

I'm thinking about installing it parallel to the head, simply because the EGR valve will be in the way otherwise. I think would simply the Fairmont throttle linkage, anyway (I have a '79 FairFoxBox).

Tips, anyone?

 

[JackFish]

I got the Stovebolt adapter because it would appear that if you use it with the exisiting EGR plate it orients the carb the correct way for the Fairmont.
I haven't installed my 5200 yet because the 1946 I rebuilt is performing really well, and it's really cold out, not working on the car much at the moment.
I'm also concerned about running into tuning issues as mine is a daily driver, and I can't say I've seen really definitive answers about some questions regarding setting up the 5200s.

 

[t-west]

Another of the benefits of the Stovebolt is that it allows you two orientation possibilities for the carb. "Sideways," so that the butterflies are parallel to the log like the Clifford adapter allows. This is easiest for linkage setup. "Forward-facing," so that the butterflies are perpendicular to the log. This is best to prevent a turn-induced lean condition.

Also it's $15 instead of $65. Finally, when I ordered my Clifford adapter and went to remove my carb spacer, I hadn't noticed that my log bolts were way too short to work with the Clifford adapter, so I'll have to mill off some of the bolt flange on it. Finally, you'll have to fabricate a pipe for your EGR valve to connect to, as the Clifford only comes with a threaded hole.

best,
--tom

 

[Anonymous]

t-west:

By "turn-induced lean condition", are you saying that the H/W float levels are shifting too much when the car is turning hard? (Not that my wagon is a slot car....)

I remember this happening a lot on the FoMoCo-Holley 4bbls on the 351 HO engines. We had to install "splash baffles" on them to keep them from flooding out the engines when hot, on a hard and sudden right turn.

Is this a similar situation?

By the way...how tall are these "adapters"? The Fairmont hood is pretty close to the air filter already, making an impression in the hood blanket....how tall is the H/W carb, say, compared to the 1946C Holley?

 

[xctasy]

Too easy if you can be bothered removing the head and finding some rare Capri components!.

If I was you, I'd do the first part of a log with a direct mount Holley 2300 conversion.

As per the Falcon Six Perfromance handbook. They add some metalwith a welding rod, and machine. You drill two of the four 46 by 96 mm bolt patterns, and then add a 2300 Holley base plate according to there suggestions.

I'd go to just adding enough metal to place a 32/36 bolt pattern flange there, which is much smaller than the direct mount 2300 flange.

Then, once that far, just add a 73-74 Capri 2600 or 74-75 Mustang II 2800 adaptor!

Although it means 'meddeling' with the Cylinder head, it does mean the carb can sit right on like they did in the Pinto/Mustang/Fox 2300 OHC engines.

Compared to the 2.0 and 2.3, the import German V6's had carbs turned thru 90 degrees. The float bowl was pointing to the sidewalk on those engines, with the linkage going back to the drivers side firewall, real simple.

On a direct mount flange, the V6 version of these 5200 adaptors should fit on really easily.

Are you aware that the Weber 32/36 is a an indentical twin to the Holley Weber 5200, but that like all identical twins, there are differences in the manner in which the parts are arranged?

Everything on a 32/36 is a mirror image of the 5200. All the basic bits are from the same gene pool, but the primary and secondary throttles are reversed, the auto choke is on the other side, the linkage is reversed, the vac ports are revesed. I've got twin brothers, and despite what is said, aint no two people ever alike, and same with the Holley Weber 5200 and the 32/36!

The manual 2000 Pinto and the manual Cologne 2600/2800 V6 carbs had a absolutely terriable 'Decelearation valve' which cuts in at high vaccum. The Port Vaccum switch set-up used to stop it operating when very cold, on choke application and on fast idle.

There is a factory Pinto air cleaner which can flow quite well if modified to suit.

The 5200 is a handed version of the 32/36, ie a mirror image carb. From the back, a 2000 Pinto with 5200 Holley has the same linkage as the 2000 Cortina with a 32/36 Weber.

.

The best carb adaptor is the one which turns the carb around to the orignal orientation Weber intended. Then the linkage can be taken up from the firewall side, as per Pinto practice. Reversed, the 32/36 lookes like this:-

The kickdown linkage is just rod operated on Pinto C4's and all Falcon engined Foxes with C4 and C5 can run either a rod or a cable, so you can copy the Cologne V6 cable kickdown or the Pinto C3/C4 or the Fox C4/C5 kickdown, your choice.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the pix, Execute!

It looks like the 32/26 would be an easier mounting with the log-headed 200. I like Dave's 2-bbl mods, but the emissions police here would never let it fly for a daily driver. I think it would take a lot of tweaking to get the MPG back up into the 20s with the constant 2-holer, too. And, there would be no good spot to enter the EGR, which is required here.

I think it will have to be the 32/26 instead of the 5200. I had a Capri with the 5200 (nice car!) and I really liked it - very tunable. I'm kinda hoping for that again in the 32/26 version.

The Capri air filter will fit under the Fairmont hood, I think, if the adapter is not too tall. Boy, I wish I could get my hands on one of those "PI" Fairmont Futura security cars....this would all be so much easier. I could steal the carb setup, put mine on that one and sell it again to recoup the costs..

 

[jamyers]

Does the EGR have to be functioning, or just present? If they just do a 'present-and-accounted-for' check, somebody *could* bolt one on but not drill out the passages...not that I'd actually suggest that, but...

Heck, you could probably drill/tap bolt holes anywhere on the intake and bolt on a dummy EGR valve and the emissions-nazis would be satisfied.

If they do a tailpipe test, you could still do that, as long as you can tune the engine to pass.