Weber 38/38 PVC port missing ?

yoozeq

New member
Today I installed Weber 38/38 on my 200. My problem is that I don't see on my carb PVC port so I don't know where shoul I connect it... I also notice that this Weber has vent hose near fuel input and I don't know what to do with that... should it stay open or clese ??

My Weber is on small log and I used classic inline adapter. Here is picture :)

10245343_620406168039494_1841022842_n.jpg


On the photo below I connected vent hose to the pvc installed into oil catch can but... it is inproper I guess... What should I do with this hose ??

1509113_620406238039487_817383547_n.jpg
 
The PVC can be connected to the vacuum T (block) below the carb and on side of the Intake Log. the bowl vent would go to the fuel vapor canister if your car is equipped with one. If not you could try capping it off or make a one way check valve vent. Good luck nice clean install on your Mustang. :thumbup: :nod:
 
Thx for your answer :) Do you think that connecting pvc to intake t cube will work fine with brake booster connected there already... Since today i didn`t have pvc at all but the smell is annoing me so i deceidwd to do the job. Can you tell me what is peoper direction for one way valve ?

I`m happy that you like my install :D
 
Yes I think the PCV will work fine along with the power brake booster. If you like you could also drill and tap your carb adapter and install a fitting for the PCV there instead. A simple one way check valve would have a small ball (carb check ball or ball bearing) with a light spring that would allow air to vent out of the fuel bowl but would close when the engine is not running. Couple other ways you could bring that vent hose into the base of your air cleaner or also run that line back to your fuel tank and vent it into the top of tank or the fuel filer neck.
 
I have that vent on the carb capped on mine, since I don't have a vapor canister. Not sure if it's "correct", but it runs well. Then I have a vacuum line coming off of that port on the side of the intake log which is tee'd to the PCV valve and the trans vacuum line (I don't have power brakes on mine).

That's the nice thing about the Clifford adapter, it has a threaded port on it for a vacuum line to the PCV. Unfortunately I had all kinds of fitment problems with mine so I gave up and got the Classic Inline one.
 
Ok so i think i will rute vent hose to carb filter base and try to connect pvc to inlet cube. I read that weber doesn't like vacum leaks via pvc... is it true? I also have to rejet carb because idle is 1 1/2 turn in ... mixture is 1 1/2 out . Do you know how to setup electric chocke ? Before carb swap i had one with tube connected to headers.

Kerb what is your final jet setup? does it run well ?
 
I had a real tough time getting the 38/38 to run well, it would only idle if the idle speed screw was too far in and it was running on the main jets, and it was running so rich I couldn't deal with the exhaust. I gave up and tried a 32/36 and it's much easier... My idle speed screw and mixture screw are exactly where they should be. I'm using the stock jets that came with the carb. I don't really have anything to compare it to because the engine was seized originally, and I did the rebuild and all the mods at the same time... but it runs well.

I ran my power to the choke from the line originally going to the coil, but I've been thinking about changing that to be from a full 12v source. I set the choke idle to 1500rpm.
 
Thanks for your info. That is bad news about 38/38 ... I had hope that you figured it out... I already fired my engin and the setup i have is 1 1/2 turn in idle and 1 1/2 mix ... Exhaust smells bad / rich ... I will try to put bigger idle jet...
 
There are plenty of people using the 38/38, so I'm sure it can be done, I guess it just didn't work with the mods I've done.

I would suggest backing your idle speed screw out more, so it's only 1 turn in while you're getting the mix right.. it's very easy to have it too far open where it pulls from the main jets and that will throw everything off. Your mix will always seem rich, no matter what you do with the mixture screw, and you'll run into all sorts of problems.

Also, I believe having the mixture screw 1/2 turn out is still within the acceptable range, so I'd try turning it in more to lean it out before switching jets.
 
Oh one more thing, is your timing still set to 12*? If so you might want to try up to 14*. That helped me get a fuller burn with my duraspark distributor and MSD ignition box, so I imagine it would help with your DUI too. It cut down on the carbon buildup on my spark plugs a lot.
 
Ok, tomorrow I will try to lean mix screw more and see what will happen. I have very similar mods to your with one big difference ... I have manual transition. My timing is set on 12* like in DUI manual. BTW Stang is running like a wild horse burning tires that is great :thumbup:

In my garage I have redone big log head from 70's (should be better for weber 38) but I can't find in Poland mashine shope able to direct bolt carb on it... Have to read more about it...
 
yoozeq":p1q1z808 said:
Today I installed Weber 38/38 on my 200. My problem is that I don't see on my carb PVC port so I don't know where shoul I connect it... I also notice that this Weber has vent hose near fuel input and I don't know what to do with that... should it stay open or clese ??

My Weber is on small log and I used classic inline adapter. Here is picture :)

10245343_620406168039494_1841022842_n.jpg


On the photo below I connected vent hose to the pvc installed into oil catch can but... it is inproper I guess... What should I do with this hose ??

1509113_620406238039487_817383547_n.jpg


My 38 is different then yours as mine doesn't have the nipple on top where you have a hose running down to the can. I've learned the 38s are finicky about vacuum so I closed off the vacuum port below the carb on the intake and just installed a mini filter on the PCV valve. In your case, I'd try moving the top hose from the can to the PCV since that won't affect the vacuum signal through/below the carb. It'll just pull some of the fumes from the crankcase and mix it with the fresh air above the venturies. Before PCVs the older engines had road draft tubes that vented to the atmosphere, jmo, RodC.

Here's some extensive reading about adjusting the Webers 32/36s and 38s:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber ... n-1051137/
 
yoozeq":2mv3vnle said:
In my garage I have redone big log head from 70's (should be better for weber 38) but I can't find in Poland mashine shope able to direct bolt carb on it... Have to read more about it...

Care of stanyon

stanyon":2mv3vnle said:
I used a Makita buffer with a 8 inch cutting wheel to take off the riser for the stock carb and allowed me to bolt on a Weber 32/36
http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t394 ... og-milling


from http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t394 ... og-milling
cuttin11.jpg
cuttin12.jpg

78_log10.jpg
78_log11.jpg
 
Thanks :) I see that he didn't use any metal filler in thin places. Today I will speak one more time with machine shop in my city about this job, hope we will do this in the near future:)

MT63AFX now I know why people say that PCV with Weber is bad idea, when I tryed to connect it, my engine was warking :thumbdown: So now It's free like before ;)
 
I had a lot of problems getting the 38 to run with the PCV connected too, but for some reason the 32/36 seems to run fine with it. The downside of having it disconnected (other than Ford claiming reduced engine life) is that now you suck in all the blow-by fumes through the vents to where you sit. Once my engine breaks in more, I might try disconnecting it again and see if it gets better... but right after the rebuild, I was getting dizzy off it.
 
kerb12":30s69p2f said:
I had a lot of problems getting the 38 to run with the PCV connected too, but for some reason the 32/36 seems to run fine with it. The downside of having it disconnected (other than Ford claiming reduced engine life) is that now you suck in all the blow-by fumes through the vents to where you sit. Once my engine breaks in more, I might try disconnecting it again and see if it gets better... but right after the rebuild, I was getting dizzy off it.

I haven't experienced any fumes as at first I just had the PCV valve in place minus the hose and just recently installed a small K&N-style filter to the PCV Valve. I'd use the port on top of the Weber if it was there as I seem to be experiencing some condensation /milky build up in the valve cover. The PVC system would draw the condensation/moisture and fumes through the carb to be burned.
 
kerb12":6hzo5vis said:
I had a lot of problems getting the 38 to run with the PCV connected too, but for some reason the 32/36 seems to run fine with it. The downside of having it disconnected (other than Ford claiming reduced engine life) is that now you suck in all the blow-by fumes through the vents to where you sit. Once my engine breaks in more, I might try disconnecting it again and see if it gets better... but right after the rebuild, I was getting dizzy off it.

Scratches head to activate memory banks


1. There are different types of baffles and PVC sizing for Ford i6 engines. Mustang Geezer had some problems with his set up too, its typical of the problems when a non standard rocker cover and early non compatible to Weber 2-bbl Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is used.

2. The stock 1978 Fox valve cover has a long plate to cover blow by from entering the carb, and all US and European market Cologne V6 and I4 Pinto and Kent i4 engines in from 1969 to 1988 when they stopped using the Weber based DGAV/DGAS/DFV based carb used a large collector off the sump to cushion the system...the blowby droplets were further away in a long 3/8" internal diameter tube.


You probably should copy


3. the Lima 2300 set up for the Holley Weber 5200, or
4. the Fords 2-bbl Weber 34 ADM in the 3.3/4.1 XE to XF Falcon alloy heads from 1982 to the last of the utility cars in 1992, they used a simple balanced system with check valves.


I'm kinda busy with other stuff, but there are schematics on line for each set up.

Note well. The PCV must function. It looks like you've copied that set up, so the only other thing is the blocking it off the inlet to the carb float bowl top, and using the air cleaner base like Ford did with the Aussie 1982 to 1992 Falcon's. That's what I did with my LPG Falcon.



http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/xecute6/th_IMG_7098_zps3b4778f5.jpg


http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/xecute6/th_IMG_7088_zps881f1b7e.jpg
 
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