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Anonymous
Guest
What type of oil do ya'll recommend for these sixes? I've been using 30w and just wanted to make sure that it was right.
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Anonymous
Guest
My 250 only had 64K on it so I ran 10W40 in it.... Technology in oil has improved dramatically over the past 30 years so I really don't think single weight oil is necessary unless your motor uses oil.
I had a computer crash a while back and lost a lot of my data. I had found some good info on testing of different synthetic oils, and the bottom line was that Mobil 1 is about as good as you'll find at your nearby Walmart. A couple of others are marginally better, but more expensive and harder to find.
Check out these web site for some good info (specially the third):
http://www.viperclub.org/articles/oilfaq.htm
http://www.synlubes.com/about/faqs.html
http://hint.perm.su/auto/auto/ehoilfaq.htm
I have been running Mobil 1 for the last 3 years in my 66 Mustang 200. I picked up about 1.5 MPG (I keep careful track of my mileage) on road trips. I drove from Nebraska to MA and back in 2000 (3100 miles or so), and Nebraska, Dallas, Virginia, Nebraska this summer (about 4100 miles). Most travel was at the highest speed I could get away with (75-80 MPH).
I used 1/2 qt in the 4100 miles, and that is because I have a small oil leak between the block and head. The Mobil 1 has done a good job of removing the paint off the sides of my block.
Check out these web site for some good info (specially the third):
http://www.viperclub.org/articles/oilfaq.htm
http://www.synlubes.com/about/faqs.html
http://hint.perm.su/auto/auto/ehoilfaq.htm
I have been running Mobil 1 for the last 3 years in my 66 Mustang 200. I picked up about 1.5 MPG (I keep careful track of my mileage) on road trips. I drove from Nebraska to MA and back in 2000 (3100 miles or so), and Nebraska, Dallas, Virginia, Nebraska this summer (about 4100 miles). Most travel was at the highest speed I could get away with (75-80 MPH).
I used 1/2 qt in the 4100 miles, and that is because I have a small oil leak between the block and head. The Mobil 1 has done a good job of removing the paint off the sides of my block.
After that long post, I forgot to say I'm using the recommended 10W-30. 
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Anonymous
Guest
Does anybody use that Valvoline MaxLife oil? "For High Mileage Engines"?
Curious if there are any (dis)advantages.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products ... ?Product=7
Curious if there are any (dis)advantages.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products ... ?Product=7
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Anonymous
Guest
:roll: i,am confused. i saw on the net last week a write up on oil. it was from an oil co. they said NOT to use synthetic oil in an older engine. they said to use the same oil that is to be used in diesel motors. it has the least of something and the most of something else. i will try to locate the web site and post it... frank..
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Anonymous
Guest
They say not to use it in older motors as in unrebuilt engines with higher mileage.... Synthetic oil has a high content of detergents, which cleans the engine of deposits better than regular oil. That's all well and good, except that on an older engine, those deposits are plugging cracked, old seals and gaskets.... If you remove the deposits, more than likely you will begin to develop leaks.
On a rebuilt engine or one with fresh gaskets is it fine to use.
On a rebuilt engine or one with fresh gaskets is it fine to use.
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Anonymous
Guest
Oh, and the diesel oil is suitable... 15W-40 is a good all purpose oil, great to use on old engines that originally required single weight oils... It's not necessary in all applications, though.
In the 5.0 Mustang and the Escort ZX2 I use Mobil1 5W30. I picked up almost 2 MPG over dino oil in the Escort when I switched, I've never measured mileage in the Mustang and I don't want to know. I change oil and filter every %k in the Escort and once a year in the Mustang. In the formula car and the truck I run Valvoline 10W30. The truck had 50K miles on it when I bought it and I was unsure of how it would react to synthetic. I change oil and filter every 3K. In the formula car, I throw the oil away after each race weekend and I'm too damn cheap to pitch Mobil1 after 2-3 hours of run. There's also the matter of Valvoline putting pretty big bucks into SCCA. Even though I'll never see any of it, when practical I tend to buy from companies that support my interests.
I'm convinced that synthetics are the way to go if you have a fresh engine. break it in on dino and switch to synthetic. Better lubrication, better response to temperature changes, better cleaning, etc., etc.
I'm convinced that synthetics are the way to go if you have a fresh engine. break it in on dino and switch to synthetic. Better lubrication, better response to temperature changes, better cleaning, etc., etc.
hotrodbob
Well-known member
Gee I wish I had had the same luck with Mobile 1 as you guys. When I put it in my Vette (GM recomended it) I lost 10 lbs of oil pressure and the engine was very noisy right from the get go. I got home and drained it right away and replaced it with Castor oil Syntec 5w50. Got 5 psi of oil pressure back and the engine got quite again. I have it in mt street rod now and get over 20 mpg with a sbc in a 3200lb car.
Pitted on an H/Prod Bugeye years ago. We ran AMSOIL I think and picked up 5-10 psi of oil pressure at race temps and lowere water temp. After our first practice session with the new oil we had to adjust the idle rpm down. We would have to change rod and main bearings after each week end race until we changed to sythetic. We had no bearing wear or engine failures that whole season. We also and I still run synthetic in the trans and diff of my Ranchero and it gave new life to the 2.77 trans. Shifts like it was new not 40 years old. The new engine will get Castor or AMSOIL after it gets broken in.
Pitted on an H/Prod Bugeye years ago. We ran AMSOIL I think and picked up 5-10 psi of oil pressure at race temps and lowere water temp. After our first practice session with the new oil we had to adjust the idle rpm down. We would have to change rod and main bearings after each week end race until we changed to sythetic. We had no bearing wear or engine failures that whole season. We also and I still run synthetic in the trans and diff of my Ranchero and it gave new life to the 2.77 trans. Shifts like it was new not 40 years old. The new engine will get Castor or AMSOIL after it gets broken in.
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Anonymous
Guest
hey guys... imho thereis no oil but royal purple syn. i piced up a solid 2 mpg. with no other changes. a friend is a local dist. i personally watched a friction,drag heat and bearing wear test it outperformed valv.,penn.,cast.,hav.,and yes mobile one. i think there are similar test results on the pet. inst. web. fwit i am impressed with their product. the basic differences in con. oil and diesel oil is zinc and metallic additives to protect valves etc. on older motors diesel oil is great former pennzoil man
For endless oil discussion, you can go here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
I was running Valvoline dino, which seemed to exacerbate valve-o-train noise.
Tried some Castrol GTX High Mileage, and the she's really quiet now.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
I was running Valvoline dino, which seemed to exacerbate valve-o-train noise.
Tried some Castrol GTX High Mileage, and the she's really quiet now.
8)
I used to run Castrol Syntec til I found out its not synthetic oil. It is a very highly refined and modified petroleum based oil. I think it was a good oil but for the prices they want for it its not much more to buy synthetic.
Mobil 1, Amsoil and Royal Purple are true synthetics.
I used to run Castrol Syntec til I found out its not synthetic oil. It is a very highly refined and modified petroleum based oil. I think it was a good oil but for the prices they want for it its not much more to buy synthetic.
Mobil 1, Amsoil and Royal Purple are true synthetics.
In my daily drivers I split the dif, and use the recommended Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, for half the price of synthetic or less. In the Stang I use only Mobil 1.
Regardless of "quality," the correct weight is also important. The correct Mobil1 10W-30 manages to seep through the head gasket of the Stang, but I'll bet it would just hemorrage on 5W-30. By the same token, the 2001 Windstar 3.8 calls for 5W-20 Syn Blend, and my brother-in-law's Porsche Boxster uses Mobil1 0W-30.
Regardless of "quality," the correct weight is also important. The correct Mobil1 10W-30 manages to seep through the head gasket of the Stang, but I'll bet it would just hemorrage on 5W-30. By the same token, the 2001 Windstar 3.8 calls for 5W-20 Syn Blend, and my brother-in-law's Porsche Boxster uses Mobil1 0W-30.
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Anonymous
Guest
I read this on an another forum about mobil 1
Anybody have word on the quality of the Motorcraft Blend?
The only car I ever bought new was a 1987 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 inline 6. I used Penzoil 10-40 from the beginning, always changed at 3000 miles with a new filter, and I got 403,000 miles out of the engine. It was still going strong with no oil consumption when my son ran it out of water and blew the head gasket.
-Joey
-Joey
