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Anonymous
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My dad has always ran straight 30W non-detergent oil in the car for years and I was just wondering if this is what everybody else is running of if I should be running something else.
Thanks.
Thanks.
i'm pretty sure that i've always run Mobil 1 10W-30, been so long since i've seen my mustang that i can't remember
but, there is one post here about diesel oil
apparently it has something in it that lubes better, i believe 80broncman posted it
just search for "Diesel Oil" you should be able to find it
but, there is one post here about diesel oil
apparently it has something in it that lubes better, i believe 80broncman posted it
just search for "Diesel Oil" you should be able to find it
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Anonymous
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Non detergent API "SA" rating.... ok for a break-in but it lacks a lot of cleaning capability you find in today's brand name oils. Spend another $.30 a qt, get a brand name detergent oil, and you'll keep the inside of that engine nice and clean.
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Anonymous
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I use Valvoline/NAPA (same thing) in my Comet and 69 Chevy PU. I run Quaker State 5/30 in my 94 Isuzu Rodeo.
Here is the thread evan is refering to I think :
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... diesel+oil
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... diesel+oil
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Anonymous
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My 1979 Fairmont manual calls for 10w40 from 20 degrees to 80 degrees air temperature or 20w50 for temps above 70 degrees.
I usually run 10w40 until summer, then 15w40 in the summer, just to save a little gas mileage. In the high country where I live, engines run hotter because of the thin air, so I don't like the 10w30, as it is pretty thin.
I usually run 10w40 until summer, then 15w40 in the summer, just to save a little gas mileage. In the high country where I live, engines run hotter because of the thin air, so I don't like the 10w30, as it is pretty thin.
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Anonymous
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Ive heard that if you have run a low or no detergent oil and then switch to a high detergent oil like diesel oil you can stuff your engine as it will strip the old sediment buildup the previous oil did not remove.
I like the diesel oil idea but Id use it in a gas engine from new or a near new clean engine.
I like the diesel oil idea but Id use it in a gas engine from new or a near new clean engine.
Mobil 1, 10W-30 in the 200 CID Mustang, Mobil 1 5W-30 in the 2.0 L Mystique, and Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5W-20 in the 3.8 L Windstar.
The Mobil 1 even cleaned the paint off the outside of the Stang's block, as a small amount leaks around the head gasket.
The Mobil 1 even cleaned the paint off the outside of the Stang's block, as a small amount leaks around the head gasket.
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Anonymous
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Tranny fluid is a high detergant oil...i like to add a quart to a batch of oil...i use cheap oil cause my PCV jar requires it...but i used a premium synthetic before that...
on a fresh engine after boring & proper modern day honing techniques use mineral oil such as castrol 5w-30 or 10w-30 after 4-5 thousand miles of breakin then and only the switch to the 21 century oil such as mobil 1 5w-30 or even motorcraft 5w-20 semi synthetic.
beware do not use these thin oils if you have an engine with a lot of miles on it & don't have positive valve stem seals.these new lubricants not only provide better miliage on fuel & engine life but almost no internal engine wear. they can handle higher operating temperatures & through superior technology. they also have a superior level of film breakdown as compared to mineral oil.
why do you think chevrolet & chrysler use them in the viper & corvettes.
even my ford lightning uses synthetic oil in the differential.
don't use these new oil in a worn out sloppy engine with a lot of miles on it
thats my 2 cents. william
beware do not use these thin oils if you have an engine with a lot of miles on it & don't have positive valve stem seals.these new lubricants not only provide better miliage on fuel & engine life but almost no internal engine wear. they can handle higher operating temperatures & through superior technology. they also have a superior level of film breakdown as compared to mineral oil.
why do you think chevrolet & chrysler use them in the viper & corvettes.
even my ford lightning uses synthetic oil in the differential.
don't use these new oil in a worn out sloppy engine with a lot of miles on it
thats my 2 cents. william
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Anonymous
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what major advantage do you get from synethic to regular motor oil? I use sae 50 vr1 racing oil in my old ass fairmont that burns so much oil its theonly way I can drive this thing for 2-3 days without putting oil in it=) its out of order as we speak and getting some MASSIVe recon to it... I also live in a souther florida area where the humidity is very high and the temp is around 90-100+ is using a 5w-20 or 5w-30 actually good for yer car at this temp? and I do plan on installing a oil cooler if this is a good idea
with your engine with many miles on it stick with what you are using.
if you ever do a professional overhaul, you might consider the miricles of modern technology.
my post is from a very professional level. i do this for a living at a lexus dealership. maybe i'm talking to 2% of the forum population. i'm just telling the best out there if you only have the best equipment.
mustang geezer just finished an engine i would consider top notch. if you are not on that level just use what you want to.just trying to be helpful & not sarcastic. thanks william
if you ever do a professional overhaul, you might consider the miricles of modern technology.
my post is from a very professional level. i do this for a living at a lexus dealership. maybe i'm talking to 2% of the forum population. i'm just telling the best out there if you only have the best equipment.
mustang geezer just finished an engine i would consider top notch. if you are not on that level just use what you want to.just trying to be helpful & not sarcastic. thanks william
10W-30 Mobil 1 in everything.
I think you lose a lot of protection by going with lesser grade oils. The extended viscosity range helps in cold and hot weather, and with synth oil, I don't even really worry about overheating much.
Synth oil can go to nearly 300 degrees before it breaks down (though the fuel system would probably fail before then). And it does carry away a lot of sludge and particulates that might otherwise be left behind with conventional oils.
The other factor is that I only need to change oil every 7000 miles or so, or approximately twice a year. If I were doing this kind of mileage with 30 weight non-det oil, I'd have to change it every 1500 miles, or every six weeks in my case.
I think you lose a lot of protection by going with lesser grade oils. The extended viscosity range helps in cold and hot weather, and with synth oil, I don't even really worry about overheating much.
Synth oil can go to nearly 300 degrees before it breaks down (though the fuel system would probably fail before then). And it does carry away a lot of sludge and particulates that might otherwise be left behind with conventional oils.
The other factor is that I only need to change oil every 7000 miles or so, or approximately twice a year. If I were doing this kind of mileage with 30 weight non-det oil, I'd have to change it every 1500 miles, or every six weeks in my case.
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Anonymous
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thanks for all the info. I think I am just going to keep running the straight 30w. I just had the head rebuilt, but did not touch the block. I dropped the oil pan and replaced the oil pump. The engine only has about 65,000 original miles on it. I only drive the car in the warm weather and probably only put on about 2000-3000 miles per year.
Thanks
Thanks
I run some kind of synthetic, or at least a synthetic blend in all my cars. It burns less in cars that have that problem, and it gives me a little confidence when I over-rev my machines. It's a little problem I have... 
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Anonymous
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There is no doubt the synthetics offer superior protection. And, it can be used to break in a rebuilt engine. The Corvette & Vipers and some other cars come from the factory with synthetics. However, if you have a carbureted car and are not pushing the extremes on temperature etc, I would use non-synthetic oils. The reason being is that older carbureted cars tend to get the oil dirtier quicker. The oil has not broken down but rather gets loaded up with fuel blowby due to larger tolerances, and more water condensation. So I would not recommend extended intervals possible with synthetics due to the contamination reasons.
Diesel oil is fine for non-catalytic equipped gasoline engines. It's rating is superior to gasoline engines with regards to anti-wear additives. Keep in mind though, that if your engine burns a lot of oil, these antiwear additives will also burn and build carbon in the cylinders. As mentioned previously, they help shorten the life of a catalytic converter if too much oil blowby is going out the exhaust.
By all means, use a detergent oil. The development of detergent oils and the PCV systems are a large reason that you do not see the sludging of oils that was present in the 50' and 60's.
Diesel oil is fine for non-catalytic equipped gasoline engines. It's rating is superior to gasoline engines with regards to anti-wear additives. Keep in mind though, that if your engine burns a lot of oil, these antiwear additives will also burn and build carbon in the cylinders. As mentioned previously, they help shorten the life of a catalytic converter if too much oil blowby is going out the exhaust.
By all means, use a detergent oil. The development of detergent oils and the PCV systems are a large reason that you do not see the sludging of oils that was present in the 50' and 60's.
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Anonymous
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when the 250 was in my mav I used 20w 50 valvolien in the summer and 10w 30 in the winter (the crank didn`t like the 20w 50 in the winter)
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