Whats the diff from single rail

[Anonymous]

hey there guys

i found a gearbox and clutch well everything for a auto to manual conversion for $300 and it a single rail what are so good about single rails everyone recommends them.
includes (gearbox, clutch, flywheel, clutch plate, clutch cable, clutch pedal)

Also someone meantion when i convert my car to manual i need to get some computer for the manual or something like that?
Is it just lies or true?

Ow yer also when i convert the car over to manual do i need a new tail shaft cause it not long enough or to short?????

Car Info
Ford falcon XF 87
4.1 x-flow EFI
Auto

thx for ya time

 

[addo]

I believe it has to be a cable clutch with the cable going to the passenger side. Confirm this detail, as there are others. Pretty sure you don't need a different computer.

The single rail is fairly durable, came in a variety of ratios for different cars including the P-76 and Cortina. It runs with gear oil, not auto tranny fluid. If it is out of a Falcon then the tailshaft length ought to be OK. If it is out of another car, the possibility is there, that the shifter is not in the correct position for a Falcon. Sorting this out gets pricey.

Regards, Adam.

 

[xdee]

Passenger side with unleaded bellhousing, drivers side with leaded. Of course, you can run the unleaded bellhousing on earlier models, but on unleaded cars you can't run the earlier bell 'cos the cable runs too close to the cat. Tends to melt the casing and sieze the cable.
Ford thunder, theres nothing special about single rails, IMO they're a heap of shite, but theres heaps of them, they're cheap, they can handle some power, and they are nice and light. BUT make sure its a rail you are looking at. Easy to identify- the shifter rail is exposed. If it isn't, don't buy it.

 

[Anonymous]

what do you guys mean the cable clutch will be going to the passenger side????? yer i thoug the computer would be fine my self if there problems ill just get the computer or just ask a local ford fan/machanic lol

the gearbox is off an XE crossflow but from what it looks like ive also found another gearbox but it comes with xflow efi or carby get to chose and th gearbox is standard 4speed

 

[addo]

There's a couple of things we missed. One will save you money in the longer term, one is for safety.

When you go from auto to manual, use NEW name-brand bolts for the flywheel to crank. Also, they are ¼" (6.35mm) longer than the securing bolts for an auto flexplate. New bolts from a name brand will be manufactured to stringent quality standards and could make the difference between a 10kg flywheel coming off the crank at 5500RPM and staying put. Potentially, saving your legs or life.

Also, buy a little bottle of "Permatex No 3" (about $12-15). This is a black syrupy sealer with a small brush attached inside the lid like plumbers' blue glue and you put it on the flywheel bolt threads. If you don't, then oil can seep past the bolts and will ruin your clutch disc.

Manual swaps are something I know very little about personally (being an auto person and a B-grade driver at that). Learning as I go!

 

[gassed250]

Yes computer needs changing if you want it to run 100% sweet

Im not fully sure why it need changing but it has something to do with the engine surging or holding revs between changes

I know who can answer this


***********************CALLING SELWONK************************

 

[xctasy]

The reason is simple. Manuals run a mild initail advance with an aggressive advance after 2500 rpm. Autos run an aggressive intial advance, with less past 2500 rpm. Thats why XE Falcons ran seven differnet ignitions systems depending on wieght, fuel sysatem, diff and what state they went to. When the EEC4 came out, Ford ran an EST system, and its the EST that governs the amount of advance the iengine sees.

Ford OZ optimised each one, and it will suffer idle or knocking if you use the wrong computer.

Generally, Running an auto computer on a manual is okay, although it will have issues with high kerb idle and you loose some fuel economy because the advance ramp is more conservative when cruising.

The manual computer runs an aggressive spark ramp, and if you run a manual, it will pink its head off.

I've got a bunch of freinds who have automatics conversions to there VK Holden 3.3's with electronic spark control. Cars run shoking if they were a 5-speed, because there is way too much advance.

My old Cortina TD ran a 2.0 with C3 auto. Engine blew up, added a fully rebuilt 4-speed TC Cortina GT engine from a wreck. It pre-ignited so badly that we had to wind the intial advance from 6 down to 3 just to allow it to operate around town without knocking all the time.