Where to start???

[Anonymous]

OK,

I have been reading and obviously there are many different options as to how I could want to go with my 200. But since I am completely new to this motor and actually anything smaller then a V8, I feel like a fish out of water when looking through these threads...

My new toy came with a stock 40 y/o 162K mile 200 I6, and I can't leave well enough alone. The original plan for the car was to swap in a decent V8 but after looking around this site it looks like the I6 has potential to be a fun project. But where do I start???

I know there are guys running heads, cam, headers, and electronic ignitions. But I have no idea what works and what doesn't, what cam is too big or what would be no better then stock, etc...

I guess I should start slowly and get the stock motor tuned and running right, but in doing so I need to rebuild the carb, is it worth doing so or swapping a 2v carb on a stock motor?

I have been reading about these new heads and intakes that are being build by Classic Inlines, now they look like great ideas...

TOO MANY CHOICES, and not enough knowledge...

 

[ludwig]

The very first thing to do is tune it to spec with a timing light and vaccuum guage. Get the idle at the right point and the vacuum as high as possible - at all odds, as high as possible over 18 lbs.
It's possible that the mark on your harmonic balancer has slipped over the years so you need to find DTC. There is a string about this on the index. Once you have done this, make a new mark on the balancer with a white pen or some other visible marker. Then tune to spec. Then you can fool with fuel mix to get the vaccuum up over the level at your best tuning.

At that point, you want to upgrade the ignition to some form of electronic ignition. The fave here for price and durability is the Duraspark II. The other choices are the DUI from (FordSix) Classics Inline Products from this website. This is the most expensive but probably the best choice for ultimate high-end performance and every unit sold goes to support the fellow that makes this site possible. The cheapest is the Pertronix with a new coil. Many dislike the Ptrx II. I have it and the coil and they have never let me down.
If you want an immediate bump, use the Pertronix I and a good coil. You will notice immediate improvement in starts, idle quality and gas milage. You will have to retune with an electronic ignition back to spec. But this is a good thing.

Next, get the Falcon Performance Handbook sold here. It will answer most of your questions about tiered improvements. It will also give you really good information about better performance. There are many improvements and they are a lot of fun to do because almost nothing is off the shelf but all are immanently doable.

Have fun.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy John:

And welcome to The Forum. My best advice is to tune and assess what you have. I am assuming the car is a '67 Mustang that is stock OEM? Is that true? Does the car have an auto trans for a manual?

Start with a good ignition tune-up- taking care to check the vacuum connection from the carb to the distributor.

Next comes the carb. IF it has not been rebuilt in a couple of years that is next. Rebuilding the Autolite 1100 is not difficult. The kit cost around $20. Add a can of carb cleaner and compressed air, some time and a clean, well lite workplace and you're in business. The directions in the carb kit are fairly easy to follow to get you in the ball park.

While you're doing these tasks, continue refining your goals for this car. Include your budget, in time and money. Once you have decided what you want, we can help you with advice and suggestions.

Most of all, enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the quick responces... Yes this is the 67 Mustang in my sig, it has a C4 tranny, and is a fully stock car from what I can tell...

Thanks for the heads up on the books to look into, and the tips given so far. At least I know of a few things to start looking into without getting overwhelmed...

Thanks again.

 

[matt1967]

if it's really 162k miles, rebuild it, add on a later head ( D7, D8, D9 or E0 ) shave the head to 52cc's ( 10cc's less ) add flat tops 0 deck the block, and you should have 9.5:1 compression, or in that ballpark. add a direct mount 2bbl carb or EFI and headders.

 

[rbohm]

8) one thing to understand(you would be surprised at how many people dont) is that when building an engine, the basics are the same regardless of displacement or number of cylinders. the first thing is to decide what you want this engine to do, and what rpm range you are going to spend most of your time in. you then pick components that work in that rpm range.

that said, you have already realized that there are subtle differences that need to be addressed. you still pick a cam that works in the rpm range you want, but with heads in this case you want as much airflow as you can get as the stock heads are rather restrictive. the 250 or late model 200 head for instance has a larger intake log than earlier heads and will help gain power.

a header is also a good idea to improve exhaust flow.