xk-xp compared to xr-xy diff length

xr van

New member
gday guys,

been looking through my factory workshop manuals for the xr and xm and i cannot find any information through these books on the specific diff lenghts for an xm falcon and an xr-xy falcon diff length.

it would be great if anyone could give me the mesurements for these as i am considering putting an xr diff under an xm ute with r13 185 65's.

thanks for your help fellas.

mark
 
Won't fit. They're wider by some, and the spring pads don't line up.

Shortest axle in an XR-XB is about equal to the longest axle in an XK-XP.

Narrowing is not that hard, but I would personally suggest you buy new saddles from Moroso or similar (not locally, but from the US, where they're $24/pr instead of $120).

What XK-XP measurements do you want?
 
xr van":3fn4vgs4 said:
gday guys,

been looking through my factory workshop manuals for the xr and xm and i cannot find any information through these books on the specific diff lenghts for an xm falcon and an xr-xy falcon diff length.

it would be great if anyone could give me the mesurements for these as i am considering putting an xr diff under an xm ute with r13 185 65's.

thanks for your help fellas.

mark

Spring perches are around 1.5" wider on the post XP and the hub plates are even further apart. So regardless of what the actual measurements are, you'll be getting it cut down to suit, even if you try using big offset wheels (refer to your local state laws regarding maximum increased track). Talking to some of the mustang guys, they are just opting for the cutdown AU rearend... same effort, better metallurgy
 
i dont mind having to relocate spring saddles
i am just abit short on funds to be shortening axels and housing

i am not sure if this will work but if i do relocate the spring saddles to the xk-xp position and run the standard xr-xy length diff it should squeeze up there. i believe it will be 3 inches wider overall, that is 1.5 each side.

i haven't test fitted anything yet but i am thinking that r13 185 65 are a very samll tyre and should fit under the guard of an xm ute that is standard height reasonably easily for now until i get enough $$$ to shorten the diff and reset the rear spring for a 2 inch lower profile.

any suggestions?
 
any suggestions?
Yeah, it won't fit.

With a stock diff and 185s (Bridgestones "Wide 70s") it scuffed the inside lip of the arches.

I've no vested interest in telling you this, other than to save you some grief. If you're patient, handy and can stick weld, the only thing you may have to outsource is one axle shortening.
 
thanks addo
would you have any idea on what it would cost to have the axles shortened
i think i could have a go at the housing.

i have a stick and a mig and am ok with both
 
Have to stick or TIG weld; forget about MIG except for positioning tacks.

Try calling a diff place about the cutting/resplining - it's only the long XR axle that needs it. Jeff (A7M) had a reason to warn against fitting the resplined axles, but not sure what it was.
 
Look for an 8 Inch out of a US Comet. They will Bolt up and save you the hassle of narrowing a diff. I got mine from Geelong Differential services many many years ago. Any good diff shop should be able to tell you what will or will not fit under your XP.
 
thanks cool23

i gave him a call

seemed like a great bloke

centura diff set up to xm lenght with all handbrake cables ready to bolt in
3.01 ratio 4 pinion bw
all parts supplied by him

$1100

does this sound ok?

edit: also apparently these are 28 spline axles
does this sound right
are these the strongest.
 
Now for the snags.

Stud size is different (smaller) - diff works need to re-stud.

Brakes are 9½" or something - not so easy to get bits for.

Centre boss is larger than XK-XB wheel centre hole.

:?

Centura diff is about ½" wider overall than a Falcon diff. The Falcon brake backplates are offset slightly more inwards, so changing to Falcon drums (or discs) means you can move the wheel bearing shoulder about ¼" each side.

You already have a later Falcon diff drained of oil, right? The brake flanges are pressed on, then welded. Remove the axles and backing plates, then stuff a good wad of clean rags into each tube. Carefully sawing through the weld at the flange end, then grinding, will allow recycling of the brake flanges. You can do this by hand, over a couple of cold ones. Measure, check and then cut the tubes to the new length, allowing for the part you won't see. File a little chamfer on the cut end.

New spring pads are easily bought off the internet, as I mentioned before. All XR-on except commercials, have the oversized oval hole in the spring pad - you don't realy want that so hence the need for new pads.

All the unwanted stuff can be trimmed off the donor diff with an oxy or grinder. Takes a little while (couple of hours), but your evenings and Sundays are free, right? Grind to a hair proud and hand file along the tubes to finish. Avoid excessive spot heating whilst cutting/grinding, by moving the disc around various areas.

Now see how much the diff guy will charge to position and weld the new pads, reattach the flanges, and press the diff straight.

I have an ongoing issue with subcontractors. They often like to do things their way, which is the way that suits them the most. However, it may well not be the best way for you.

Caveat emptor.
 
As Addo said. Just beware and do not 'just' try the place I suggested as that is only a suggestion, shop around. Surely you can find a diff shop closer to you. :D Good Luck.
 
They might do good work and be excellent value - but one wants to get what one needs, not what suits the subbie! Below is what happens when you let them (subbies) do their thing without adequate supervision. :x

bricklayer1aaw6.jpg
 
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