weber problems

Patrick66

Famous Member
i've got a 3x1 setup with weber 34's, 1 ICH and 2 ICT's.

i set them up on the intake, and started the car. after about 20 seconds the area was very smokey, not oil or coolant, but gasoline. my wideband was reading 10.18 (max rich). I've removed the ICT's and just have the ICH in the center, the symptoms are the same. the ict's are new, but the ICH was an eBay find, i put a rebuild kit in it when i got it and i have stepped the jetting down from a 170 to a 155 main trying to lean out the mixture. I have checked the float level a dozen times and its set to weber's recommendations. I also have a fuel pressure regulator with a factory style pump set to 3 psi, i have tried 2.5 and 2 psi, nothing has worked.

any ideas or suggestions? the car is supposed to go the the body shop next week, so i really need to get it running, even if it is just on the one carb. thanks in advance.
 
the float needle and seat could be sticking or leaking by when closed(even after a rebuild). i cant remember if the float is hollow or solid.dont know if you can find a weight spec but you might try to get a float scale and weigh it the solid foam and hollow can lose bouantcey due to leaks or absorbtion.
 
Is this recent 3X1 conversion or complete engine build?


Could try each carb on the center position to see how each one performs individually. The different sizes shouldn't much matter for initial testing.

I test each 3X1 Holley carb candidate individually on a good running 63 170 Wagon, The Webers are supposed to be less finicky than the Holley 3X1 setups.

The '61 has a built 250 with an Offy 3X1 bbl adapter. On initial startup-cam/run-in (272 Cam) , I blocked the outer flanges and used a Carter YF 1bbl. After initial road tests, added a 2bbl adapter to the center port and tried the H/W 5200 and then the 350CFM 7448 Holley 2300 series . Finally spent a long time getting three working vintage Holley 1904/s to run well on the Offy 3X1 setup.

I've heard CARBURETOR is French for - "Don't F$&K with it..."

8)
CARBSELECTIONSIDE.jpg
 
I'd be looking at the needle and seat as well. If you know the pressure is correct, then the fuel has to be pushing by somehow and that is the only reasonable way. While the car is running, can you look down the carb and see a nice spray or is it pouring out like crazy?
 
Do what powerband says and put a known good single on the center and properly break in the cam. Alot of cams get killed in the first few minutes because of issues with getting the engine to run long enough without problems to break in the cam. Extended cranking and starting and stopping is BAD for an engine that hasn't been broken in.
 
I had an even worse condition with my 1 bbl setup on the 65. I had rebuilt the carb following the directions carefully since I am carb challenged. Couldn't get the thing to stop puking fuel. finally pulled the carb and took it to a shop that knows their stuff. The mechanic found that the NEW needle and seat form the kit was not closiing off when the bowl was full, hence the puking. You might be having the same issue on a lesser scale. Try what the others have said, one known good carb in the center and see if things smooth out. If that works, recheck the needle and seat for TINY imperfections like burring or out of round holes etc. Good luck.
 
thanks for all the replies!

powerband":2yyy2ohh said:
Is this recent 3X1 conversion or complete engine build?


Could try each carb on the center position to see how each one performs individually. The different sizes shouldn't much matter for initial testing.


The '61 has a built 250 with an Offy 3X1 bbl adapter. On initial startup-cam/run-in (272 Cam) , I blocked the outer flanges and used a Carter YF 1bbl.

this has been a complete engine build, i finished it a couple months ago, but got frustrated with the carb problems and sort of let it sit in the garage. I am also running in a brand new camshaft, which further complicates things. all 3 are the same size, the problem is that the body has to be modified slightly to fit the center flange (just by enlarging the mounting holes a little), and neither of the ICT's will fit, but i guess i could try it.


quickersix64":2yyy2ohh said:
the float needle and seat could be sticking or leaking by when closed(even after a rebuild). i cant remember if the float is hollow or solid.dont know if you can find a weight spec but you might try to get a float scale and weigh it the solid foam and hollow can lose bouantcey due to leaks or absorbtion.

theyre hollow, and from all the responses, it looks like ill be checking out the needle and seat. thanks guys.
 
HI
I just kind of skimed the answers but what color is the smoke?? White, black or gray? it might not be the carbs... but something else.. white smoke woutld be water, black would be rich, gray would be oil..
good luck
tim
 
its gas, no oil or water being burnt, that was my first thought too.


ok, i've changed out the needle valve (i had some extras). im about to go start it up and see if it helps. i have the float level set to webers reccommendations, and a 170 main jet. i really wish i had a known good carb for the run in.
 
hmm for $200 you can get a new carb ,, with your jets it shuld be a little lean ,, im betting theres a crack inside the carb ware it can leak ,,
 
i thought that too, ive had it apart and didnt see anything, but it could be that i just couldnt see it. im going to take it to a carb place near my school, to see what they say. ill probably end up buying a new carburetor, after all i did get this one from ebay, and the other one that i got from the same guy leaked from around the shaft.
 
i only say new is i have had to replace 2 of mine in the spring of last year , i got to say its about the only carb a have not ben able to workon n work ,, i had 2 go n i rebilt them 2x my self then gave them to a guy over here that doz carbs all the time n they still would not pump gas ,, after about 100 bucks in kits i just got 2 new n all was fine ,, i have around 80k on this set up n last spring was realy the first time i had a prob with them
 
Do you need a pressure regulator for the ICH carbs using a regular fuel pump. I'm going to be running the same 3 weber offy setup?

Gene
 
thanks junk-falcon, im putting in the order for a new one tommorow. i cant wait for the car to be running right! :LOL:

Gene, yes you need a regulator. i have mine set for 3psi, thats the setting i kept seeing reccomended for these carbs.
 
Patrick,

Thanks, I knew the two barrels needed one but wasn't sure about the one barrels. Any recommendations on a regulator to use.

Gene
 
i have a spectre, i got it from jegs, but i cant comment on how well it works because of the problems ive been having. im sure its not the cause, but i just havent had any time to play with it or have my car running correctly.

its adjustable from 1-5psi.
 
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