Clifford Performance Headers

Hey I'm looking to purchase the Clifford Performance headers for my 67 I6. Can anyone tell me if it requires me to modify the throttle linkage? If it does, do ya'll recommend modifying it, if so how to do it, or upgrading to a cable throttle?

Thanks for the help. My 67 Mustang is currently in the shop for paint, I have the engine out and am planning to do the headers and put a t5 on it. I already have the DSII installed.

Check with Does10s on headers from classic inlines. nocancr@msn.com
Another choice is the Hookers long tube headers.
You said you already have a DS11 distributor. If you install it out of the box you are making a big mistake.
The DS11 needs to be properly calibrated to your engine's specs.
I can help you just contact me.

a pic of the headers held up next to the exh. ports would help me answ ur Q as I am not familiar w/the problems generated w/that specific model.
Is that possible (I think U can post pic now with out a certain number of posts used to be 25 I think but we lost our founder & there's been some changes here @ site as well as store).
Does 10s (a member here) is closing down the founder's store but I just got a header from there (Classic Inlines). As the last post states, if U have not purchased the Clifford CI has them & I am more familiar w/that product.
Let's C what others have to say - we seem to have folks who've used Clifford's as well...

you have to bentdthe z-bar from the gas pedal to clear the pipes. Like this:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74166

Otherwise, you could use a cable throttle.

krbostic89":56rc4bxt said:

Hey I'm looking to purchase the Clifford Performance headers for my 67 I6. Can anyone tell me if it requires me to modify the throttle linkage? If it does, do ya'll recommend modifying it, if so how to do it, or upgrading to a cable throttle?

Thanks for the help. My 67 Mustang is currently in the shop for paint, I have the engine out and am planning to do the headers and put a t5 on it. I already have the DSII installed.

Click to expand...

I have the Classic Inlines Header on my '66 coupe. No modification needed to the throttle linkage rod, just had to adjust the adjustable connector from the rod to the carb a little to make it clear. The header clears everything well.

thanks,
we'll C if they even FIT the bronk
mine's OE (I assume) cable (the 170's YF). Haven't figured the RBS (4 the 250) yet.
Glad they have those "spring bolts". May need them 2get round the frame.

Thanks for all the replys, looks like I'm hoping for the classic in lines one to be available. I will also be contacting about recurving the dsii.

krbostic89":3ulwqmr6 said:

...will also be contacting about recurving the dsii.

Click to expand...

2 or 3 guys on here can do a bang up job

One of the first upgrades I did back in '97 was to add Clifford headers to my '65. Here is what I found:

1) I did have to bend the throttle rod to get the full movement on the carb throttle. I also put a slight "dimple" in one of the header tubes too for clearance. It's not a big deal really.
2) National Parts Depot sells an adjustable throttle link that helps if the link length needs to be changed.
3) The collector gasket that came with the header was a POS. It was a cheap compressed fiber material that lasted 2-3 seasons.
4) Buy a good quality header flange gasket. I think the size is 2-1/2" or something close, but it is a standard size.
5) The choke heater tube will have to be reconfigured if you're swapping from an OEM iron manifold to the header. I found that a 1/4" OD copper tube and matching ferrule and nut from a compression fitting could be used on my Holley 1940 carb inlet. You will need to re-use or install some insulation on the tube near the carb. The engine fan creates too much flow across the tube and cools down the inlet air. This makes the choke stay on longer.
6) The collector flange hit the idler arm where is bolts to the "frame". The resulting vibration thru the car was awful! I had to take the idler arm off and grind down some clearance between the two attaching bolts. I don't know if the header is too wide OR the "frame rails" have move inward too much.
7) Use stainless steel bolts so it's easier to remove in the future. A little never-seize on them is a good idea too.

I have the clifford header. It works, but the initial turn on the primary pipes is very tight and it makes tightening the bolts extremely difficult. Over the years I've had to R&R the header a few times and it is always incredibly time intensive. For the record, i've installed headers on many different cars and this one is by far the most difficult. I would not recommend the clifford headers.

And as fate would have it, one day after writing the above post my head blew a freeze plug which is situated, you guessed it, right under the exhaust manifold. So, yay! I get to R&R it one more time. If CI where still around I would immediately order a header...

Does10s stil has a few Stainless steel headers. Not sure how many, but I have one on the way.

falcon fanatic":31gym0vf said:

And as fate would have it, one day after writing the above post my head blew a freeze plug which is situated, you guessed it, right under the exhaust manifold. So, yay! I get to R&R it one more time. If CI where still around I would immediately order a header...

Click to expand...

What kind of freeze plug is it? If it's steel one you could try some brass ones I think there would be less electrolysis. I went to them in most of my personal stuff that I keep a long time has saved me a lot of time and the grief of not having to replace them again in 3 to 5 years. Good luck

Freeze plugs replaced, all good now.