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Noob to nitrous

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64-5mustang
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Noob to nitrous

Post #1 by 64-5mustang » Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:02 pm

As someone that has never touched nitrous. What would I need to do for a mild nitrous build and make it work right. Thanks for your time and help.

pmuller9
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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #2 by pmuller9 » Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:12 pm

A Tri power set with nitrous under each carb will give you better distribution.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=75066&hilit=nitrous

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rbohm
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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #3 by rbohm » Fri Dec 22, 2017 11:28 am

i have never been a fan of chemical supercharging, too many issues to deal with imo. that said pmuller9 has it right. you have to be careful of nitrous, make sure the filters and spray nozzles are kept clean, that fuel pressure is kept in the proper range, and that you dont try to make too much power with the nitrous. you also have to understand that a 75 horse shot of nitrous, wont give you 75 more horsepower, but it gets close.
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64 200 ranchero
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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #4 by 64 200 ranchero » Sun Dec 24, 2017 12:40 pm

Definitely use forged Pistons if you are going over a 50 hp shot! My cast Pistons didn't last long at a 90 shot. I ended up cracking #6 through the oil passages. I ended up getting some custom JE forged Pistons
60 ford ranchero daily driver. 200 tri power, modified c4 trans, ds2 distributor, msd programable 6al2, weber ict's, 8" rear end with full spool, 3.40 gears, 245 tires, CI dual out header, Dynomax muffler, 114hp shot wet nitrous kit. JE Forged pistons, 280 110lc cam, around 11-1 compression.

Stonebreaker
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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #5 by Stonebreaker » Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:16 am

#1 thing for nitrous is to realize that nitrous is the most expensive type of forced induction. Not in hardware, but in cost over time. An 80 cubic foot cylinder of nitrous will only last you a couple of minutes more or less, depending on how big your shot is. Far cheaper to go with a supercharger or turbo. I know, you're saying to yourself, "I'll only use it occasionally," :mrgreen: but it gets addictive real fast.

However, if you still want to go that route, you need the following:
1) upgraded fuel system. Nothing cracks pistons faster than going lean on nitrous. This includes a Hobbes switch to automatically cut the nitrous if fuel pressure drops below a minimum safety level.
2) Window switch. A window switch automatically turns the nitrous on and off within a given rpm range. If you turn the nitrous on too low in the rpm range, you will hurt your motor. If you leave it running during shifts, you will hurt your transmission. So having a gizmo to do that for you will save you many engine parts.
3) I would think about drilling and tapping each intake runner just where it enters the head for a nitrous/fuel injector. It's not absolutely necessary, but it would ensure the fuel distribution would be even. When using a plate system, some manifolds have a tendency to separate the gas from the nitrous and send them down different intake runners, causing some cylinders to go lean. The injectors are more expensive but they ensure that doesn't happen.

When I installed the nitrous on my impala twenty years ago, the above system cost me about $1500, which was about half of what a basic turbo or supercharger setup cost at the time. But at $40 a pop to fill the nitrous bottle, the total cost passed the turbo system pretty quick. I have no idea what a system would cost these days, but the one thing you DO NOT do is cheap out on a nitrous setup.

66falconwagon
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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #6 by 66falconwagon » Fri Aug 10, 2018 12:42 pm

Stonebreaker wrote:#1 thing for nitrous is to realize that nitrous is the most expensive type of forced induction. Not in hardware, but in cost over time. An 80 cubic foot cylinder of nitrous will only last you a couple of minutes more or less, depending on how big your shot is. Far cheaper to go with a supercharger or turbo. I know, you're saying to yourself, "I'll only use it occasionally," :mrgreen: but it gets addictive real fast.

However, if you still want to go that route, you need the following:
1) upgraded fuel system. Nothing cracks pistons faster than going lean on nitrous. This includes a Hobbes switch to automatically cut the nitrous if fuel pressure drops below a minimum safety level.
2) Window switch. A window switch automatically turns the nitrous on and off within a given rpm range. If you turn the nitrous on too low in the rpm range, you will hurt your motor. If you leave it running during shifts, you will hurt your transmission. So having a gizmo to do that for you will save you many engine parts.
3) I would think about drilling and tapping each intake runner just where it enters the head for a nitrous/fuel injector. It's not absolutely necessary, but it would ensure the fuel distribution would be even. When using a plate system, some manifolds have a tendency to separate the gas from the nitrous and send them down different intake runners, causing some cylinders to go lean. The injectors are more expensive but they ensure that doesn't happen.

When I installed the nitrous on my impala twenty years ago, the above system cost me about $1500, which was about half of what a basic turbo or supercharger setup cost at the time. But at $40 a pop to fill the nitrous bottle, the total cost passed the turbo system pretty quick. I have no idea what a system would cost these days, but the one thing you DO NOT do is cheap out on a nitrous setup.


Another noob here
You recommend drilling into the air intake?

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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #7 by thatblue_67stang » Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:12 pm

66falconwagon wrote:
Stonebreaker wrote:#1 thing for nitrous is to realize that nitrous is the most expensive type of forced induction. Not in hardware, but in cost over time. An 80 cubic foot cylinder of nitrous will only last you a couple of minutes more or less, depending on how big your shot is. Far cheaper to go with a supercharger or turbo. I know, you're saying to yourself, "I'll only use it occasionally," :mrgreen: but it gets addictive real fast.

However, if you still want to go that route, you need the following:
1) upgraded fuel system. Nothing cracks pistons faster than going lean on nitrous. This includes a Hobbes switch to automatically cut the nitrous if fuel pressure drops below a minimum safety level.
2) Window switch. A window switch automatically turns the nitrous on and off within a given rpm range. If you turn the nitrous on too low in the rpm range, you will hurt your motor. If you leave it running during shifts, you will hurt your transmission. So having a gizmo to do that for you will save you many engine parts.
3) I would think about drilling and tapping each intake runner just where it enters the head for a nitrous/fuel injector. It's not absolutely necessary, but it would ensure the fuel distribution would be even. When using a plate system, some manifolds have a tendency to separate the gas from the nitrous and send them down different intake runners, causing some cylinders to go lean. The injectors are more expensive but they ensure that doesn't happen.

When I installed the nitrous on my impala twenty years ago, the above system cost me about $1500, which was about half of what a basic turbo or supercharger setup cost at the time. But at $40 a pop to fill the nitrous bottle, the total cost passed the turbo system pretty quick. I have no idea what a system would cost these days, but the one thing you DO NOT do is cheap out on a nitrous setup.


Another noob here
You recommend drilling into the air intake?


idk anything about nitrous but he is talking about the runners connected to the manifold. there should be six obviously and you drill into each one individually so you should have 6 nozzles.
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64 200 ranchero
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Re: Noob to nitrous

Post #8 by 64 200 ranchero » Fri Oct 05, 2018 1:09 pm

You don't need to drill the runners if you have a tri-power setup. If you have one, you can build spacers to fit the nitrous nozzles or you can drill and tap into the office directly if you are using one. I have 3 nozzles directly installed on to my offy, one at each port, another member with a 64 falcon built 3 spacers with nozzles. I didn't tap into the head because I didn't want to remove it and I didn't want to risk messing up the head since I put a lot of money into it. I'm running a 90 shot with my 3 nozzle set up with no issue since switching to forged Pistons.
60 ford ranchero daily driver. 200 tri power, modified c4 trans, ds2 distributor, msd programable 6al2, weber ict's, 8" rear end with full spool, 3.40 gears, 245 tires, CI dual out header, Dynomax muffler, 114hp shot wet nitrous kit. JE Forged pistons, 280 110lc cam, around 11-1 compression.

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