64-5mustang
Well-known member
As someone that has never touched nitrous. What would I need to do for a mild nitrous build and make it work right. Thanks for your time and help.
Stonebreaker":jsqn5zpb said:#1 thing for nitrous is to realize that nitrous is the most expensive type of forced induction. Not in hardware, but in cost over time. An 80 cubic foot cylinder of nitrous will only last you a couple of minutes more or less, depending on how big your shot is. Far cheaper to go with a supercharger or turbo. I know, you're saying to yourself, "I'll only use it occasionally," :mrgreen: but it gets addictive real fast.
However, if you still want to go that route, you need the following:
1) upgraded fuel system. Nothing cracks pistons faster than going lean on nitrous. This includes a Hobbes switch to automatically cut the nitrous if fuel pressure drops below a minimum safety level.
2) Window switch. A window switch automatically turns the nitrous on and off within a given rpm range. If you turn the nitrous on too low in the rpm range, you will hurt your motor. If you leave it running during shifts, you will hurt your transmission. So having a gizmo to do that for you will save you many engine parts.
3) I would think about drilling and tapping each intake runner just where it enters the head for a nitrous/fuel injector. It's not absolutely necessary, but it would ensure the fuel distribution would be even. When using a plate system, some manifolds have a tendency to separate the gas from the nitrous and send them down different intake runners, causing some cylinders to go lean. The injectors are more expensive but they ensure that doesn't happen.
When I installed the nitrous on my impala twenty years ago, the above system cost me about $1500, which was about half of what a basic turbo or supercharger setup cost at the time. But at $40 a pop to fill the nitrous bottle, the total cost passed the turbo system pretty quick. I have no idea what a system would cost these days, but the one thing you DO NOT do is cheap out on a nitrous setup.
66falconwagon":ss0t1jnp said:Stonebreaker":ss0t1jnp said:#1 thing for nitrous is to realize that nitrous is the most expensive type of forced induction. Not in hardware, but in cost over time. An 80 cubic foot cylinder of nitrous will only last you a couple of minutes more or less, depending on how big your shot is. Far cheaper to go with a supercharger or turbo. I know, you're saying to yourself, "I'll only use it occasionally," :mrgreen: but it gets addictive real fast.
However, if you still want to go that route, you need the following:
1) upgraded fuel system. Nothing cracks pistons faster than going lean on nitrous. This includes a Hobbes switch to automatically cut the nitrous if fuel pressure drops below a minimum safety level.
2) Window switch. A window switch automatically turns the nitrous on and off within a given rpm range. If you turn the nitrous on too low in the rpm range, you will hurt your motor. If you leave it running during shifts, you will hurt your transmission. So having a gizmo to do that for you will save you many engine parts.
3) I would think about drilling and tapping each intake runner just where it enters the head for a nitrous/fuel injector. It's not absolutely necessary, but it would ensure the fuel distribution would be even. When using a plate system, some manifolds have a tendency to separate the gas from the nitrous and send them down different intake runners, causing some cylinders to go lean. The injectors are more expensive but they ensure that doesn't happen.
When I installed the nitrous on my impala twenty years ago, the above system cost me about $1500, which was about half of what a basic turbo or supercharger setup cost at the time. But at $40 a pop to fill the nitrous bottle, the total cost passed the turbo system pretty quick. I have no idea what a system would cost these days, but the one thing you DO NOT do is cheap out on a nitrous setup.
Another noob here
You recommend drilling into the air intake?