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Starter Arcing

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StarDiero75
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Location: Bremerton, WA

Starter Arcing

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 3:25 am

Howdy guys,

I just finished my engine swap and my starter keeps sparking at where the line to it goes. The starter is new (rebuilt) so i dont see whats wrong with it. Didnt have the issue before. The bell, block plate, and starter are the same, so nothing changed

Also, it runs guys!!

Before:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HVj3TJcV2LNVgQfd6

After:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a5N6o2ZRsjnSmSGC9
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

frozenrabbit
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #2 by frozenrabbit » Tue Jul 17, 2018 12:10 pm

You could have a crushed or broken insulator at the terminal.

'New' and 'rebuilt' doesn't mean much these days

ags290
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Location: Mansfield Texas

Re: Starter Arcing

Post #3 by ags290 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 12:29 pm

Are you sure that all of your grounds are in place?
Kevin
Early 1965 Mustang with a 170

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StarDiero75
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Location: Bremerton, WA

Re: Starter Arcing

Post #4 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 1:10 pm

ags290 wrote:Are you sure that all of your grounds are in place?

It is snugged up tight to the block. The nagative for the battery is snug on both the block and battery. The alternator ground is snug. The coil ground is snug.

Could it just be a crap Starter?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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bubba22349
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #5 by bubba22349 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 1:24 pm

If the starter has been removed repeatedly lately then it could be as simple as the starter stud nut backing off enough to be lose. Ie the stud on the starter for power cable from the solenoid. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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chad
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #6 by chad » Tue Jul 17, 2018 1:35 pm

motor grnded to frame'n firewall
those 2 'straps' crushed under the motor on install/left off
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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StarDiero75
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #7 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:09 pm

bubba22349 wrote:If the starter has been removed repeatedly lately then it could be as simple as the starter stud nut backing off enough to be lose. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Ive tightened both of those nuts on the starter and the bolts that hold it to the bell
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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StarDiero75
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Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:39 pm
Location: Bremerton, WA

Re: Starter Arcing

Post #8 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:10 pm

chad wrote:motor grnded to frame'n firewall
those 2 'straps' crushed under the motor on install/left off

What straps? Ive never had straps on the starter and never had this problem before. Could tge bell just be dirty or oily where jt contacts?
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

Re: Starter Arcing

Post #9 by chad » Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:56 pm

"...never had straps on the starter..."
again, Y the use of shop manual wuz suggested. I'm not good at all on ele systems 4 auto (can do a house OK) & am only thinkin bout how these old vehicles have 2 grnds...1 to frame, 1 to fire wall. Rubber (if done correctly) in engine towers/mounts isolates.
What I offer is not bible, only suggestions and thoughts. I C in the manuals to follow this procedure tho.
The technical is beyond me so I just mimic the correct.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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bubba22349
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #10 by bubba22349 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 4:21 pm

StarDiero75 wrote:
bubba22349 wrote:If the starter has been removed repeatedly lately then it could be as simple as the starter stud nut backing off enough to be lose. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:

Ive tightened both of those nuts on the starter and the bolts that hold it to the bell


Ok then it’s the insulator as “ frozenrabbit” said so get another starter if it’s got a warrantee still outerwise you will need to disassemble enough to get in and fix it. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Econoline
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #11 by Econoline » Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:00 am

When you say it's arching, where do you see it?
It ain't gonna fix itself

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StarDiero75
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #12 by StarDiero75 » Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:35 am

Econoline wrote:When you say it's arching, where do you see it?

Its right on the starter where the power line for it connects to it. Its fine for a split second, then a little bit of smoke, then it starts sparking like heck on it. Is that not arcing? I may be using the wrong term
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Econoline
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2013 8:37 pm
Location: Anacortes, WA

Re: Starter Arcing

Post #13 by Econoline » Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:33 am

Maybe the terminal or wire lug is somehow shorting to the starter frame at/near the terminal. I'd pull the wire from the starter and investigate. You'll be able to see where and maybe how it's arcing to ground from the black traces and melted steel and copper.
It ain't gonna fix itself

drag-200stang
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #14 by drag-200stang » Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:01 am

Sounds to me that the connection is dirty or not tight, maybe wrong nut...Take it apart and clean with scotch brite, tighten nut close to starter first then wire and tighten last nut.
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

mustang6
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Re: Starter Arcing

Post #15 by mustang6 » Wed Jul 18, 2018 1:41 pm

I agree likely a broken/compromised insulator. The stud itself has one nut that holds it tight to the insulator/case and if that gets loose then tightening the second nut that secures the battery cable can cause the stud to spin and possibly ground out inside the case. Overtightening can just crack/smash the insulator as well.
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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