All Small Six 200 I6 build Question

This relates to all small sixes

edans1

New member
Hello all, new to the forum and new to the inline 6 world.. so I bought a 66 Mustang Coupe - one owner, all original car, and my original plan was to V8 swap it BUT… the car is in pretty great shape for its age (not much rust and none in the floor, cowel or frame rails) and the motor runs decent for sitting as long as it did so I’ve been driving it. And, having quite a bit of fun with it. That said, I’m thinking I might just keep this thing all original and rebuild the 200 I6 and C4 tranny. That said, I’d like to get a little more performance out of it when rebuild it but have been researching and it’s very hit or miss with parts availability (shitty factory fuel delivery with the head) and some not so great stories about changing carbs and ignition.

With my limited knowledge and all over the place findings from trying to do research, should I just keep this thing stock with the exception of putting a header and dual exhaust? Or does anyone have any input on what I could do beyond that without creating a snowball of problems? I’d like to change the cam for something a bit sportier but assuming that creates issues with the stock carb.

Apologize for my ignorance on this but I’ve been trying to research and it’s all over the place on these motors due to the factory head setup.

Thanks in advance for any input you have to point me in a direction.
 
Hi, I would take a compression test and find out where you are at. If the compression is good plan the next step. Besides that, figure out what you have. Over time, it was common for heads to be exchanged, junkyard engine swaps, mismatched parts, etc. There is a lot of good info in the tech section and the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook is a great resource. Good luck
 
66 Coupe is on my wish list...
Definitely get the Handbook it will help you create a plan. Too get a little more performance lots of people do that with the stock log head so not really a concern. If you rebuild with a mild cam and some head work and bit larger carb you will be good even without headers. FYI and important is DSII ignition curved for your build specs. And from what I have read with great interest on this forum these guys can advise you how to mod your c4 for max performance. Lots of good mods and parts available to elevate your suspension to sports car handling. And get a 2 bowl m/c if you haven't already.
 
I would take a compression test and find out where you are at. If the compression is good plan the next step. Besides that, figure out what you have. Over time, it was common for heads to be exchanged, junkyard engine swaps, mismatched parts, etc.

The car is 1 owner and untouched. It was pulled out of a garage sitting for 20 years with boxes stacked on it. The old man that owned it never did anything to it. We changed all the fluids, put a new gas tank in it and some tires - still has the old hub caps. The motor fired up but it, and trans are leaking from the seals sitting for so long. It needs a freshen up even with decent compression.
 
The car is 1 owner and untouched. It was pulled out of a garage sitting for 20 years with boxes stacked on it. The old man that owned it never did anything to it. We changed all the fluids, put a new gas tank in it and some tires - still has the old hub caps. The motor fired up but it, and trans are leaking from the seals sitting for so long. It needs a freshen up even with decent compression.
Welcome! What a nice, rare find! Don't ruin it by putting in a V8. Get your 6 freshened up and give yourself some time with it and you'll love the six. Best of luck!
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the Ford Six forum edans1, since you mentioned thinking of swapping a V8 before I assume that you aren't opposed to modding the car some. It would be good if you describe what your goals are for the Mustang and a ball park amount of your budget for the project that way we can give you some good upgrades. There is such a wide amount of support for the Mustang chassis and brakes that part is really easy and there is also very good support for the 200 and 250 six'es that you could easily get V8 like performance out of both these six'es with the right combos of parts. Best of luck
 
What a nice find don't know why that never happens to me!
And remember a v8 swap also includes swapping the trans, drive line, rear axle, front suspension, radiator, motor mounts, new wheels, springs and probably some other stuff I forgot.
And I should have mentioned earlier getting a later head will be good as it will flow lots more. Start looking now as harder to find. 79-80 is good.
 
If your 66 is not a California emissions vehicle replace the distributor with a 1968 or newer with mechanical and vacuum advance. Replace the carburetor with a 1968+ or 1966 Calif. emissions non Load-O-Matic carb if you can find one. Your old carb can be converted but there is some bad info on it on the internet about this conversion. The vacuum port inside the carb needs to be redrilled a little higher so that there is no vacuum at idle. You plug the original vacuum port with GB weld then drill a new port above it. If you don't do this you may get full vacuum to the vacuum advance unless the carb is closed almost all the way at very slow idle. If you have a higher idle speed the vacuum advance will kick in. You could also connect the vacuum advance to full vacuum and keep your original carburetor after plugging the vacuum advance port.
You can also replace the exhaust manifold with a 1968 or newer that has a 2" out then you can install a 2" exhaust system.
 
If your 66 is not a California emissions vehicle replace the distributor with a 1968 or newer with mechanical and vacuum advance. Replace the carburetor with a 1968+ or 1966 Calif. emissions non Load-O-Matic carb if you can find one. Your old carb can be converted but there is some bad info on it on the internet about this conversion. The vacuum port inside the carb needs to be redrilled a little higher so that there is no vacuum at idle. You plug the original vacuum port with GB weld then drill a new port above it. If you don't do this you may get full vacuum to the vacuum advance unless the carb is closed almost all the way at very slow idle. If you have a higher idle speed the vacuum advance will kick in. You could also connect the vacuum advance to full vacuum and keep your original carburetor after plugging the vacuum advance port. You can also replace the exhaust manifold with a 1968 or newer that has a 2" out then you can install a 2" exhaust system.
If your 66 is not a California emissions vehicle replace the distributor with a 1968 or newer with mechanical and vacuum advance. Replace the carburetor with a 1968+ or 1966 Calif. emissions non Load-O-Matic carb if you can find one. Your old carb can be converted but there is some bad info on it on the internet about this conversion. The vacuum port inside the carb needs to be redrilled a little higher so that there is no vacuum at idle. You plug the original vacuum port with GB weld then drill a new port above it. If you don't do this you may get full vacuum to the vacuum advance unless the carb is closed almost all the way at very slow idle. If you have a higher idle speed the vacuum advance will kick in. You could also connect the vacuum advance to full vacuum and keep your original carburetor after plugging the vacuum advance port. You can also replace the exhaust manifold with a 1968 or newer that has a 2" out then you can install a 2" exhaust system.
 
Contact me i have several DS11's for your engine.
See my items in the small Ford Six for sale section of this forum. Bill wsa111
I can also convert your carburetor to ported vacuum.
 
If you get a newer dual advance non-Load-o-matic distributor you can still use your existing spark control valve 1100 carburetor without modifying it. Just run the distributor with intake manifold vacuum and plug the vacuum tap on the side of the carb. Done.
 
Back
Top