200 Rebuild

[My Project - Her 65]

Hello all –
I’m working on rebuilding an inline 200 for my wife’s 65 coupe. I picked this engine up a few weeks ago and have some time to do this right. My goal is to replace the 200 she is currently running with my rebuilt engine by spring. My intent is to build a reliable engine with some mild performance enhancements. I’ll be the first to admit I’m new to this and am still drinking through a fire hose, so please feel free to criticize my plans and offer your thoughts and suggestions.
I found an 80’s 250 cylinder head that is being shipped to me. Based on what I’ve read I wanted the larger valves, hardened seats, and large intake volume. I plan on modifying the intake log to accept the 2V 32/36 Weber and am leaning toward electric choke.
I have a neighbor who does engine work for a living who has offered to help with any of the work I want done. I’ll certainly have him do the log modification, cylinder boring, and mill work on the block and head to achieve the right CR for me.
I’m leaning toward a 264/264(274) Hydraulic CAM. The head I pulled has the adjustable rocker arms, which I assume are the 1.5 ratio. I’ve read a lot of posts recommending the 1.6 adjustable set from CI’s, but I’m not sure if I should just stick with what I’ve got and put the $375 to use elsewhere. I had anticipated finding non-adjustable rocker arms and was planning on upgrading, but when I found the adjustable rocker arms it changed the equation a bit.
I plan on springing for the dual roller timing chain and gear set. I’ll likely purchase the master rebuild kit from CIs.
I’m considering cast flat top pistons. I’d love to get a set of forged ones (who wouldn’t?), but can’t justify the added expense for what is basically going to be a mild performance daily driver.
I ordered the DUI ignition from CI last week and will install that on the current engine.
The spare engine I picked up last week came with hooker headers and dual exhaust pipes with blue streak glass packs. I plan on cleaning these up and mounting them as well, but am a bit concerned with what the noise level might be. One question in this area: exhaust port divider; what are the thoughts here? My falcon performance manual recommends them, but the tech article on CI suggests the HP gains might not really be there.
Long term I’d like to upgrade the rear end and swap the three speed out with a T5, but those will likely have to wait some time.
I know I didn’t cover everything here, but that’s the bulk of what I’ve got planned for now.
Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions.
Cliff

 

[Gene Fiore]

Sounds like a great plan...you definately do not need the expense of forged pistons on a daily driver. Cast pistons will do the job nicely. The 264 cam is a good choice for a mild street motor and unless you are going for all out performance you really don't need the 1.6 rockers ( IMHO ) or the port divider. Make sure you have the engine balanced. I would spend some of that cash savings and get those hooker headers ceramic coated. The look really good and keep underhood temps down as well. Good luck with the build.

 

[rocklord]

See nothing wrong with what you are planning either.

While you're having the head work done, consider some minor porting; concentrate on the intake side with just some cleanup on the exhaust port. The Falcon Performance Handbook gives some pointers on where to do the work on the ports.

2x on the ceramic coating on the headers.

 

[CobraSix]

You seem to have a good plan.

Think you'll love the cam. With the cam upgrade, I don't see much need to spend the money on the 1.6 rockers. Plus, if the 250 head has been milled or the block decked, you can end up with clearance problems with the valves and pistons. So, until you get the head and can CC the chambers, hold off on the rocker upgrade. That cam will net you about 30% more lift which alone can solve many of the breathing issues of the log head.

3x the ceramic coating. Worth every penny. Keeps those headers looking great, and helps move the head out of the engine bay, which is always good.

I would have passed on the DUI for now, but that's just personal preference. It's a good ignition, but a duraspark 2 can be had for much cheaper for a daily driver that isn't likely to see as much gain from the DUI.

As said, don't bother with the forged pistons. I'm up to 147 RWHP with stock cast pistons. No problems so long as you have the ignition in good shape and carb that runs well.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the port divider. I've run with and with out it on the same engine. Honestly, couldn't tell the difference. To me, it's just a part that can break free and rattle (which is why I yanked mine out).

With the things you are adding, the stock read end should hold up fine. Definitely consider the T5 sooner. Having a syncronized 1st gear is so nice. If you take your time, it can be done cheaply. with those upgrades, a 4 cylinder T5 will fit the bill nicely and can be had, usually rebuilt from ebay or craigslit, for under $500. The reason I recommend it, that it is probably the upgrade I felt gave me the most driving fun. When I was running a 1V carb, I upgraded the ignition, cam, and to the T5 transmission and honestly, it felt like a completely different car. The combination of the cam and T5 really woke up the engine and helped make it a fun combination, even if spare on raw HP.

BTW, love the screen name. That's how my wife views the 65. It's hers, I just get to work on it.

 

[rbohm]

8) i too see nothing wrong with you proposed engine build. for the street cast pistons are better than forged unless you are going to run a lot of boost pressure, and i dont see that happening.

1.6 rockers are nice to have, just remember to check the piston to valve clearance carefully if you mill the head more than about .040" when you compensate for the difference in thickness of the old style steel shim head gasket and the modern, and thicker, composite gasket.

the DUI ignition is also nice to have, and is quite reliable, but also expensive. it does have the advantage of being able to adjust the mechanical advance curve without disassembling the distributor.

 

[chad]

Welcome Cliff!
U go 4 it!
I usually add to the folks w/few posts a few on-line references, but it shows you've done your work.
Lotta very knowledgeable folk here.
Keep us informed as you go along...
(we love. love, love PIC!)

 

[My Project - Her 65]

Thanks for the quick responses and feedback. It’s nice to know I’m at least on the right track.
I think I will take all of your advice and get the headers ceramic coated.

I was looking through the local classified earlier and actually found a used T-5 transmission. The guy has it advertised as an “86-93 Mustang World class T-5 that needs to be rebuilt. All the parts are there and it will include the bell housing.” He’s asking $200 OBO. I’m tempted to spring for it but have never rebuilt a transmission. Some quick research earlier makes me think it’s within my capabilities.

Again, appreciate all the comments and suggestions and I will post some pics as soon as I can figure out how. I’ll try and get some posted within the next few days.
Cliff

 

[MPGmustang]

First.... WELCOME!!!!

a WC t-5 is usually for a v8, so the bell housing won't work with the i6 block. shops can ususally rebuild a t5 trans for $300 (I'm located in phx AZ) your current 3 spd bell housing will work just fine, you'll only need the trans-to-bell housing adaptor and the modified tranny braket, other wise what you already got will work perfectly. some people even go and spring for a positive stop shift kit, I don't know the benefits as I' havn't tried one yet, but I'm intrested as they claim the t-5 stay's smoother while shifting. $200 for a core trans is a good deal, pick it up asap before someone else does. (you'll want to run 3.2 or higher rear ratio gear with the v8 t-5, other wise you'll be starting in 2nd and have 2 over drives and never be able to use 5th gear) you might have to shorten your drive shaft. if so, and you have some room in front of your engine you can swap the engine mounts and should move the engine forward an inch (give or take some room) this will save you $$ until you'd like to drop in the rebuilt engine, then put the mounts back and get the shaft shrten properly... (just an option)

IMO stick wiht the single grind 264/264, my 264/274 110 loves to idle 1100 and kick down to 800 with the AC on, IMO little high... but it's what I got. I'm thinking it's due to the 'trick' the cam is putting on the engine by lowering the CR at idle and raising it in higher RPM. the single grind won't do this and should be that much more smoother, and still keep you in your seat. I agree with others, don't go for the higher ratio rockers, your score of adjustibles is awesome I'm actually looking for a set now (either higher ratio or stock is fine just want adjustibles).

IMO as a daily/town car ceramic coating isn't worth the extra cost, I don't think you'll get any HP benefit out of it, but I respect what others think and it's up to your desision on what route to take. BTW nice score on the headers

while getting the engine rebuilt, spring for a new cast iron oil pump, I've been reading about failing alum's oil pumps, and it seams the cast iron is holding up... but maybe i just keep finding the wrong threads, others can feel free to correct me.

I like the DUI due to simplicity, I wouldn't mind a DSII for cost but in my area piecing it out cost the same as the DUI, I just wasn't lucky in junk yards... and parts are more $$$ here at parts counters... (AZ)

I agree don't go with forged pistons, not worth the cost for a street machine, I'm told dished pistons are perfect for the quench and ?torque?... but again preference

stay away from the prot divider, it's probably going to come out in the future anyways...

electric choke is better than the auto choke from exhaust...

sounds like a great plan, I'm sure you'll really enjoy benefits this rebuild gives.

Good Luck!!
Richard

 

[My Project - Her 65]

Thanks Richard. I appreciate you taking the time to provide a detailed response.

On another note, I think I figured out how to post pics. Here goes: