223 Duraspark setup after conversion

m1e9r5c6

New member
Hey everyone. I have been reading about this conversion until my eyes burned out of my head and I have not come across solid info on setup after the fact. I would like to know a few things as I am set to get this conversion under way.
1) what initial timing are you running?
2) does everyone change the mechanical advance springs with the mr gasket 925D kit? If so, did you change one or both springs? Which spring?
3) How much mechanical advance do you have?
4) what rpm do you hit max total advance?
5) what plugs and gap are you running?
6) ported or manifold vacuum?
7) have you installed an adjustable vacuum advance and if so, what did you adjust it to?

FYI, I have a Clifford single Weber 38/38 and header so info particular to that setup would be of even more help. Thanks.
 
1. All engines are different and you need to find out what your engines likes. Sounds like you have a mostly stock motor so timing is going to start at stock base timing setting and tune from there. The engine should be in good condition with even compression, the valve lash set to factory spec with the engined warmed up good first thing. Make sure you have decent Ignition parts, wires, coil (Stock Motorcraft or better NAPA etc.), the plugs gapped to the new setting .044, cap, rotor, and a carburetor that are also in good condition. The carb will need to have the idle mixture, curb idle RPM reset again after ever thing is completed. Do you know how to do that?
2. Yes usally one spring the light one and adjust the other post by experimentation.
3. About 34 total degrees. This can take a long time to dial in by a timing light (having extra timing marks or some timing tape is helpful) and by trial and error you could get most of this and #2 done quickly by someone experienced with a Distribitor Mach. You can know the tune is about right if you get a light pink at a light throdle climbing a slight grade such as a freeway on ramp that would be the max advance if you not experance at this than you could back the timing off a degree or two at a time until the ping disappears.Also watch your engine temps closely for any signs of over heating.
4. 1800 to 2200 RPM.
5. Autolite Coppers with a .044 or .045 gap there are others that will cost quite a bit more and also last longer such as the Platinums.
6. Ported Vaccum.
7. Yes adjustable is better for tuning if you can get one. As much as the engine likes you need a good vacuum gauge to run engine at the highest vacuum at your steady state cruseing speed. A good tach will also be helpful. When you successfully compleated this upgrade you should gain you faster start ups, better economy (depending on how good the engine ran before and condistion of the old ignition system), much longer lasting tune ups, and better performance, best of luck.
 
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