All Small Six Carter RBS to replace YFA?

[Asa]

Friend was clearing out their garage of a bunch of stuff, I snagged a Carter RBS cause why not.
My YFA has a flat spot on initial WOT that I've been unable to tune out, changing the jets, the metering rod, any of it hasn't done me any good, so I was thinking about playing with this?

I know some limitations of the RBS, tuned for EGR, jet is pressed in and not removable, etc. Is it worth playing with this, or should I just throw it on eBay?

Came from a '73 Maverick with a 250 and an auto
I have a '67 Mustang with a 200 and T5

 

[bubba22349]

I have had several of the mid 1970's Maverick 250's with that Carter RBS Carb on them they worked very good and are a nice lower profile.

 

[Asa]

I assumed they work on a 250 just fine, I was more concerned with whether they'd work well on a 200 with no EGR
Sorry if that wasn't clear.

 

[TheFutura]

I assumed they work on a 250 just fine, I was more concerned with whether they'd work well on a 200 with no EGR
Sorry if that wasn't clear.

This is the exact match-up I have on an ‘82 Fairmont Futura, 3.3/200 automatic. The Carter RBS is from a ‘73 Maverick 250/C4. 1.75” throttle bore. A T5 would really wake mine up. With 2.73 gears and 225-60-15’s it pulled strong and reached an indicated 39 mph in Low, never laid over, and sounded good doing it. 65 in second was its previous top speed. I have owned 5 or 6 of these 200’s in various vehicles, and this one is the least slow of the bunch. It certainly helps that it has the biggest log head and electronic ignition, but I think it would help any 200.
The throttle cable, kick down, and air cleaner all fit.
I absolutely enjoy this community of all ages and experiences.
Mark.

 

[bubba22349]

I assumed they work on a 250 just fine, I was more concerned with whether they'd work well on a 200 with no EGR
Sorry if that wasn't clear.

Well yes and that was exactly what I was trying to say that a Carter RGB can work very well on the 200 Six too. If you have a 1968 or older Log Head on your Car than its not a bolt on and you will need to open up the Carb mounting hole in the early style Log Head to at least a 1 3/4 inch opening (or even larger to a 2 to 2 1/8 inch opening which is better still along with the radius'ing of the bottom of the Carb Hole opening from 1/8 to 5/16 of inch to help the AF Mix better turn into the Log). Or else you could make a simple Carb adapter plate that's funnel shaped to match up with the smaller hole of the early Log Heads and clear the Carbs larger Throttle Blade. Good luck on your Mustang

 

[78_200_C4]

I recently noticed new Carter RBS carbs being sold on ebay.
What I found interesting was the throttle linkage hook up.
It looks like the early mechanical linkage like the Autolite 1100 uses would connect to this carb.

 

[TheFutura]

The linkage at idle on the RBS is 1 1/4” above the bottom of the carburetor mating surface and the 1100 is 1/4” below the carb mating surface, but the throttle cable attaching fitting is in virtually the identical position fore and aft, and side to side.
Fun facts:
The RBS is 5” tall and the 1100 is 4 1/8”. It weighs 3 lbs with filter.
Air horn outside diameter of the 1100 is 2.230” and the RBS looks like 2.300”.
The stock 250 stamped steel air cleaner top and bottom with snorkel weighs just over 5 lbs. The stamped aluminum top and bottom from the ‘82 200/3.3, without snorkel, weighs a nick over 1.5 lbs.
Happy Friday!

 

[John Ha]

I recently noticed new Carter RBS carbs being sold on ebay.
What I found interesting was the throttle linkage hook up.
It looks like the early mechanical linkage like the Autolite 1100 uses would connect to this carb.

View attachment 11467

I just bought one of these (I have a 66 Mustang, 250 I6) from eBay. It was shipped from China and arrived yesterday. I'm using the stock I6 throttle linkage (the bent rod that goes into the engine compartment from the foot feed) and the RBS for the 1970 Mustang/Maverick/Comet is about the only RBS configuration I've found that works with that. I've not had a chance to put it on the car yet so I don't know how it will work - hopefully there won't be any drama involved.

 

[John Ha]

I just bought one of these (I have a 66 Mustang, 250 I6) from eBay. It was shipped from China and arrived yesterday. I'm using the stock I6 throttle linkage (the bent rod that goes into the engine compartment from the foot feed) and the RBS for the 1970 Mustang/Maverick/Comet is about the only RBS configuration I've found that works with that. I've not had a chance to put it on the car yet so I don't know how it will work - hopefully there won't be any drama involved.

DO NOT buy one of these. They are junk.

 

[jaan-e]

Why is it junk?

 

[John Ha]

Why is it junk?

I put it on the car. Engine cranked but would not fire. Checked the fuel inlet on the carb, found the needle was put in backwards (it came that way). Corrected it. Car still would not fire. Filled float bowl with fuel through vent. Car still would not fire. Removed the carb and put the "old" one back on. Looked in fuel inlet of new carb and saw the float tab was too low to be engaged by the needle. Tried to remove float bowl to correct that and check the float setting. Screws would not come out. Doesn't work + can't be fixed = junk.

 

[jaan-e]

I put it on the car. Engine cranked but would not fire. Checked the fuel inlet on the carb, found the needle was put in backwards (it came that way). Corrected it. Car still would not fire. Filled float bowl with fuel through vent. Car still would not fire. Removed the carb and put the "old" one back on. Looked in fuel inlet of new carb and saw the float tab was too low to be engaged by the needle. Tried to remove float bowl to correct that and check the float setting. Screws would not come out. Doesn't work + can't be fixed = junk.

 

[jaan-e]

Ok, so i thought you didn't like The carb as per se. Mine is working flawlesly, thats why i asked.. Good luck.

 

[78_200_C4]

I put it on the car. Engine cranked but would not fire. Checked the fuel inlet on the carb, found the needle was put in backwards (it came that way). Corrected it. Car still would not fire. Filled float bowl with fuel through vent. Car still would not fire. Removed the carb and put the "old" one back on. Looked in fuel inlet of new carb and saw the float tab was too low to be engaged by the needle. Tried to remove float bowl to correct that and check the float setting. Screws would not come out. Doesn't work + can't be fixed = junk.

That one being bad and you can't fix it does not make all of them bad. It's a good idea to take apart any new China made carb and check the assembly and adjustments. I have bought 4 China made Carter carbs all were good. It'd not hard to match them to a rebuild kit.

 

[chad]

I rebuild any I get, I all ways degree ina cam, etc.
My RBS wrks, is ford speced (not the 2, 3 other car
makers it went in as they're not 250/4.1 exact) and hasa
adaptor for Matt's finned carb hat (included in sale), is cable
operated.

"...The throttle cable, kick down, and air cleaner all fit...."
Love to C a pic of the TV or kick down as I have an early '80's (Fairmont's "son") I'd like to swap out a C5 fora AOD. Some of these waggys had that tranny oe. None in a junk yrd fora peek. This one hasa 2 jet CFI. May B a BBS would flow higher than the RBS's 215?

Sounds like yer good w/the RBS Asa! The 1101 is 210, 5 cfm aint gunna matter + or -

 

[TheFutura]

Hi. This is an RBS (‘73 250 Maverick w/C-4) in an ‘82 Fairmont with 3.3L/200 automatic and cruise control, and AC. All stock when I bought 76,400 miles and rusty. The bolt pattern is the same as the original E2BE 1F15 CA carburetor that came off the car. It has a throttle blade diameter of 1.683. The throttle body hole measures 1.750 on both heads, the original head on the car now, and the D3DE-6090-AA. A similar application might require the aluminum PCV plate and thick Ford gasket. These items add three quarters of an inch in height. I hope this helps
Mark

 

[TheFutura]

This looks a lot more useful.

 

[chad]

OK ! Thanks much ! I C some of it. It's at the 2nd "over VC bracket".
I have some of that (not sure how it hooks up to the RBS) but see the bracket attached at rear lift eye, etc.
May have 1/4 to near 1/2 of that. Certainly don't have the hi arm from drivers side, seen in 1st pic that must go dwn to transmis. It hooks to a U shaped rod to some sorta linkage on rbs. May B some 'wire/cable to the transmis linkage...
That helps w/'the middle'. Need views of "@ carb" and "@ tranny" (2 ends). Greedy, no?

'S OK, tho. Big help. Give another the remaining job, U get several gold stars ! Documenting these ol birds is a real treasure to most of us who obtain stripped out ol hulks'n try 2 get'em into shape like urs. Now the oe parts? good luck (Alberta, CA 4 me)...

 

[chad]

Well, now post 17 comes in (while I was typing) as "1 of the 2 ends". It would hafta B at 'carb base level' to catch the way that U shaped rod goez inta the rbs linkage. THAT end seems easier to document than the tranny end as a lift might B needed. Doin good Bra !

"...E2BE 1F15 CA..."
wonder if that wasa BBS, may B, as that seemed last B4 the CFI (ford's 'throttle body').

Thanks again ! More gold stars!
Yeah, like at work the other day, boss sez "That's the 2nd good idea U had this yr." aahahahaa (wrong, but anyways). So I said "Yup, 3 this yr (named 2 more) that's good fora raise." (same - yeah, right. In my dreams). U Go, Mark !

 

[TheFutura]

Hahahaa!! Thanks. U Go, Chad ! I’m out of daylight, but I will provide more details tomorrow.