cobra5laddict
New member
In a nut shell, I was double checking my distributor part number in order to purchase a pertronix conversion and had a thought. I better decide on what my carb options are before i submit the order. I was surprised at what I found. I have 2 sets of parts i can use so I looked up how to identify each.
My first carb option is a autolite 1100 stamped C50EE or maybe C50FE? from what i know this was purchased about 7 years ago and ran shortly then removed. It has a single accelerator pump and for sure is 100% load-o-matic carb. this carb is equipped with electric choke. it appears that someone cross threaded the vacuum advance hard line port so i m not sure the condition of the housing or the threads.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... bne8od.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... hajf25.jpg
My second carb option is a dual accelerator pump carb and is correct for running an automatic (which i am) it has a "remanufactured carburetors" sticker on it from got knows when. i could not locate any part numbers on the housing on this carb other than a "55" stamped on the base near one of the mounting ears. This carb does not have the spark control bung or spark control valve (even though it came to me running with an original load-o-matic distributor. this carb has standard thermal choke assembly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... pyoa0g.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... e7iwi1.jpg
so this is where i am at, do i ditch the spark control carb (since the need to dual accelerator -dashpot) carb and pick up a 1968+ distributor, convert to pertronix to match? Or do i try and fix the threads on the spark o matic carb (again only singe accelerator pump- dashpot) and convert my load o matic distributor to pertronix. id really prefer to keep a mostly stock appearance and I dont have the time or access to do any sort of junkyard swap. i found several re manufactured 1968 and newer distributors from rock auto, napa etc ranging from $60-$150 then you add on the cost of the pertronix and the coil. i have about $250 to spend that includes $ for a carb rebuild kit to use ethanol fuels of today.
here is some backstory of my engine refresh and the stats,
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77542
keep in mind i have no desire to spin this engine tight, just a simple cruiser thats reliable and keeps up with todays traffic if anything emphasis on torque int eh low RPM.
thanks in advance for your time and advice!
My first carb option is a autolite 1100 stamped C50EE or maybe C50FE? from what i know this was purchased about 7 years ago and ran shortly then removed. It has a single accelerator pump and for sure is 100% load-o-matic carb. this carb is equipped with electric choke. it appears that someone cross threaded the vacuum advance hard line port so i m not sure the condition of the housing or the threads.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... bne8od.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... hajf25.jpg
My second carb option is a dual accelerator pump carb and is correct for running an automatic (which i am) it has a "remanufactured carburetors" sticker on it from got knows when. i could not locate any part numbers on the housing on this carb other than a "55" stamped on the base near one of the mounting ears. This carb does not have the spark control bung or spark control valve (even though it came to me running with an original load-o-matic distributor. this carb has standard thermal choke assembly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... pyoa0g.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ ... e7iwi1.jpg
so this is where i am at, do i ditch the spark control carb (since the need to dual accelerator -dashpot) carb and pick up a 1968+ distributor, convert to pertronix to match? Or do i try and fix the threads on the spark o matic carb (again only singe accelerator pump- dashpot) and convert my load o matic distributor to pertronix. id really prefer to keep a mostly stock appearance and I dont have the time or access to do any sort of junkyard swap. i found several re manufactured 1968 and newer distributors from rock auto, napa etc ranging from $60-$150 then you add on the cost of the pertronix and the coil. i have about $250 to spend that includes $ for a carb rebuild kit to use ethanol fuels of today.
here is some backstory of my engine refresh and the stats,
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77542
keep in mind i have no desire to spin this engine tight, just a simple cruiser thats reliable and keeps up with todays traffic if anything emphasis on torque int eh low RPM.
thanks in advance for your time and advice!