All Small Six Installing and Degreeing Camshaft - 1983 200lm

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

That one looks like the elastomer is coming out of it.

is it? I wondered. V.I. sells a new one for $150 Of course at this point in the rebuild $$$ perhaps I should get a new one (??).

You will know when the timing cover and pointer is in place with the damper installed and you check tdc with the head off. I think that the bolt on pointer has to be on before the damper. Post 68 shows the bolt on pointer.

Is this a dry fit moment? Should I bolt on the timing chain cover and mock it up?

 

[pmuller9]

Is this a dry fit moment? Should I bolt on the timing chain cover and mock it up?

Yes
No gaskets. Just a couple of bolts on the cover and the balancer

 

[wme013]

Mock it up. No gasket, no front seal, minimal force on the damper. You should quickly see which is the timing mark on the damper. I'm guessing the slit is correct mark.
Your damper does look suspect.

 

[drag-200stang]

Of course, I will give my 2 cents, A new damper is a very good idea. the old one looks tired, like my belt line. If you plan to use the old one, a dry run may show that it has slipped and that may help with the decision to go new, but if you go new do not bother just finish install the new damper and check before you install head.

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

drag-200stang, I will go ahead and get a new damper then. I don't want anyone staring at my tired belt line. Out of curiosity I will mock it up just to find the mark. But then I will get a new one.

Question: will the mark align TDC to zero on the balancer, or will it reflect the +2 advance on the crank gear?

 

[pmuller9]

Question: will the mark align TDC to zero on the balancer, or will it reflect the +2 advance on the crank gear?

The balancer mounts on the crankshaft and has nothing to do with the camshaft or the timing gears.
Bring the #1 piston to TDC and see where the balancers timing mark is.

 

[drag-200stang]

pmuller9 is right, in how you moved the crank sprocket to degree your cam, and I must like mudding the water, but so people understand that if you had used an offset key at the crank extending into the damper then it would shift the marks on the damper. You should always check the timing marks on the damper when installed and remark. Check before you put the head on, it is so much easier.

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Okay. Thanks. When I get the new damper I will do as you guys advise.

 

[wme013]

Just in case things go south...https://damperdoctor.com/

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Just in case things go south...https://damperdoctor.com/

Incredible. Whodda thunk there is a such a shop. It's like the Scotch Tape Store.
Thanks!

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

I found a moment to slip on the old damper and the bolt-on timing mark on the timing cover. It looks like it lines up zero to zero at TDC.

 

[wme013]

Good deal. That means that your outer damper ring has NOT slipped. Look close at the rubber for cracks and tears. If it looks good use it Of course check for run out after you get it fully mounted

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

It's been a year now and I have not progressed on the engine rebuild - sorry to report. While no one has missed anything, my apologies for not checking in. Everyone was and is so incredibly helpful and knowledgeable. My non-progress excuses are two: one, I turned in the head to Mann's Speed Shop in Kansas City, MO to have it milled. It isn't done yet. I didn't badger them to death because they are the best in town. My little '83 200lm just doesn't rate as cool as all the muscle car stuff they usually work on. But I am adding this entry because I am now bugging them to get it milled. It isn't that big of a job, which is probably why they can't get around to it.

My second reason for no progress is my wife's terminal cancer. Cancer will sap the energy and focus out of life. I hope and pray none of you know what I am talking about. But I know reality is, too many of you guys know exactly what I am talking about. She is still active as she can be, and life is okay. Each day has enough worries of its own. Each day is a gift.

Getting the engine done would be a good thing for me. Working with my hands is good therapy.

I did buy a new damper. That's where things left off. I will start a new thread once I get the head back from Mann's - if y'all can still tolerate my noob questions. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[78_200_C4]

You could have it running if you had just assembled it with a stock timing chain + sprocket set.
That loose looking timing chain looks like double bicycle chains. I have a 200 in my garage that I ran for 28 years. The timing chain is still tight.
When I was trying to degree a 260 Comp Cam I found it had a base circle run out of .006" so I bought a stock Enginetech 256 cam. There was no way I was going to buy a adjustable timing gear set so I didn't need to degree the cam is the first place. I'm glad that I tried because I found that the the Comp Cam was defective. I sent it back so my attempt to degree the cam was worth it.
Put it together and run it.
My 200 runs OK without degreeing the cam.

 

[alwill923]

just a note. When you move the crank in reverse (counter clockwise)you should always go past the point and rotate the crank clockwise to the point. You do not have to go all the way around.

 

[Dr_Dan_WWW]

Miracle of miracles - I actually got the head back from Manns Speed Shop here in Kansas City, MO (Independence MO). It's been over a year. It is time to start putting this E1BE all together.