All Small Six Lifter Bleeding

[clochard68]

I need some help with my lifters.

First, how do you bleed this type of hydraulic lifter? Do I have to disassemble them to get the oil out?
Second, I found the clip of one of my lifters like in the picture attached, with one arm out of the groove. Can I reuse that clip and just put it back into the groove or should I replace them?

Thanks for your help!

 

[bubba22349]

Yes for sure the little clip can be used and put back in, but it might need a little bit of tweaking so that it’s nice and straight again also spread it apart at opening so its under some spring tension. Looking at it in the picture I can see a twist in it, compare it to one of the others that is good and reshape it to match. Compressing the lifters bleed them down no need to take them apart. As to weather you should replace them it depends on the condition or wear of the bottom of the lifters I can’t really see that in your pictures.

 

[clochard68]

Thanks Bubba, by compressing I guess you mean put the lifter in a vice with a spacer the pushrod area to push it in?

 

[bubba22349]

Yes that would sure work or can also be done in the engine too.

 

[clochard68]

Thanks, as always very helpful

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, don't put the lifter in a vice, you will probably distort the side if you do that. You don't have to push the center down too far, just push down with something like a punch with the lifter on the workbench. When the lifter is assembled in the engine nothing can go anywhere except the clip. I never saw that happen before, I wonder how the clip came out. Good luck

 

[clochard68]

Ok I will try to do it on the workbench, hopefully I am strong enough haha
For proper adjustment of the valves it doesn't have to be completely bleed, right? Its enough if I can compress the lifter a little bit to set the preload?

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would just soak in in a coffee can with oil for an hour and then put it all together. There is no adjustment or preload to worry about. Good luck

 

[clochard68]

I have adjustable rocker assembly (shaft) from RAU. So when putting all back together, I would have tightened the adjustment screw untill I can't move the pushrod up or down any more, and then 1/4 or 1/2 a turn more. This extra 1/4 or 1/2 turn would be the preload. If the lifter is already pumped up, would that mean that the valve never closes completely? Or does the lifter adjust to the correct length after some time when the engine runs?

 

[clochard68]

I did some more research, but I am sorry I have to ask again, since I am not sure yet what the correct method for setting up my adjustable rocker assembly is:

1) I understand the lifters should be pumped up before initial start up so that they don't collapse
2) So I can put the lifters pumped up into the engine, install the pushrods and adjustable rocker assembly
3) Adjusting the studs with the ball end until there is zero lash between pushrod and stud
4) turn the stud 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in to achieve "preload" (--> this step may open the valves a little bit?)
5) when firing up the engine the hydraulic lifters will adjust so that the valves will always close completely

Is this correct, or is step 4) not necessary (I think that is what B RON CO is trying to tell me, I just didn't fully understand it)?
It's my first time setting valve clearance on my 200, I am just used to do it on old CB350 twin Hondas, so please pardon my ignorance...

PS: I attached the section of the fordsix tech homepage for comparison

 

[bubba22349]

I did some more research, but I am sorry I have to ask again, since I am not sure yet what the correct method for setting up my adjustable rocker assembly is:

1) I understand the lifters should be pumped up before initial start up so that they don't collapse
2) So I can put the lifters pumped up into the engine, install the pushrods and adjustable rocker assembly
3) Adjusting the studs with the ball end until there is zero lash between pushrod and stud
4) turn the stud 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in to achieve "preload" (--> this step may open the valves a little bit?)
5) when firing up the engine the hydraulic lifters will adjust so that the valves will always close completely

Is this correct, or is step 4) not necessary (I think that is what B RON CO is trying to tell me, I just didn't fully understand it)?
It's my first time setting valve clearance on my 200, I am just used to do it on old CB350 twin Hondas, so please pardon my ignorance...

PS: I attached the section of the fordsix tech homepage for comparison

No problem in asking again so that your sure. Below is the best method since its apart now.

1. The lifters don't need to be plumped up before starting, it will be easier to set the valve lash to zero & then do the preload setting if they are not.
2. No you will need to have the lifters collapsed completely to be able to adjust them properly with this above method.
3. That's correct.
4. That first part is mostly correct. IE after you set them to zero lash in step 3. turn the stud 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in to achieve the "preload" setting. If the Lifters have been fully collapsed at the beginning it will not open up any of the valves when you are setting their preload.
5. Yes when the engine is started up and builds up oil pressure the lifters will pump up to the right position if the zero lash as set correctly plus the preload setting you can use 1/4 to 1 full turn or anywhere in between. I like to use 1/4 turn and I don't really mind if there is a little lifter ticking for a few seconds after a prolonged engine shut down. If you don't like hearing the lifters at start up use 3/4 to 1 turn. Best of luck

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, you are hopefully done by now but, the lid on the lifter is pushed up by the spring. You probably saw all that. The hydraulic pressure, delivered by the oil pump, keeps the lifters under a certain tension. When you set your rocker arms when the engine is not running there is zero oil pressure so the only thing holding up the lifter lid it spring pressure. By compressing the lifter spring (a little) you are in a "zone" where the lifter has some give and take between being loose, clacking, and being too tight, overload. " Whatever too tight and overloaded is*!

 

[clochard68]

Thank you Bubba and B RON CO, now I know exactly what to do!

I also purchased a priming tool so I can spin the oil pump shaft before initial startup (and after all the adjustement steps mentioned). This way the lifters should be pumped up correctly before I start the engine for the first time. Thanks.