All Small Six Rear main seal leak?

This relates to all small sixes
DoctorC

DoctorC

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Hi All,
when i bout this puppy, the tranny cover you see here was not on the car. So I had it put on. Now I have a leak down it (its been about 4k miles and 3 years). Is this a rear main seal leak? And i assume a total PITA the fix?

Thanks for lookin!
 

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DoctorC said:
Hi All,
when i bout this puppy, the tranny cover you see here was not on the car. So I had it put on. Now I have a leak down it (its been about 4k miles and 3 years). Is this a rear main seal leak? And i assume a total PITA the fix?

Thanks for lookin!
Click to expand...
When you installed the flywheel, or flexplate, did you put sealer on those bolts? Those bolts are exposed to oil & will also cause a leak in that area.
 
Hmm. I dont know actually. This was part of the initial work a mechanic did when i bought the car. I drove it 2 blocks and had him make it road safe =)
This was one of the things he did. along with a balancer and the brakes.

What can i do to check?
 
DoctorC said:
Hmm. I dont know actually. This was part of the initial work a mechanic did when i bought the car. I drove it 2 blocks and had him make it road safe =)
This was one of the things he did. along with a balancer and the brakes.

What can i do to check?
Click to expand...
Can you check with him & ask him did he seal the bolts. If yes, time to drop the pan & do the rear main seal. Are you running the rope seal or the rubber seal???
 
To be honest I have no idea. I'm happy to say this is a part of the car I have not needed to touch at all. But I'll ping the mechanic, it's been 3 years... but he should have a SOP even if he doesnt remember the details of my visit. =)
Good idea!
DrC
 
Got the same problem with my fresh rebuild...I'm not happy, but I was suspect of that rope seal I put in from the kit. I should've held off and gotten a decent rubber/silicone on. It's on the way. Should be here this week.

I THINK if we drop the crossmember bar, the oil pan will clear all the steering parts and come out or drop enough to do the job. Fingers crossed.

If not, I'll have to pull the T-5, clutch, ect...
 
Last edited:
Oh dude, keep me posted. Please take some pics too!
 
some here R more recently goin back to the rope.
EITHER needs precise installation techniques for good futures (no leaks). Research, decide, we'll fill you in, if needed (by then you'll probably know) on final tips (or use the search function).
Good 2CU again...
 
If you install the the neoprene seal correctly you will have no leakage.
You rotate the seal where the ends meet @ 10:00 o'clock & 4:00 o'clock and put a dab of Toyota or Lexus FIPG sealer where the ends meet.
Here is an old post from me.

Rear Main Seal

ok mine has leaked a drop or two most weeks, has been getting worse since racing it etc, what can i expect? Is it robbing performance? Is it more of a pain in the but to fix, as its a little oil etc, it has sprayed the under carriage and dropped a puddle. What brand should i use and, should i...
fordsix.com fordsix.com
 
I used the neoprene seal. Still wondering if I should have used the rope. Mines leaking too. But I'm betting its from the flex bolts. Never removed them
 
Many people have had trouble with the neoprene seals the last few years seems as though the currently made FelPro and other seals don't exactly match the original Ford specs. I don't know if FelPro has corrected the problem yet. If you can't locate an NOS Motorcraft Ford rear main seal for a guaranteed fit then your probally better off using the rope seal. And yes X2 don't forget to use some type of sealer on the crankshaft to flywheel or flex plate bolts.
 
bubba22349 said:
Many people have had trouble with the neoprene seals the last few years seems as the currently made FelPro and other seals don't match the orginal Ford specs. If you can't locate an NOS Motorcraft Ford rear main seal then your better off using the rope seal. And yes X2 don't forget to use some type of sealer on the crankshaft to flywheel or flex plate bolts.
Click to expand...

Why the flex plate bolts...they don't see the engines internals?
 
Wakjob, X2 I was talking about the bolts that hold the flex plate to the crankshaft it's the same thing for a flywheel too. All six of those bolt holes in the crankshaft flange are drilled and threaded all the way through the flange and are therefor open into the crankcase. The only differance between the bolts for a flywheel (is the bolts are about 7/8 inch long) or a flex plate (is the bolts are about 3/4 inch long) is in their lengths.
 
I replaced the rear main seal on my 200 cid L6 this winter. I followed the steps outlined in the post at #10 above. I am in no way a mechanic but I pulled the engine to do mine. My decision was easier because I needed to replace the clutch too. As for the rear main seal, I used the Felpro neoprene, clocking it at 10 and 4 (with FIPG on the ends and a little where the main cap bolts down). It worked perfectly for me. I also made sure to use blue loctite on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil from coming from the crankcase. The work was worth it because my Bronco is completely leak-free.
 
how much oil ? if it's leaving a puddle and embarassment thats not nice but sometimes a tiny drip can cause rustproofing, and on the scale of things a quart over a few years is a cheap repair especially if you are paying a mechanic. of course it can be fixed. Practical is a fine line sometimes. budgets can vary especially now with corona messing with peoples jobs etc. running out of oil is when it gets pricey. not very good for the environment if its a serious drip obviously.
 
Last edited:
twodogs said:
I replaced the rear main seal on my 200 cid L6 this winter. I followed the steps outlined in the post at #10 above. I am in no way a mechanic but I pulled the engine to do mine. My decision was easier because I needed to replace the clutch too. As for the rear main seal, I used the Felpro neoprene, clocking it at 10 and 4 (with FIPG on the ends and a little where the main cap bolts down). It worked perfectly for me. I also made sure to use blue loctite on the flywheel bolts to prevent oil from coming from the crankcase. The work was worth it because my Bronco is completely leak-free.
Click to expand...
twodogs is that an international scout or an early ford? i had a 63 scout when i was young. loved it. always wish i kept it. it would climb like a goat even with just half a V8 and no compression. fond memories. maybe its a early bronco. had a friend with one. they look similar. rare now.
 
philford said:
how much oil ? if it's leaving a puddle and embarassment thats not nice but sometimes a tiny drip can cause rustproofing, and on the scale of things a quart over a few years is a cheap repair especially if you are paying a mechanic. of course it can be fixed. Practical is a fine line sometimes. budgets can vary especially now with corona messing with peoples jobs etc. running out of oil is when it gets pricey. not very good for the environment if its a serious drip obviously.
Click to expand...
it's a drip for now, not a puddle. BUT i just remebered i added 1 qt of synthetic oil last change to see what would happen... now i know =)
 
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