All Small Six Starting issues

This relates to all small sixes
N

NickP

Active member
Supporter 2022
Supporter 2021
Ok, so I bought a 1961 Econoline with a stock 144cu and it will not start easily / stay running. I need advice, you can assume I know nothing about cars.

- There is a electronic fuel pump, I have never dealt with one of these before. When do I turn it on? I was playing around with it yesterday and I think I flooded it. Then when I went to start it today it fired right up, ran for a few minutes then stalled out.

- If I shoot ether into it, I can get it started sometimes but it doesn't stay running.

- I played around with the choke, fully open, fully closed, half way. I got it running with half choke but it eventually stalled.

- It does not have a gas tank installed, it's running off of a fuel cell. Not sure if this is going to matter.

Here is a video of me trying to start it and moving the choke to different positions.





As always, thank you for the help!
Nick
 
Hey Nick! You have a lack of fuel at the carb. Thanks for the video, very helpful.
First, verify that your electric pump is pumping sufficiently. Unhook the hose at the carb, use a catch can, and turn the pump on briefly. It should put out at least a cup of gas by10 seconds. (Be careful!) If the pump is good, hook the line back up and do this crazy sounding trick-
using a small hammer, or the handle-end of a large screwdriver, tap the carburetor repeatedly along that flat lip where the gas line goes into it. Tap it fairly hard, but not to point of damage obviously. While still tapping it, turn the fuel pump on, and continue tapping for several seconds. What this can do is dislodge any small debris that may be holding the needle valve closed. This really works, I've done it many times. Now see if it starts and stays running. Changing that inline filter is recommended.
2 side comments- be sure your gas is clean, no water. Also, when you pump the gas on a carb engine, a squirt of gas is injected into the airstream. Pump it more gently. "Stabbing" the pedal does not allow this process to occur correctly.
Best of luck!
 
I'm on it! I won't have time to get back to the car until this weekend but I will let you know. Thanks!
 
Alright, so I did exactly what you said and it seems to want to run. The issue now is that it's just pissing gasoline out of god knows where. So I'm going to tighten up the carb and see whats what this weekend. Maybe need to rebuild the carb.
 
The tap the carb fix is also often used when they are flooding from the float needle not closing. (think constant-running toilet) You may have loosened it from being stuck shut to being stuck open. Not to worry. IF the gas is coming from inside the carb, then repeat the tapping process in reverse.
First, turn the pump on with engine off and look closely for where the gas is coming from. Leave the choke open and look down in the bore with a flashlight. If any gas is appearing inside there, the float is now stuck partially open. Cut the pump off quickly, keep flooding to a minimum. Now with the carb still full of gas, start the engine, leave the pump OFF. While it's running, tap the carb the whole time until it stall out from running dry. ( If raw gas did go in the manifold, you will have to hold the pedal down, don't pump it, and no choke while cranking, to clear the flooding quickly.)
turn the pump on and see if it overflows again when the bowl fills. If it is, you will need to go into it with a rebuild kit. It seems that this carb must have sat dry for an extended time, and/or dirty gas has contaminated the needle/seat. Old vehicles will all have rusty gas tank issues eventually, and this is probably the origin of this issue, possibly dating back years. A few tiny rust particles is more than enough to jam the needle and cause these problems.
A carb rebuild is the long term fix, but be sure to make whatever investment is necessary to have a completely clean fuel supply first.
Peace.
 
Alright, so the engine def wants to run and is starting up ok, a little rough but ok. The issues is gasoline leakage from the carb. I took a picture of where its coming from, please advise
 

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Hey Nick. Thanks for the pics. I'm not hands-on familiar with that model carb, so I hope others respond. It should not have fuel coming from the top though, and normally I would recommend replacement. the problem is replacement carbs are not always of good quality anymore. The remanufactured ones sometimes are just "worn out" physically, and new internals aren't sufficient. Cheap China-made new carbs is becoming almost the only option. Some work ok, others not. It's a hit/miss proposition.
Is that a crack line where the fuel is exiting? Either way, that carb looks like it needs some TLC. A deep cleaning and overhaul kit at least.
Sorry I'm not able to be more definitive.
 
I found a new old stock carb for 100 on ebay so that should handle that. Ill keep you posted and thanks for the help!
 
Nick- good afternoon. When you install the NOS carb, it is best to ease the gas into the bowl. It's been sitting dry for a long time, and sometimes if it goes from dry to full pressure, the needle sticks. (I'm sure you're tired of hearing about needle sticking!) Hook the gas line up and turn the pump on for two seconds, then off. wait 5 seconds, do the same again a couple more times. It should be good to go after that.
Also, don't work the throttle lever by hand any more than necessary until gas is in it. Every time it is moved, the accelerator pump is scrubbing dry metal.
Last thing- I see your thread in the Econoline Corner about the 300 swap. If you don't get much feedback from there, post it over on the big block site. Those guys know the 300, several have vans, and several have 300's in non-Ford oddball stuff. (Model T, '49 Chevy, etc.)
 
I like to put a metal filter screwed directly into the carb. like in the pic of the engine, in " tuning engine for new transmission" thread below this one. I have seen rubber get rubbed off and foul the carb..
 
Last edited:
Yes, not your fault, I am a lazy poster and was not clear.
See how the filter is screwed directly into the carb, that is what I am typing about.
 
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Oh, I see. There is a fuel filter on the line but it's before the pump

tank -> filter -> pump -> carb

If it's better to put it directly on the carb, i can do that when the new one comes in. (It's actually just got delivered so maybe i'll be able to take care of this Sunday)
 
The filter directly screwed into the carb protects the carb from the all the line, pump, and stuff before, it can shed, and it does. Is that electric pump just temporary or what, no mech. pump?
The electric pump should be back at tank and low, they do not like to suck. Best to see their instructions for filters for the pump and install.
 
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