I usually start my carb tuning on the rich side and I’ll keep leaning the jets until the motor starts to miss in normal driving.
If you are leaning to the point of detectable misfiring, you're going much too far in one jump. All fuel tuning is to max-torque, except for decel of course, and cruise fueling at various speeds - so I assume that's what we're looking at here. To use lean-cruise tuning with a 'smart' controller such as the Carb Cheater, follow all steps except leaning from slightly rich, which will be with the CC.
Tuning requires stable conditions of fully-warmed engine temperature, normal fuel choice, etc. When tuning cruise fueling, you would carefully maintain your steady and constant specific cruise speed target on each test run, same level road, weather, etc. You would typically tune "bottom-up", from idle and work to higher speeds and loads, building the tune one area on the last, so the next tuning would normally be transition circuits. Those are varied and can be complex on certain carbs (see documentation for your brand and model), so let's jump past those only for sake of this example.
The target speed could be your max highway cruise, where your main jet(s) should be the primary fueling source. You can jump multiple jet sizes or bleeds to quickly find lean misfire, then richen back up to the last smooth-running jet size.
From there, return to leaning but by smallest steps (or with the CC if that's what you're using) until you begin to feel a slight and slow push-pull surging of power (with
no movement of pedal or change of conditions). This mild surging is the onset of partial misfire (incomplete burn) in the weakest cylinder. You will feel no "misfire". As the lean-surging slowly cycles (once per few to several seconds like a shifting light headwind), the manifold vacuum can be seen to also wave slightly higher and lower, which is the source of the cyclic surge and recovery cycle. If using a Lambda/AFR gauge, you will also see the AFR waver, as the partial misfire adds O2 to create a leaner-than-actual reading. Reminder - misfires (even excessively rich misfire) will read leaner due to the extra oxygen in the un-burned exhaust.
You have found and slightly crossed the lean-burn edge. Richen one step and you're there.
Repeat at various cruise speeds, altering the circuits that apply most prominently, such as the transition circuit at lower cruise speeds, and re-check other speeds, as the effects of each circuit add and overlap.
Note before you run off to do this, your idle should already be tuned to the maximum vacuum you can attain at your normal warm target idle and correct timing, as idle tuning will affect cruise tuning. Also verify your power enrichment circuit(s) are
not functioning at your max cruise speed, typically above about 80% throttle. For example, if your carb uses a power valve to enrich for power, test it for function and opening vacuum, noting the vacuum reading that it cracks open. This vacuum level should be slightly higher than your max highway cruise vacuum, or your economy will suffer greatly. Likewise, a "smart" control unit may be trying to lean your power fueling rather than maintaining it at safe peak-torque fueling in that condition. Your carb, ignition, and smart controllers
must work together.
Finally, and
very important - after finding your lean-burn cruise fueling, you
must correct your cruise ignition timing. This can only be done (easily) with a standard vacuum-advance distributor or programmable ignition, and will both increase your efficiency (economy) and reduce any late-burn heating effects (the "lean is hot!" stories). I will make a separate post for how to correct and restore the optimal cruise timing.
@Moderator - should this and following be in a different section?