I don't think you can get an accurate RPM using the water pump pulley since it's a smaller diameter than the the crankshaft which is driving it.
Learn how to adjust the valves with the engine running a very slow idle.
Use a piece or cardboard (like a valve cover gasket box for oil control) If valve adjustment is too loose (1/4 turn) the rockers will clack when cold but be fine at operating temp. Try a 1/2 turn.
This way the lifters will be bled down and not hold any valves open making it run terrible.
Install an ebay China made Black cap HEI dist. with wire set powered thru a relay.
If you install an HEI advance curve kit don't use the weights, only use the lighter springs.
Connect the HEI vacuum advance to full vacuum, plug the LOM carb vacuum advance port.
You really don't need a tach. Adjust the the high and low idle speeds to what you like. 1380 is high though.
You really don't need a repair manual to work on an old Ford six.
I was paid by my grandfather back around 1969 to install new rings, bearings and a clutch in a 6 cylinder ford truck with a granny 4 speed when I 16. I didn't have a manual. If needed I got bolt torque spec's from the parts store. This very old mechanic (about 90) told me I didn't need a torque wrench. He was right. I do use a torgue wrench on the head, rod, and main bolts but I am sure I that really don't need one.
Yeah, I suspected that Bubba. I thought maybe they were moving at two different speeds, but completed their revolution at the same time. It seems more likely that the water pump pulley is making more revolutions for each complete turn of the crankshaft. Just couldn’t find a good spot on crankshaft pulley to attach reflective tape. I’ll try again. I also have another tachometer that works by induction. I’ll try that as well.
Set the initial at 12 degrees & road test.Thanks for replies. The engine feels very strong. It starts up with a lot more power than it did several weeks back when I had the C4 in there. That got me thinking that it does not have as much resistance on it at idle as it once did and it seems to be revving high. I suspect my curb idle rpm is a lot higher than the 500-525 range that was mentioned. There is no tachometer on the car so it’s difficult for me to tell where the idle rpms are exactly. I’m going to try using a handheld digital tach the next time I’m out there. I do remember setting the idle rpm on the high side a long time ago to deal with stalling issues I was having. I’ll start by resetting the idle rpm and see where that gets me. Hopefully it brings that noise down. I will video the engine running the next time I get out there (hopefully tomorrow) and post it to let you all hear what I am referring to. After that, I’ll look to reset the timing to the suggested 6 to 8 degrees BTDC. Thanks again.
The "Drop A Load" article is wrong about the ported vacuum source. At anything other than an almost closed throttle the vacuum source is full vacuum. The vacuum port has to be plugged with JB Weld then redrilled higher for a ported vacuum source. I have an Autolite 1100 and a Holley carb that I followed the "Drop A Load" article then plugged and redrilled the vacuum port. I have both carbs sitting on a shelf in my garage. I also notified the author of that article that his info was wrong.In this picture of a Load O Matic (LOM) small block six Distribitor if you look closely you can see the lowered blocked out rectangle were the distribitor numbers are located. Also notice the unique Vacuum Advance Canister of the LOM, here is the link https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NMsAAOSwUYNZ7LVD/s-l300.jpg
As a side note the Autolite 1100 is one SCV Carb that is very easy to convert into a ported Vacuum Sorce with a few simple mod's called the "Drop A Load". Personally I am not much of a fan of the cheap HEI's but they can work if you devote the time and funds into them to set them up correctly.
Yes the 3.20 rear gear would be a good one for use with your new 3.03 Trans swap and give you good ratio for street and hyway use. Best of luck
My Falcon runs great. I moved the China made HEI module to an external CPU heat sink mounted THRU the radiator support. I set the plug gap at .032 for a high amp blue spark for performance and reliability. The HEI module runs cooler than under hood temperature.I understand where you are coming from.
Personally, there isn't much here I agree with, but I know a lot of older hobbyists that do things similarly, and rarely have issues.
I agree completely with the first four lines. I do it a bit differently, but your method also works.
the china-made distributor, although great in the 80's and mid 90's its not something I would recommend with today's manufacturing climate. I am not familiar enough with how the LOM carb vacuum effects an HEI, but if you are going to go through the work of putting an HEI on a 6, why not get the larger venturi stronger vac. 1v carbs that breath better? (completely personal here)
although experienced people don't need a tach to adjust idle speeds, I would not recommend eschewing it. Trust but verify. use the tach if you got it.
repair manuals can sometimes warn you of things to look out for while doing a job. and working on these engines isn't as big of a pastime as working on eights. its not just about technical specs in shop manuals anymore. how many of us working on SB6's have forgotten that the right front head bolt is wet, forgotten to put sealer on it, just to take it out, seal it, and have to put it back? shop manuals will warn of things like that as well.
when I was 16, my grandfather and I were restoring a 1949 Ford Special Sedan that had killed his grandfather in 1954. I still remember grabbing that big torque wrench and still struggling to get to that 215 lb.ft. that the technical manual wanted for the final torque on the flathead v8. some jobs don't need them, and its not a big deal. other jobs need them, and under/over torque can be a huge deal especially with aluminum parts like thermostat housings, or milled heads. Tightening the conrods around the crank journals you shouldn't be under-torque, and can go a little over (but not much), or for other parts you can be slightly under, but shouldn't go over torque like wire loom mounts, or valve cover bolts on some engines. modern shop manuals tell new hobbyists these things and give warnings accordingly, some things we may do out of habit, and forget to tell others as well.
for most jobs, I don't use the torque wrench until I am almost done, and then torque it, mainly to have less wear on the wrench, but also because ratchets are so much easier to use.
I trust my feeling, but I still grab that torque wrench and verify what I have done. I mean I spent the money to get the parts, I spent the time to take the old one off, and put the new one on; and I like the drive of the car and don't like seeing her just sit in my garage, I might as well make sure I did the job right as well; and I am not over straining anything, or that it won't come apart on me later.