All Small Six Tuning Engine for New Transmission

This relates to all small sixes
78_200_C4 - I did remember to disconnect and plug vacuum line. Thanks for reminding me in case I didn’t, though. Didn’t realize the consequences of not doing that could be so severe. Possibly in the future I may upgrade my distributor like so many have mentioned. I’ll definitely take all that info into consideration. At the moment, I’m still not positive about the distributor currently on my car. I tried to look for a casting number or ID tag but did not find one. I did note, though, from the door tag on my car that my axel code is 3. This corresponds to a 3.20 open differential on a 1965 mustang. Providing that’s what is still on the vehicle, hopefully it is compatible with the 3.03 manual transmission. The car did start out as a manual vehicle.

R_Calris- thanks for info. I did set TDC on the pulley and marked it with some white out. The white out really popped with the timing light.

Alright, going to head back out into the garage. My goal for today is to adjust the hot idle screw and get that along with the air/fuel mixture dialed in. I‘ll try to find a new spot on crank pulley for the tach’s reflective tape. The tach wasn’t picking it up the last time I tried. As mentioned earlier, I also have a tach that works by induction so I’ll try that as well. Thanks again for all the great info.
Ok. Sounds good. Thanks. For now, as was suggested, I’ll reroute the vacuum advance line for manifold vacuum and plug the port on the carburetor.
Do that and leave the inner retard port on the distributor plugged. The advance retard was part of a failed NOX emmisions regulations
 
My Falcon runs great. I moved the China made HEI module to an external CPU heat sink mounted THRU the radiator support. I set the plug gap at .032 for a high amp blue spark for performance and reliability. The HEI module runs cooler than under hood temperature.
I can always tell if someone is a newby by their torque wrench questions. Bolt stretch is a better indication of a properly tightened nut or bolt than torque.
Practical experience is always better than following a manual that you don't understand.
As for the larger Carter carbs like an Electric choke YFA they are great. Just install a large log head and cable throttle linkage.
I ran a China made Carter YFA for a few years. It's sitting on a shelf in my garage.
never said you were wrong, or that it didn't/wont work. only said that most of what you said isn't what I would, personally, recommend. thanks for the followup though. we all have habits that work for us, and no harm is actually done to the engines. but there are times that what we do/don't do can have serious impacts.

my personal recommendation would be to read service manuals and bulletins to the best of your abilities, then use the forums as a way to clarify what is being said in those manuals or bulletins. and always follow proper torquing sequences, with a torque wrench.

Although the Chinese made parts mostly work, I have noticed a succinct decline of quality control over the last 15 years of Chinese made parts/products. so I rarely recommend going that route unless one can either not find what they are looking for otherwise, or are unable to make room in their budgets for anything better. because I can not trust the quality control, I have issues personally recommending them. if you get a good one: GREAT! otherwise, they are worth less than their weight in lead.
 
never said you were wrong, or that it didn't/wont work. only said that most of what you said isn't what I would, personally, recommend. thanks for the followup though. we all have habits that work for us, and no harm is actually done to the engines. but there are times that what we do/don't do can have serious impacts.

my personal recommendation would be to read service manuals and bulletins to the best of your abilities, then use the forums as a way to clarify what is being said in those manuals or bulletins. and always follow proper torquing sequences, with a torque wrench.

Although the Chinese made parts mostly work, I have noticed a succinct decline of quality control over the last 15 years of Chinese made parts/products. so I rarely recommend going that route unless one can either not find what they are looking for otherwise, or are unable to make room in their budgets for anything better. because I can not trust the quality control, I have issues personally recommending them. if you get a good one: GREAT! otherwise, they are worth less than their weight in lead.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor is the easiest to install ignition system.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor is the most cost effective replacement for an LOM distributor.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor can be installed without replacing the LOM carb.
I doubt that you have any experience with Chinese made carbs or distributors or even know what an LOM carb or dist. is.
 
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor is the easiest to install ignition system.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor is the most cost effective replacement for an LOM distributor.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor can be installed without replacing the LOM carb.
I doubt that you have any experience with Chinese made carbs or distributors or even know what an LOM carb or dist. is.

I have a Chinese DS2 distributor and yf carb. I am not happy with the quality. I am still running them but slowly fixing all the flaws as the need arises.
 
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor is the easiest to install ignition system.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor is the most cost effective replacement for an LOM distributor.
The (Chinese made) HEI distributor can be installed without replacing the LOM carb.
I doubt that you have any experience with Chinese made carbs or distributors or even know what an LOM carb or dist. is.
I know what they are, I grew up working on antique/classic fords, and was very active with the Gateway Ford Mercury Car Club, and the Fords Unlimited Car Club in the St. Louis area all the way until my grandfather, who owned an auto shop in the St. Louis area, passed away. and in the late 80's all through the 90's, and early 00's I would have agreed with you without question. I haven't seen anything, at all, in the last 10 years to convince me to recommend Chinese made components. and for the five years before that I got a few good ones, but a lot of bad ones. I, personally, can not, in good conscience, recommend Chinese made parts any longer.

if you continue to get good parts from China, good on you! stay with those suppliers, and recommend those specific suppliers. but a blanket 'buy a Chinese part' I can not, and will not get behind.

and the easiest to install distributor, in my oppinion, to replace an LOM is the factory 1979 mercury zephyr distributor. but we all have our preferences. and yes, that means either changing the vacc location, or the carb, but its still easier in my oppinion to move the vacc than to do an HEI rewire, but thats just me.
 
Last edited:
I have a Chinese DS2 distributor and yf carb. I am not happy with the quality. I am still running them but slowly fixing all the flaws as the need arises.
I know what they are, I grew up working on antique/classic fords, and was very active with the Gateway Ford Mercury Car Club, and the Fords Unlimited Car Club in the St. Louis area all the way until my grandfather, who owned an auto shop in the St. Louis area, passed away. and in the late 80's all through the 90's, and early 00's I would have agreed with you without question. I haven't seen anything, at all, in the last 10 years to convince me to recommend Chinese made components. and for the five years before that I got a few good ones, but a lot of bad ones. I, personally, can not, in good conscience, recommend Chinese made parts any longer.

if you continue to get good parts from China, good on you! stay with those suppliers, and recommend those specific suppliers. but a blanket 'buy a Chinese part' I can not, and will not get behind.

and the easiest to install distributor, in my oppinion, to replace an LOM is the factory 1979 mercury zephyr distributor. but we all have our preferences. and yes, that means either changing the vacc location, or the carb, but its still easier in my oppinion to move the vacc than to do an HEI rewire, but thats just me.
So in other words you don't know what you are talking about + have no direct practical experience with China made carbs + distributors or the Load'O'Matic system..
Your main purpose in life must be to hijack threads with your Chinese hate because you do not have the knowledge or practical experience to contribute in a positive manner.
 
You have a mis-match with the carb & distributor. Your easiest at this time would be an HEI. Just remember where ever you get one it needs to be recurved for your combination & the over oiling condition mod performed.. I can do that.
Contact me if you want the best combo. billythedistributorman@live.com Thanks Bill wsa111
 
Last edited:
So in other words you don't know what you are talking about + have no direct practical experience with China made carbs + distributors or the Load'O'Matic system..
Your main purpose in life must be to hijack threads with your Chinese hate because you do not have the knowledge or practical experience to contribute in a positive manner.
did you even read what was typed? your comment doesn't read as though you read anything I said. Also, do you remember what this thread is supposed to be about? helping a fellow SB6 owner tune their engine.

not about origin country of parts. that said: just because a product is made in a given country doesn't mean I will/won't recommend it. I have yet to find a company, based in China, in the past 15 years, that I would recommend. but you are giving the blanket statement 'everything from China is trustworthy, and anyone who disagrees is a hate-monger.' and yes, that is what your above statement says to me.

there are companies in Austrialia, New Zeland, Great Britan, France, Spain, Canada, Mexico, and in the United States that I won't recomend and there are ones that I would. then there are companies I would recommend for some parts and not others. I would never give, or trust, a blanket statement that <Insert Any Country Name Here> always makes good products. I can't stand behind it because there are always bad companies. now, if you tell me a specific company in China that you get your HEI distributors from, I'll check them out. Until then, I am not replying to you on this issue other than to say: I won't agree with a statement to trust everything exported from any singular country, and neither should anyone else. there are good companies, and bad companies.

give me the company name you trust, and I'll look into them.
 
I have a distributor question: I understand the advance/retard vacuum canister. The ? is, with that short line for the retard being plugged, does it create a slight vacuum on that side of the diaphragm when the advance side is advancing, thus reducing total advance? The one distributor I had back in the day with dual vacuum ports, I ran a line on the retard side long enough to prevent dirt from getting in, and left it open to the atmosphere so it did not contradict the advance signal.
 
I have a distributor question: I understand the advance/retard vacuum canister. The ? is, with that short line for the retard being plugged, does it create a slight vacuum on that side of the diaphragm when the advance side is advancing, thus reducing total advance? The one distributor I had back in the day with dual vacuum ports, I ran a line on the retard side long enough to prevent dirt from getting in, and left it open to the atmosphere so it did not contradict the advance signal.
Some emission systems retarded the timing at idle to reduce NOX emissions..
If the engine overheated a 3 port thermal switch in the thermostt housing directed full vacuum to the vacuum advance to increase idle speed and timing to cool the engine. Retarded timing caused heating problems. Many cars with the inner retard port would have a check ball pushed into the vacuum line instead of plugging the end. You could see the bulge in the line.
 
Last edited:
did you even read what was typed? your comment doesn't read as though you read anything I said. Also, do you remember what this thread is supposed to be about? helping a fellow SB6 owner tune their engine.

not about origin country of parts. that said: just because a product is made in a given country doesn't mean I will/won't recommend it. I have yet to find a company, based in China, in the past 15 years, that I would recommend. but you are giving the blanket statement 'everything from China is trustworthy, and anyone who disagrees is a hate-monger.' and yes, that is what your above statement says to me.

there are companies in Austrialia, New Zeland, Great Britan, France, Spain, Canada, Mexico, and in the United States that I won't recomend and there are ones that I would. then there are companies I would recommend for some parts and not others. I would never give, or trust, a blanket statement that <Insert Any Country Name Here> always makes good products. I can't stand behind it because there are always bad companies. now, if you tell me a specific company in China that you get your HEI distributors from, I'll check them out. Until then, I am not replying to you on this issue other than to say: I won't agree with a statement to trust everything exported from any singular country, and neither should anyone else. there are good companies, and bad companies.

give me the company name you trust, and I'll look into them.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
 
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
so, you agree you haven't read anything I have added to this discorse, and you, personally, can't provide a name for a given company for me to look into, as a company with that many single consonants doesn't exist in China.

I won't agree with a statement to trust everything exported from any singular country, and neither should anyone else. there are good companies, and bad companies.

give me the company name you trust, and I'll look into them.
 
so, you agree you haven't read anything I have added to this discorse, and you, personally, can't provide a name for a given company for me to look into, as a company with that many single consonants doesn't exist in China.

I won't agree with a statement to trust everything exported from any singular country, and neither should anyone else. there are good companies, and bad companies.

give me the company name you trust, and I'll look into them.
I don't care what you think or blabber. If you have a China made product problem start your own thread don't hijack another person's tuning thread. I have four Chinese Carter carbs and one HEI distributor that all work great. I would not give an @hole like you any info on any one of them for free. Your virtue signaling and gaslighting is obvious.
 
not hijacking the thread, asking WHAT COMPANY do you trust, so I can look into them. you haven't done so.

and the idea that you are on a free forum, and wont advertise on behalf of a company you know and trust calls into question the integrity of your comments.

name calling someone during a discourse is a subconscious admission of the other person's statements. basic High-School speech class teaches that.

virtue signalling is saying one thing for accolades, and doing another. I have only stated I won't agree to a blanket statement that everything exported from a given country is trustworthy.

Gaslighting is doing something, then promising it didn't happen.... what did I do, and then attempt to convince you I didn't?
 
Some emission systems retarded the timing at idle to reduce NOX emissions..
If the engine overheated a 3 port thermal switch in the thermostt housing directed full vacuum to the vacuum advance to increase idle speed and timing to cool the engine. Retarded timing caused heating problems. Many cars with the inner retard port would have a check ball pushed into the vacuum line instead of plugging the end. You could see the bulge in the line.
Thanks. Yes, sir- I lived through that era of early emissions efforts. What a mess, It's a big reason the imports got a foothold IMO- our cars went from powerful to milk toast nearly overnight. The question is, when the diaphragm moves toward the advance vacuum source on acceleration, if atmospheric pressure is not available on the back side of it- if it's plugged like 65 Mustangs on post # 32, then a vacuum is produced on the plugged retard side, offsetting the advance signal and the net advance is reduced. The unused line should not be plugged, but should be long enough to allow it to breathe without drawing dirty air from the engine bay. Or a short line with a tiny filter on it, a fuel filter for Sthil trimmers works well, and prevents potential contamination of the retard canister cavity, while allowing the diaphragm to fully respond to the advance signal.
 
I usually swap out those duel port Vacuum Canisters for the single port canisters used in about the 1970 up cars. Now that I think about it I think you have a good point Frank about not capping off the rear port and leaving open to atmosphere. If you look at how the single port Vacuum Canisters are made they are open on the back side going into the inside of the Distribitor.
 
Thanks. Yes, sir- I lived through that era of early emissions efforts. What a mess, It's a big reason the imports got a foothold IMO- our cars went from powerful to milk toast nearly overnight. The question is, when the diaphragm moves toward the advance vacuum source on acceleration, if atmospheric pressure is not available on the back side of it- if it's plugged like 65 Mustangs on post # 32, then a vacuum is produced on the plugged retard side, offsetting the advance signal and the net advance is reduced. The unused line should not be plugged, but should be long enough to allow it to breathe without drawing dirty air from the engine bay. Or a short line with a tiny filter on it, a fuel filter for Sthil trimmers works well, and prevents potential contamination of the retard canister cavity, while allowing the diaphragm to fully respond to the advance signal.
Back in the day when older cars were smog checked in California check balls would be pushed into the retard line because a disconnected or cut and plugged line would fail the smog check. The the check ball would bulge the line and it would be an obvious smog violation if the smog guy was following the rules, many did not.
 
Expanding on my above post if you look at the pictures of the single Vacuum Canister of the rear views shows how its open all the way to the back of the Diafram. So yes that back chamber on the 1968 duel Advance unit needs to be vented to the Atmosphere instead of being capped off. https://www.cjponyparts.com/distrib...MIuKGJho_q9gIVQx-tBh36HQWOEAQYASABEgIWLPD_BwE
Ok. Good to know. I’ll try it and see how it goes. At the moment I’m trying to come up with a way to connect the vacuum hose to the port on the intake manifold. I may purchase that single vacuum canister in the future.
 
I would say the retard line was disabled for good reason.
"On dual-diaphragm distributors, check the vacuum retard operation by connecting the intake manifold vacuum line to the inner side of the diaphragm. Start the engine and adjust the carburetor to its normal idle speed. The initial timing should retard to approximately top dead center (TDC) if the initial ignition timing is correct. On some engines, the timing may retard as far as six degrees after top dead center (ATDC)."
 

Attachments

  • 1968 dual diaphram vac advance.gif
    1968 dual diaphram vac advance.gif
    82.7 KB · Views: 3
Back
Top