That's the way it should work. The "S" post bypasses the resistor wire and provides 12V to the coil when the solenoid is energized.
pedal2themetal45":1icopcdf said:CoME ON GUYS ....
If the chain was slipping he wouldn't be able to re time it.......
It has to be eather the dizzy hold down clamp isn't doning its job and the dizzy is moving, or the points arn't staying put. or finaly maybe the breaker plate is hanging up..
Tim
Bort62":5u1jfwly said:You are running the LOM w/ no vacuum advance?
If so, then you are getting NO advance and will have all sorts of issues.
Bort62":2d81ux1d said:You supply the pizza and beer and I will come fix it for you
frogmn666":p6ch0yif said:I'll take a shot at this. Just because the carb was rebuilt, doesn't mean it is adjusted correctly. I rebuilt my 1100 last week and there are a lot of critical adjustment needed, not counting blowing out all the holes and ports.
The stalling on deceleration is because the "Anti-Stall" Dashpot is not adjusted correctly. If you just bought the GP Sorensen kit and only replaced gaskets and the SCV valve and did not adjust the float, accelerator pump, dash-pot, choke pull down, auto choke unloader then you wasted your money. You may be missing the ball check valves also.
My 66 runs so much better after a complete rebuild to the correct specs.
You may also have a heat related vacumm leak. Torque to spec all your bolts on the manifold, carburetor and adapters when they are hot.
Take a vacuum reading when cold and hot. It sould be steady whether it is hot or cold, but may not be the same. It should be a steady reading at idle or with the throttle part way open.
You or we are overlooking something.
What I want to know is when it quits and you re-adjust the timing, do you set it physically back to where it was when it did run ok? Check the hold down clamp again. I had a 79 Chevy 400 that the hold down did not prevent me from turning the dizzy.
The Sorensen kit from Autozone includes adapter gaskets, so if in doubt, replace them too. I didn't need to. Make sure all the hoses to the carb are leak free.
One way to find a vacumm leak is to use a squirt bottle with water and spray it vigorously on all the intake connectors, hoses and ports. If the rpm changes, you have found the leak.
reweb":1py3jdft said:Thanks for the offer Ian. If you are willing to drive to Santa Cruz I may take you up on it. I will definitely buy the pizza and beer!
Let me see what the compression test tells me.
reweb":cfamcl7a said:[.
I do not have any vacuum leaks. I can get a steady 19 pounds on gauge at idle.
reweb":1k1pv7gc said:frogmn666":1k1pv7gc said:I'll take a shot at this. Just because the carb was rebuilt, doesn't mean it is adjusted correctly. I rebuilt my 1100 last week and there are a lot of critical adjustment needed, not counting blowing out all the holes and ports.
The stalling on deceleration is because the "Anti-Stall" Dashpot is not adjusted correctly. If you just bought the GP Sorensen kit and only replaced gaskets and the SCV valve and did not adjust the float, accelerator pump, dash-pot, choke pull down, auto choke unloader then you wasted your money. You may be missing the ball check valves also.
My 66 runs so much better after a complete rebuild to the correct specs.
You may also have a heat related vacumm leak. Torque to spec all your bolts on the manifold, carburetor and adapters when they are hot.
Take a vacuum reading when cold and hot. It sould be steady whether it is hot or cold, but may not be the same. It should be a steady reading at idle or with the throttle part way open.
You or we are overlooking something.
What I want to know is when it quits and you re-adjust the timing, do you set it physically back to where it was when it did run ok? Check the hold down clamp again. I had a 79 Chevy 400 that the hold down did not prevent me from turning the dizzy.
The Sorensen kit from Autozone includes adapter gaskets, so if in doubt, replace them too. I didn't need to. Make sure all the hoses to the carb are leak free.
One way to find a vacumm leak is to use a squirt bottle with water and spray it vigorously on all the intake connectors, hoses and ports. If the rpm changes, you have found the leak.
Thanks for the comments everyone...
I bought a good rebuild kit that included the scv and ball checks etc. I adjusted the float and dashpot to specs. Carb runs great. Did not change the fact that car dies. My car is a manual trans by the way so the dashpot should not have that much to do with it anyways.
I do not have any vacuum leaks. I can get a steady 19 pounds on gauge at idle.
The timing is no longer moving. Pretty sure it was the svc on the old carb. Not sure though because I changed the timing chain, 2nd distributor and rebuilt carb all at once.
I will do the compression test. (Hopefully today after work) and get back to you guys.
Thanks for the offer Ian. If you are willing to drive to Santa Cruz I may take you up on it. I will definitely buy the pizza and beer!
Let me see what the compression test tells me.
turbo_fairlane_200":1rykzhnx said:has the balancer been checked for slippage?
verify timing is advancing and retarding with a light and running motor?
Bort62":37e8sms3 said:turbo_fairlane_200":37e8sms3 said:has the balancer been checked for slippage?
verify timing is advancing and retarding with a light and running motor?
He has the LOM w/ no vaccum advance hooked up. The timing isnt advancing anywhere.