All Small Six Weber 32/36 won't idle

This relates to all small sixes
K

krbostic89

Active member
Ok Gear heads.

I got my rebuilt inline 6 started and broke it in today! Problem I have now is that I cannot for the life of me get it to stay on at idle.

The set up, I have a Weber 32/36 mated up to a 1v/2v modified '69 250 log head. I also have the holley fuel pressure regulator that is at 2.8 psi that it comes out of the box. I used the Vintage Inlines weber 1v/2v conversion plate. I also have the Duraspark 2, dyna module, and inferno coil for ignition.

I worked through the initial start and tuning stuff from weber and had it set like the advertised. It runs smooth at 1000 rpm when I'm pressing the accelerator, but as soon as it drops, no dice. I was able to do the initial break in just fine, ran it for about 20 minutes cycling it from 2000 to 3000 RPM smoothly.

It just will not idle. Looking for any help or ideas, Thank you so much in advance.
 
It sounds like there isn't enough fuel available from the idle circuit.
Have you adjusted the idle mixture screw?
 
Last edited:
That's good that it's a new carb at least the throdle shafts are tight then. In some of the older site posts there is lots of good Webber tuning info some very good posts were made by by Xctasy and have lots of jetting details.
 
So update from fiddling this morning. Hooked up the vacuum gauge to the port I use for my power brakes and pcv valve. It comes right off the log. I am pulling about 10 in hg at best, so I definitely have a vacuum leak. My guess is that it is as the adapter plate to the log. Is there a gasket or sealant that I should use?
 
Since you explained it's been rebuilt, there are a few possible scenarios that could prevent idle. Instead of chasing the one, if you have the original or any similar carb you may want to try temp. swap to confirm your suspicions.

Any vacuum problems with the carb, adapter, vac lines and the Distributor or timing variables also can seriously affect idle.

Initial start-up of any rebuild is a crap-shoot with replaced Fuel, Ignition and simpler parts needing to all work together. When there's an initial startup problem, I try to think simple.





have fun
 
What camshaft are you running???
Where did you get the DS11 from??
10 degrees initial is way too low.
Do you have the vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum or ported vacuum?? Bill
 
The cam shaft js a clay smith h-6474-0-b. Intake duration 264 exhaust duration 274. Lobe at 110.
I got the ds2 from classic inlines years ago.

Timing is now at 12* after messing with it this morning.

I have the vacuum advance hooked up to the port off the carburetor labeled "vacuum advance" on weber's diagram. I assume it is manifold but I definitely could be wrong.
 
That cam is going to give you a rough idle.
Without the amount of centrifugal advance in the distributor & amount of vacuum advance i can't give you too much help.
With that cam you should be running 16-18 degrees initial advance & run the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum not ported vacuum like you have it.
DO NOT set the initial at 16-18 without knowing whats in the distributor.
The way you have it set your engine will never idle properly.
If you have a C4 trans you really need a converter with a higher stall speed.
Either send me your DS11 to be properly recurved, or purchase one of my DS11's. Look in the small six for sale section & look at mine,
Are you running flat top pistons on dished??
Is the deck zero decked??
Did you mill the later head to get the chamber cc's close to 50??
email me with your name & phone # & the best time to call. Bill
billythedistributorman&live.com
 
Did you ever verify that the secondary throdle plate was closed all the way as pmuller9 asked you? To answer your question no sealer should every be used on carb gaskets. Use some carb spray around the carb base and the 1V to 2V adapter to check for any vacuum leaks. When you take off the carb next time check the imprint on the gaskets to see if they fulley sealing or post a picture of both sides of each gasket. The Webers port in carb's base that you have hooked up to the distributors vacuum advance is not a manifold vacuum source it's a ported vacuum source that won't have any vacuum at idle RPM you can check that with your vacuum gauge to verify that. That's is certainly a very low idle vacuum reading so yes somthing needs to be worked on keep checking each item fixing those that start showing up. Best of luck
 
I apologize, I seem to have stepped on a few toes, I am truly sorry if I have made anyone mad.

The secondary throttle plate is closed all the way, every time that the throttle comes closed, it is closed.

I have replumbed the vacuum advance and closed off the port on the weber. It is now coming from the manifold.

I understand that the cam is going to give me a rough idle, purchased knowing that to be the case. I cannot even get the car to idle at all.

I have a t5 that I purchased through Modern Drivelines.

I am running dished pistons, the rebuilt block had to be over bored to .040. I did not zero the deck.

The head 250 head was milled down. Measured each chamber like described in the performance manual and had the head milled to have each down to 52cc.

I was able to get it to idle, but it was with the idle speed screw all the way in and it idled at about 550 rpm. It was extremely rough, right at the second before stall, but running. I did not adjust the mixture.
 
You did not step on anyone's toes. No one here cares about that. We are just trying to get enough feedback to help you.

Bill (wsa111) is correct that a cam with a lot over overlap duration will not idle if the timing is too retarded.
Try moving the initial timing to 18 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected and see how it responds.
Just don't drive it with that much advance without knowing what the total advance is.
 
If you can you will need to adjust to a 1200 rpm idle speed. At least you have a stick shift.
As pmueller9 said, don't drive it.
 
Good job on the head CC's at 52. However with the replacement .040 over Pistons being down the hole (aproxamately .030 and not zero decking the block your compression ratio is going to be down a bit. If you used a FelPro head gasket it would be 8.67 to 1 this is a little less than a bone stock 1965 to 1968 200 six. In any case these are kind of low when used with that cam and might also explain some of that low vacuum reading at your idle. If you used the Victor head gasket it would be a little better at 8.79 to 1 still only about .09 higher than a stock 200 motor . I don't know what Clay Smith recommends as the compression ratio range for your cam though. Do you remember what your cam degreed at that could also effect your low vacuum reading. Best of luck
 
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