170 rebuild

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Anonymous

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If I want to stick with my original 170 in my mustang and get it rebuilt top to bottom,what are the best things to ask for to get a little more power?I am not looking at racing this thing but would like to be comfortable on the highway.
Thanks
Ponyman
 
Howdy Ponyman:

Good Question and I appreciate your descritpion of your criteria. That helps to form these suggestions. 1st off, What year casting # are you working with? What trans? I'm guessing that this 170 is in a Mustang???

In general when you are doing a top to bottom rebuild it is likely that you will be replacing the cam, cam gears and timing chain, and lifters. You would be wise to not buy stock replacement parts. Best to buy; an aftermarket cam with 260 advertized degrees of duration and lift in the .400" area, a double roller cam timing chain and gears, high quality hydraulic lifters. The right cam will allow you to maintain idle quality and vacuum, and still significantly increase 1,500 to 4,500 rpm performance.

The rest of the bottom end is solid and a basic rebuild will refresh it.

The head is where you will find the most help, but avoid a few pitfals. Be sure to reread the sticky at the top of this forum on "Swapping Heads". Any stock head will benefit from a 3 angle valve job, back cutting the intake valves, polishing the chambers, and measuring chamber volume to confirm your goal Compression ratio.

Finally, your intake, exhaust and ignition systems need to be coordinated to get the most out of the package. The stock system can be improved on, or upgraded. Your choice. The year and type of carb and distributor will be critical considerations if your mix and match.

Your goal of "be comfortable on the highway" will also involve gearing and tire sizing. Start by assessing your rear gear ratio and tire size. Higher gears, lower numbers allow a lower engine speed at 65 mph. If you currently have a 3.5:1 rear gear ratio, changing to a 3.00:1 will lower engine rpm at highway speed, but hurt acceleration. What tranny you have will help in the mix. For example, an auto with a torque converter will help to make up for a too high rear gear.

If you will add more information about what you will be working with we can be more exact in offering suggestions.

That should get you started.

Keep us posted.

Adios, David
 
Thanks David
I have a mustang convertible with the original 170.Other than tuneups,no work has been done on it.I have a C4 transmission and the rearend ,which Ibelieve is the axle ratio is 3.50:1.Single barrel carb.The odometer shows 58,000 and I know it has gone over once maybe twice.Burns a little oil and I drive it but not much.Just want more power.
Thanks for the suggestions and I will use this to take to my rebuilder.Any other suggestions with this info would be welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks
Ponyman
 
Howdy Back:

Again, I'm assuming that this is an original '64 or '65 170. Please check the head casting numbers on the intake manifold, behind the carb. It would also be helpful to know the engine block casting number. It is licated inder the exhaust manifold. Specifically, a C4xx block casting may indicate a solid lifter block, while a C5xx block will most likely be a hydraulic lifter block. The block casting will account for some other changes as well.

Your Load-a-Matic Distributor and carb with a Spark Control Valve are designed to work together. Upgrading to a Petronix Ignitor ignition module, coil and plug wires would help a bunch. You could also step up to a carb from a 200. Your 170 Autolite 1100 is rated at 150 cfm, while the 200 1100 is rated at 185 cfm. You would know it's there.

For highway and town crusin' a 3.25:1 rearend ratio, with an auto, is a better compromise.

Adios, David
 
Hi Again

I looked on my intake manifold right behind the carb and I found the number but its starts with C8DE8090DX5.Atleast thats what it looks like.

Ponyman
 
Ponyman":17tpgdxz said:
Hi Again

I looked on my intake manifold right behind the carb and I found the number but its starts with C8DE8090DX5.Atleast thats what it looks like.

Ponyman

C8 is 1968. What year is your mustang? If you can find the block casting numbers it'll help. How many freeze plugs on the passenger side under the exhaust?
 
Took a look tonight again and it looks like the casting is a C3DE8090DX5 and there is 3 freeze plugs on the passenger side.

Ponyman
 
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