1bbl to 2bbl

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Hi all,

I've been reading this forum for a while now and just decided to join today! -- Lot's of great info. I've got a '65 Mustang with a 200 six. I've up-graded to a pointless distributor and I'm in the process of changing to a 2-barrel Holly carb from Stovebolt. I decided to make my own adaptor plate out of a 1" x 6" x 3" aluminum block. I'm not quite finished, but the attached picture should give you an idea of what I've done. -- I can't wait to get the car back on the road!



adaptor.jpg
 
Welcome to the forum!

Your carb adapter looks darn familiar
http://phlegm.us/FordSix/tech/Induction/Carb_Adapt/DIY/Make_Your_Own.html
mini-DSC01468.JPG


Let me know how it works out, the one I made hasnt been installed yet, and I didnt put in a provision for the PCV, I figured I would just "T" it off the threaded hole in the intake that we used for the dizzy vacuum source when we put in the Duraspark II.

Did you keep the measurements? I am curious to see if we got the same results for the angle. I measured mine to death before making it, but of course I originally made it for a 1.75" opening and at the last possible moment I changed it for a 1.5" which I screwed up :oops:. But it wasnt anything that a larger drill bit couldnt fix :wink: My aluminum chunk was originally a 4x6x.75" but it has been milled down a little thanks to my coworkers retired neighbor, gotta love the old timers.

What have you got for throttle linkage? I am thinking a simple bellcrank, like the one on DuckTang's 5200 Page and drill/tap a hole in the end of the block for a pivot point.

-ron
 
Hi Ron,

Wow! They do look alike! Sorry, I didn't keep the measurements, but I did open up the hole a bit, I think I went for about 1.75", but I may be a bit under that. I plan to mill the head opening to match, so I left a bit extra on the adaptor to make it easier to match them up.

As far as the linkage, I left the adaptor body a bit longer than it needed to be and I drilled and tapped a hole so I can screw in a 2 1/2 to 3" bolt. I plan to use a bell crank too. Once I get it all together and working I'll post some pictures. -- maybe this weekend, if I can find time
 
why dont you guys just pay the 40 and buy mine from me lol that is with shipping mine is brand new
 
mine cost 6$ in material and I can replicate it for the same price now that I got it all planned out. Yours makes the carb face the wrong way (at the fender), and I can get out the letter punches and put "Powered by Ron" on mine :lol:

Oh ya, I also already had a stovebolt adapter that I will most likely not use, unless it works on my '66 230

different strokes for different folks I guess,
-ron
 
I bought a Stovebolt adaptor, too. After modifying it to get the carb facing the right direction and scratching the under side of my hood because it sits up so high, I decided t make my own. The other benefit is being able to port the PCV correctly.

Hey Ron, can put 'Powered by Ron' on mine too?!
 
Only if you can get it in Kanji


also working on my own projects keeps me off the streets, theres some bad elements out there

-ron
 
CoupeBoy":2es34c0s said:
I can get out the letter punches and put "Powered by Ron" on mine.
I've had similar ideas - when I get to casting alternate manifolds, I want to brand them dumb like "Standard" or "Cracked" - or maybe something embarrassing...
 
TO make the stovenolt adapter face the correct way, get a carb base from a mid 70's 200 or 250 and block off the EGR or get one from the early 80's. and bolt the adapter to it. I have pics around of my setup somewhere, I'll see if I can find them and will post.

Kirk
 
Hi Guys.

I have also made TWO of this type of adapter. The reason I made two?? 'Cause I screwed up on the first one!

Have you guys slapped your adapters on your head with the valve cover in place yet?

When I made my first adapter, I centered the Holley/Weber gasket on the one barrel hole. WRONG. I couldn't have the adapter and the valve cover on at the same time.

The second adapter - they are SO easy to make once you've done one - has the one barrel OFFSET to the larger throttle bore of the HW.

HWAdapterDrawing2.jpg



I hope this quick sketch explains/shows the offset I am talking about. The large hole is the 1 3/4 manifold bore hole. ( I use the aluminum factory carb twister as a templet instead of the gasket) The two smaller holes are the H/W throttle bores. Notice that I am offset to the left. The bolt hole with the check mark is NOT to be drilled. It is for reference. It is the mounting bolt hole for the factory twisted carb. That why I use the factory plate instead of the gaskets.

CoupeBoy, what thickness of aluminum plate did you use?

For any of you others reading this, It does make sense to use this adapter - especially on the 1 3/4" manifold. When you turn a carb upside down and open the throttle to wide open. You'll see LOTS of junk looking down through the throttle bore. When you look through the throttle bore into the manifold, you'll see NO obstructions.

How about one of you "math types" figure out the area of a 1 3/4" manifold hole and then the area of a 1 7/16" and a 1 1/4" carb holes. Remembering that the carb holes are full of junk.

Finally, someone's going to ask, "Does this work as well as milling off the carb flange and enlarging the log manifold opening as shown in the Falcon Performance Handbook?" In a word - no. BUT this will cost you $10.00 and a couple of hours of grinding and drilling. Having the Log milled and enlarged will run $60.00. Besides, you can use this project as an EXCUSE to buy that $39.95 drill press from Harbor Freight tools that you've been lusting after.

Hope I've helped.
Good Luck
 
Dennis,
I have only made one of these so far and when I put it on the '66 it is destined to be on there was NO problem with clearance with the stock valve cover and the adapter at the same time. However I did incorrectly measure the distance between the 2 bolts. When I originally started it I called my coworkers neighbor (Don) and asked him which type of tools to use for measure the angle of the OE carb hole in relation to the 5200 carb position. The 5200 is set at 90° to the log. But the OE hole bolts are offset at a 37° degree angle to the log centerline.

My initial peice was made from 3/4" aluminum, but with a 1/4" '78 MII 5200 gasket on it, which allows the flaps (butterflies, venturies, brain fade) to open fully it comes out to be 1" tall.
My aluminum chunk was originally a 4x6x.75" but it has been milled down a little thanks to my coworkers retired neighbor, gotta love the old timers.

I really need to get around to putting this thing on but the weather and the cars owner havent been co-operating. On my webpage (down right now, thanks Qwest!! :? ) I have all the measurements I used along with the pertinant angles, right now I only have them in millimeters my ruler had a metal strip on one side and not on the other, I used the side without the strip. When we made the part we remeasured and did the conversion (mm to in) and it all worked out the same. I have the re-marked paper at home too that I can scan.

-ron
 
I haven't tried mine on the head yet. I used the stovebolt adaptor I had modified to turn the bowl forward as a rough pattern along with the original aluminum plate. The stovebolt adaptor seemed to fit fine and was only about a 1/2" taller, I believe this design should fit, but now you've got me thinking! -- I'll have to try it out tonight. My real concern is whether the choke housing will still clear the valve cover. If not, I'll be going manual.
 
Hey Guys,

I think I see a difference. Mine is for a '69 up 1 3/4 inch throttle bore log and Coupeboy's is for a '66 1 1/2 inch log.

Could that be the difference?

Burnerlief, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Good Luck
 
Dennis,
Actually mine was designed around a '74 250 1.75" head and then at last minute I modified the plan to put it on a '66 200 1.5" head. If you go poke around in the root dir of where I saved all my pics and stuff you will find
Original_Drawing_2.jpg


And you will see that mine is NOT perfectly centered, forward/backward, OR side to side. And I dont know which side ended up being the front :oops: I reallized that as I was filling out the hole to make the funnel.

live and learn I guess
-ron
 
Good news -- it fit! Just barely though! It looks like the choke housing is going to clear too. Just an FYI... mine was made for a '65 200 with the 1.5" throat on the manifold.

Later
 
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