200 crate engine/longblock

Timnmelinda

Well-known member
Ok since our mustang is down till mid spring at the earliest from my Daughter's accident while I again rebuild and repaint, I am thinking about taking a step further.

We had a pretty nice car after we rebuilt it the first time but as soon as it was back on the road it started burning oil, it was a car for my daughter so I just had her deal with it for now.

Since I am rebuilding it, I am thinking I may get a new crate engine or a longblock to put in it now and take care of the problem. Then If I eat the core charge I will also have the original block to strip down and slowly build a proper 200 with all the right parts.

Sounds like a reasonable plan anyway so I am now wondering who has purchased crate engines or long blocks from what places?
Any strong reccomendations either on where to go or where not to go?
Whe3re can I get the best quality and price overall?

I have read some older posts on the subject looking for current ideas.

Thank You

Tim
 
I got my long block delivered from West LA Engine Rebuilding Inc. on La Cienega for $1100 three/four years ago. They had a 1 year guarantee and they shipped to the whole country. They also did a bench run-in before bagging and shipping so the whole block was oiled up. I am very happy with the product but do not ask for anything other than bone stock. They are not equipped to handle it.

http://www.wla-engine.com/default.htm

Next time I will go with ATK. They don't list 6's for a 1966 Mustang, but they do list 200 cid for later years, which is the same thing I learned later (and you all know). They have a great warranty and ship anywhere. The shop is relatively close to me.

http://www.atkengines.com/

I got a 302 V% in my '86 pickup from these guys.
 
Ludwig, which '86 pickup do you have? Also, I would say, since it's going to be down, pull it, build it right once, and then you will save a chunk of change. Why pay for a motor you're just gonna pull once you built the right one? =D
 
Under many circumstances I would agree pull it and do it once
But I need to get daughter back on the road asap
Shee is driving my wifes Jeep to get her and our other daughter round to their schools and related functions, allowing us to not have to leave work early to accomodate them, but I am still doing double duty driving my wife 20 miles to work then driving backand the opposite direction for me to go work, of course I have to pick her up again at the end of the day wich controls how long I can work each day.......it is hectic and the sooner I can get it normal the better

Besides money is a factor on top of all that I have things besides daughter car I am doing , our home is all tore apart as I am involved in major redoing our home, walls, floors, kitchen, bathrooms all of it is in various stages of tore apart and redoing, we are taking walls out here adding walls there it is a BIG project!

I am not a rich man
But in this case it makes sense to pay twice for the car engine.

Tim
 
hmmm, idk, in this case it might even be cheaper to buy her a beater car that she can drive till you get that stang engine rebuilt, then you can sell the beater car assuming she doesnt wreck it :).
 
rommaster2":21vnaw2t said:
hmmm, idk, in this case it might even be cheaper to buy her a beater car that she can drive till you get that stang engine rebuilt, then you can sell the beater car assuming she doesnt wreck it :).

I drove my 68 mustang for awhile and found out it was much more feasible to drive something newer. in my case it was a 500 dollar beater truck. but that was only because I was always takign things apart and trying to make the car faster. Can you get a junk motor to exchange for a core at least? that would help you out some.
 
I have a low milage (under 60K) 1979 200 from a fox stang (complete with carb and all) I could maybe let go for cheap. I was king holding on to it as a backup incase my turbo motor let go but I am in the middle of building a new motor right now so a spare isn't needed anymore. only thing the motor really needs is an exhaust. it has accessory brackets on it and I can put on a alternator for you if you want or you could even just reuse your old parts. pm me for more info.
 
Ludwig, which '86 pickup do you have?


It was an '86 F-150 King Cab with full size bed. I gave it away maybe a year after the new engine install. The electric failures were eating me up. The guy that got it is a wire junkie: communication networks. So it was win/win.

Back to the first question. If it was me, I'd get the girl a dependable car she can take away. And get the motor fixed right (what ever right is).
 
Tim, I bought a crate engine (1965 - 200cid) from the following site: www.findsales.com/parts/engines middle of last year. I believe they are located in Spokane, Washington. The engine was delivered to my house and the costs were as follows: engine / $1,086, core charge/ $200, shipping costs/ $175; for a grand total of around $1,500. I have been pleased with my purchase and have no complaints; the engine runs great. Here is the listing of what is included in their rebuild: Cylinder heads are pressure checked, New valves, new valve springs & keepers, Diamond honed valve guides, Three angle cut valve seats, All head surfaces are broached, Blocks are bored with deck plates cylinder walls are diamond honed, Crankshafts are ground and polished for .002 clearance, Camshafts are ground to O.E.m. specifications, hardened and polished, Connecting Rods are sized to .002 clearance, New pistons, pin bushings, chrome molly rings, timing gears & cam-bearings, timing gears & chain, lifters, push rods, rockers, balls and nuts, oil pump, and gaskets. The warranty is 7years or 70,000 miles. Check out their site! Good Luck! Jim in S.Cal
 
Somebody in Coatesville, PA has a complete 78,000 mile '65 Mustang 200 up on eBay for $150 with no bids yet. It is local pick-up only. Is that anywhere near you? The guy is even throwing in a free C4 if you want it.

It is item number 150095592240. I'd post a link to it but I don't know if that is allowed.
 
Bort62, To be honest with you I don't know what they mean concerning the head and "BROACHING"? I just wrote what it says on the literature they sent. I know the dictionary describes the word "BROACH" as follows: "a tapered bit pulled or pushed through a hole to make the hole larger or of a certain shape". Not being familiar with this term (in regards to engines), could it mean that machinists enlarge the holes, or passage ways, in the head to make sure they are open enough? Just guessing here; anybody know exactly what this term in relation to engines means? Jim
 
I appreciate the mention of the ebay ad
what would you all think about the sounds of the ebay engine, it is located fairly close to me does the price seam reasonable?

as these 200s and Fords in general are new to me is there anything for me to watch out for, look for ?

Any other advice
Tim
 
Grab it, if they have a torque converter and tranny grab that, and start it on the bench. If it sounds good, run it for awhile. If you have an engine stand, pull the pan, see if it needs bearings/rings. Ring it/bearings/gasket set and you should be good to go. =D
 
If I still consider new, what do you think of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/66-69-MU ... dZViewItem

It is rough deciding my budget is pressed at the moment between the house and having to rebuild the car I need time to recoup some monies again but I gotta get her back into her own car so it is tough choosing between rolling the dice with used to be decent for her for awhile or going ahead biting the bullet and getting new ARGH choices sometimes suck!

Tim
 
If you're going to be doing it that way, then I have to give you my opinion on what you should really do. Pull that motor that's in there now, and take it to an engine shop near your house. With a good warranty. Then you will be able to take it to them with any problems, covered work, and you know where they are. It's MUCH better that way. And when you're ready to build YOUR MOTOR, the BIG ONE, get a junkyard motor and go from there. =D Then sell me the 200 that's in there once you go to swap it. =D
 
It would be nice to take care of boring block and rebuilding it my self, I would also enjoy that part as I have never done that before. But with having to get it done for her by late April, the body work I have to do again including a new paint job because I can not color match the 3 stage cany I sprayed on it last time, as well as I still have to work on the house just makes it a little too much in the pile of things to get done

While it is done I would like to take care of the oil burning for her though so that sort of leaves me with buying used or rebuilt since I can only stretch my time so far

Oh I forgot to mention I can not even start til the weather warms a bit more, Our warehouse where I work on the car is unheated, it is just too cold to be laying on the cement and wrenching all the cold steel, and even at that It is not warm enough for me to paint yet and I do not have the cash to rent a place or to buy enough portable heater to make it work there otherwise

Tim
 
Get the ebay $150 one or a local junkyard one and bolt it in. With a local junkyard (mustang or fairmont etc) you might even be able to hear it running. I f this engine is going to be a quick-fix then don't worry about the small stuff. If you see it running and it's not knocking or smoking then there is enough miles left in it for a "quick-fix".

If I heard the eng running I wouldn't even pull the pan, change the oil and drop it in. It's gotta last for a while, it's an inline six for crying out loud!
 
goinbroke2":1gf3rlon said:
If I heard the eng running I wouldn't even pull the pan, change the oil and drop it in. It's gotta last for a while, it's an inline six for crying out loud!

*knocks on wood*
 
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