200 short block mostly assembled. Some questions

[edgewood bronco]

FINALLY, Progress!
I found myself snowed in Saturday with a fresh block and a pile of parts and some torque wrenches. I've got the crank, pistons and cam in, have put a cam degreeing wheel on the crank, but haven't gotten any farther tonight. Looking ahead, a couple of questions have popped up.

1: on the CI website (http://classicinlines.com/CamInstall.asp) it says this: "Lifters should not be soaked overnight." What's that mean? I remember priming lifters (pumping the plunger until the bubbles stopped flowing) in an oil bath the last time I built an engine a few years ago. Is this what I'm not supposed to do? Putting them in dry doesn't seem like a good idea...

2: Why doesn't anybody I read use the harmonic balancer capscrew to install the harmonic balancer? Is it just the danger of catching only the first turn of threads and ripping them out as it's getting started?

3: I have an Engine Pro stock timing set that has only one key way cut in it. If I need to advance the cam timing, What are my options? I don't see an offset key on the CI site, nor a non-dual roller crank sprocket. Anybody recommend a source for either? Is there one more durable than the other?

Thanks Much!

 

[rbohm]

FINALLY, Progress!
I found myself snowed in Saturday with a fresh block and a pile of parts and some torque wrenches. I've got the crank, pistons and cam in, have put a cam degreeing wheel on the crank, but haven't gotten any farther tonight. Looking ahead, a couple of questions have popped up.

1: on the CI website (http://classicinlines.com/CamInstall.asp) it says this: "Lifters should not be soaked overnight." What's that mean? I remember priming lifters (pumping the plunger until the bubbles stopped flowing) in an oil bath the last time I built an engine a few years ago. Is this what I'm not supposed to do? Putting them in dry doesn't seem like a good idea...

it makes it harder to get a proper assembly lube to stick to the lifters when you soak them in oil.

2: Why doesn't anybody I read use the harmonic balancer capscrew to install the harmonic balancer? Is it just the danger of catching only the first turn of threads and ripping them out as it's getting started?

i have done just this when rebuilding my old 289. however the balancer bolt on that engine is long enough to get more than a couple of threads engaged before pressing the balancer in place. it takes a fair amount of force to press fit the balancer, and you dont need the threads in the crank getting damaged. if you have access to an installation tool, use it, it does make things much easier. the other thing you dont have to worry about is possibly cross threading the balancer bolt and again ruining the threads in the crank.

3: I have an Engine Pro stock timing set that has only one key way cut in it. If I need to advance the cam timing, What are my options? I don't see an offset key on the CI site, nor a non-dual roller crank sprocket. Anybody recommend a source for either? Is there one more durable than the other?

Thanks Much!

you can find offset keys at places like summit racing. you are going to have to measure your stock key though and then search the available keys to find one that is similar to yours. my best advice in this case is to dump the stock type timing set and go with the roller set from classicinlines. it is a well made piece with multiple key ways. and it is far more durable than the stock replacement parts.

 

[edgewood bronco]

Thanks rbohm.
I was hoping to not have to spend another slug of cash on the timing set, but probably my best bet.

Presumably then the lifters are pre-lubed well enough from the manufacturer that starting them without priming is fine. I'll admit to being caught up on this. What if I assembly lube them, then prime them?

I'll see if I can come up with an installation tool.


Thanks for the help. I'm sure this won't be my last question...

 

[rbohm]

Thanks rbohm.
I was hoping to not have to spend another slug of cash on the timing set, but probably my best bet.

i can understand that, however chances are that your cam will be just fine after you degree it, and you wont need to make any corrections. thus i suggest waiting until after you have degreed the cam to decide whether or not you need to adjust it.

Presumably then the lifters are pre-lubed well enough from the manufacturer that starting them without priming is fine. I'll admit to being caught up on this. What if I assembly lube them, then prime them?

you will still run into issues. the best way is to use the assembly lube in liberal amounts, and install the lifters. then once the entire engine is assembled, you then prelube the entire engine by running the oil pump with a drill.