200 suddenly not starting

08HybridOK

Well-known member
Hope this the right forum; and I feel stupid asking this question; but the other day went to start the Falcon, turn the key, & nothing! No warning signs of anything going weak last time it was run; solid starting, etc.

In the run position, get the warning lights & radio, turn to start, nothing, no clicking, no sounds at all.

Batt has 12V;s on it, recharged it anyway as it's been sitting for a month or so, and some really cold temps. I've never changed the battery since buying the car 4+ years ago too (so could be dead enough to not crank?) With charger in 'jump start' mode, still no cranking.

No click from the solenoid when turning the key. I'm assuming that if I jumper from the + side of the batt to the wire on the starter; it should crank, right? When I tried that, I got some sparks, no noise/crank from the starter.

I also had the tranny rebuilt a few months ago, so could be the neutral/park safety switch? (I instantly though of this as I normally leave it in neutral so I can push it around the garage floor) I moved to Park, neutral, etc, and still nothing when trying to start.

So where would you start trouble shooting? (where is the Neutral safety switch at? How do I test it?) Can I put straight 12V from the batt to one of the small termi
 
Turn the head lights on. are they good and as bright as usual? if so
Without turning them off turn the key all way to crank, and look at the wall or whatever the hedlights are shining on. do the head lights go out when you tun to crank?? If there is no change there is no connection between the starter and batt.
If the lights go out it is pulling juice.
 
The neutral safety switch is on the driver's side of the transmission where the selector lever comes up toward the floor. It is a crescent shaped, grey metal thing about 3" or less across. It is possible that the adjustment for the selector lever has come out of whack. I had to do this a couple times and fixed it but now I forget exactly how it is done.

IIRC, you loosen the 2 bolts that hold the chrome selector lever, pull the tranny selector as far back as possible to the L (low) positionwith your fingers and retighten. That sets the thing up correctly and you will hit the right spots on the safety switch. Sometimes it has trouble going into Park if it is not adjusted properly.

Plus, you can jigger with the the selector lever to find the sweet spot even if it will not latch at the detent. The safety switch is just a plastic crescent with contacts at the park and neutral position.

That is only one thing that can be wrong. If you have power, all the electrical stuff should work: radio, lights, cigarette lighter, heater blower. If it is the starter switch, only the switched stuff will not go on: heater blower, radio, etc. But these will also go on at the Acc position. Might be a bad ground has developed from corrosion if it has been sitting too long. Check all the connections from starter to starter relay.

If all else fails, jiggle the key around and see if it makes contact that way. Then it actually is the ignition switch. I have had problems when it rains because the vent louvers are directly over the ignition switch and it will short out without warning and the engine dies.
 
Thanks, ya'll are fast & good tips.

Posts all look clean, no corrosion. I did tighten the solenoid cables, didn't check the starter connections yet.

Looks like it's something with the switch, moved the shifter through all the positions, then started wiggling the key around some and it started cranking!

So is there something I can fix/tighten up behind the dash/ignition switch, or is it just a R&R part?

If I replace the switch, whats the difference between the ignition switch ($15), and ignition cylinder & keys($7)?
 
Ignition switch is relatively cheap in the neighborhood of $30 when I replaced five years ago. Just get the switch. You can keep the lock. That little hole next to the slot is for a straightened paper clip. You poke it in the hole and turn the cylinder around to where it pops out. I think you need the key for that but a 14 year old could do it with a screwdriver and paper clip in 1966.

The ignition switch is fairly easy to replace. There is a back cover with all the connections. You unscrew a nut and pull it straight back. Then you pull the whole switch apparatus toward you to depress the retainer spring and turn. It will pop off. Don't lose the tin cup. It is a spacer and keeps the spring holding the switch in tension. You can do the wire transfer before or after the switch thing comes off. I found it easier to takes the wires off first.

Installation is reverse of disassembly. This diagram shows the switch from the engine compartment side so you can see what comes off the rear of the switch.

http://midlife66.com/wiring/66ignit.jpg
 
Thanks. Will replace the switch only then.

But now CRAP; my local parts store (classicautparts.com) lists a switch for 60-64 & 66-67 Falcons, WTH?! Why no 65!!!! :shock: :!:

Google a 65 switch, and other places list 60-65. Think it's just a typo? Alto when I went to get a key from them, the 65 ignition key is different than what they had it listed in the catalog.
Guess I could remove mine before I order a new one to be sure...
 
Is your ignition key a single or double sided? If it's a double than the 66 - 67 listing should work if it's a single than the early switch is the one.
 
I forgot to mention in my answer that what holds the ignition switch is the front bezel in the dash panel. So when you get the switch depressed (by pulling it toward you), it will release from the bezel. When you release tension on the switch gizmo, the bezel, cup and spring will all fall down and you have to collect them and not lose any part.
 
Thanks for the tip. Before I pull mine, do you know if its a 3 or 4 blade? Oreily lists 2 models, but autozone just 1. Obsolete Ford, just a few miles the other direction from me; but they only list a 60-64. So I may just need to pull it first to be sure...
 
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