200ci+turbo

[66Sprint6]

hey man,
I appreciate that, I will post pics like nuts if I can ever get this goin, you know, lol. Because of you guys I will keep on it till it happens or somethin better happens for me! I understand the too big lag, too small no lag too hot thing. Thats why I wonder if the volvo one isnt too bad. I was thinkinbout gettin a good silver intercooler and puttin on a cobra front valence so it kinda peeks out Not too sure tho, will prolly try the volvo one and hide it up front behind the bumper and lower valance. Still, I was thinkin the cobra open front end with a chin spoiler to direct the air to the intercooler ) Sounds fun to me at least.
Matt
Oh, I still need to know about fuel dispersion with my Holley 2300. Im gonna try to make a pressure box for it and then what. I heard I have to do somethin with the fuel sending unit or somethin, what can I do???

 

[Anonymous]

Oh, I still need to know about fuel dispersion with my Holley 2300. Im gonna try to make a pressure box for it and then what. I heard I have to do somethin with the fuel sending unit or somethin, what can I do???

I'm skipping to CFI and some kinda box. I'm not gonna drill holes into my intake, unless I find a backup intake.

db

 

[Anonymous]

For intercooler (IC) mounting, I was thinking along the lines of a cold-air set-up similar to MustangGeezer's (I think it was MG's- the one feeding 2 ducts into the air cleaner). The IC would mount in open space in the driver's side of the engine compartment. Duct from outside directly onto the IC. That way, it's protected from rocks and it doesn't block the radiator at all (when compared to mounting on the from of a Cobra valence- I had that thought, too). Gets cooler air onto the IC for maximum cooling.

Intake would be similar- Cold-air duct to an air box (with air filter) then through to the compressor inlet in an effort to get the coolest air I can start with.

That's the way it's set up on my VW Passat. My only concern is the distance the air has to travel to get from the compressor to the IC and back to the intake. Not sure how much lag that would introduce. More thought may be required.

I had thought about using one of the brake duct holes on a Cobra valence to feed the IC, but decided that if I get one of those, I'll want to actually use the ducts to cool the brakes. With all the HP, I'll need to be able to stop too.

just my $0.02

--mikey

 

[Anonymous]

the block crank and rods will be happy in a 16 psi enviroment provided they are healty so get them fully tested (crack etc..).

my own one run standard rods/crank/block and makes 740hp @32psi and 5800rpm.

i just a set of hyperutectic pistons as well. and some arp rod bolts. have the block o-ringed and if ur using the old cast iron head have it o-ringed too.

a set of crome-moly pushrods some roller rockers and a mild towing cam will see the drive train. if you are getting the cylinder head poted try to get the intake /exhaust ratio up to about 75 percent (more if you can)

run a standard head gasket not a metal one, as i like to have the head gasket as a weak link in the system. if soething goes wrong the head gasket is the first to blow thus saving (7times outa 10) ur bottom end.

as for a intercooler you cannot go past a good front mount cooler. i use a ex-truck i/c it mesures 700x350x76mm but you wont need one that large.

the mazda rx7 series 4 intercooler is a damn good thing it has the high flow and cooling ratings then all other factory fitted cooler from japan bar the mighty nissan skyline gtr. they go for 200 bux in aust. so they arnt too expensive.

oh and research ur efi!!!!!

cheers.joe.

 

[Anonymous]

run ur i/c piping as short as posible and pay particular atention to the end tank shaping of the cooler.make the piping come into the end tanks the same way as the cooler direction is have the tanks smooth and curved as well , and dont make them too large(thats if you decide to have a cutom cooler).

cheers.joe.

 

[Anonymous]

On EFI, is TBI going to give me the same lean 1-6, rich 3-4 issues as a carby? This'll be on an OZ 250-2V. Anyone making manifolds for that head that would adapt easily to port injection? I Plan on running the system with a MegaSquirt.

If TBI will work okay, I've got my eye on a GM-style throttle body from Holley that's rated to 300HP.

--mikey

 

[CobraSix]

Yes, TBI will give the same fuel mix problems as a carb. As far as on an Aussie head, don't know how big the problem is compared to the log heads.

I don't think it would be that big of a problem going MPI on the Aussie head. If you ever decide to revert back, just thread some plugs in there.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Intercooling is all well and good, until it gets heatsoaked..

I was thinking about a home-made air-water intercooler unit the other week, where one creates a waterjacket around an intercooler unit, and has a water pump of some description pump water to and from a radiator.. due to the higher heat conductivity of water it should do a better job than an air-air unit, and it doesnt also have to be mounted to face a direct stream of air, it just needs pipes to circulate the water from the jacket, also helping throttle response..

out of interest, has anyone known of this to work out well? Or does it have nasty bugs in it, like corrosion of the cooler?

 

[Anonymous]

discokin6-

water to air (w2a) is great for a street car with efficeint turbo's also drag cars benefit from it as the drag run never goes for anylonger then 15-20 sec.

the great thing about w2a is that water can asorb 5 times more heat then air. and for general street driving (ie. stop start) it is good. for circut set ups its not as good as a good fmic air air set up as water whilst slow to fully heat up will also be very slow to cool down properly. and in circut cars the car is constantly moving.

when in drag racing they put ice in the resivour so to drop inlet temps below 0 degrees thus allowing a greater timing advance and thus more power.

the cost is generaly a little bit more then the fmic and there's a rather large weight diference between the a/a and w2a set ups...

w2a set ups have the cooler,pump,resivour,heat exchanger,30 odd ;liters of water, coolant lines,boost pipes.

a/a set ups have cooler,boost pipes and thats all.

personly i prefer the fmic a/a set up as ity a lot more simple and if you have a good bar and plate fmic you wont get heat soak as it will radiate the heat very easily.

cheers.joe.

 

[addo]

With wate to air you could run Peltier effect diodes with cold side to the water. :roll:

 

[66Sprint6]

Ok
I have things goin in the right direction, but what fuel sending unit or pump should I look to get while I still have my carb. Should I look at an electric one off a turbo car or what. I need to know so I can get my parts list goin! Thanx for the help guys, yall keep it goin
Matt