223 head swap

[az1958f100]

Hello All, I have a leaky head gasket and a lot of miles on my 223 engine (1958 f100). Recently found a 223 rebuilt head with hardened seats with low miles. Was wondering if all 223 heads swap nicely? Any obstacles I would face in switching heads? What should I look for when examining this rebuilt head? And, what is a fair price? Thanks! $150?
Thanks
Robert

 

[bubba22349]

You should really ask this question in the vintage six section. Though yes the 223 for the most part swap easy there are some small differences between early engines and late. A check of the casting numbers of the two heads would help to figure that out. There were some different rocker arms options (zero lash) and valve covers but if you have all the right items they will bolt on. Have been looking for a 1958 car engine head casting for my project. Good Luck

 

[az1958f100]

Thanks Bubba, I'll post in here from now on with regard to my engine. Would you have suggestions on what to look for when I take a look at the rebuilt head I might buy?

 

[bubba22349]

The main thing would be dose it have hard seats on exhaust to live with unleaded fuel, Valves that are sitting up high (ie not recessed), and a good flat gasket ie resurfaced. Over the years (1954 to 64) most everything is the same and will interchange, the bolt paterns same layout on the manafoulds one exception is last year or two the valve covers bolted down differant, still will work if you find the right V.C. Would need pictures or casting numbers to go much more specific on the info.

 

[Renegade]

Where are the casting date number/codes stamped, and how do you decode them?

 

[bubba22349]

I don’t have a 223 engine apart right now for a head number location; the casting numbers will show up as raised letters and number on the part. The head with the valve cover off it could be in top surface next to valves and or be unbolted from block some of the casting numbers are seen looking up towards the head gaskets deck surface. For an example of a casting number check the block center mass down near the oil pan rail on drivers side. The 223 came out in 54 so with your 58 we might see a 1954 casting up to a B7 or B8 number so head number for a 58 might be B8AE 6015

This decodes B8 = 1958
A = Designed for a full size Ford
E = Engine

6015 = a Block.

A few of common part number these are Fords generic id for engine parts

Engine block 6015 Cylinder head 6090 Intake manifold 9425

Distributor 12127 Camshaft 6250 Crankshaft 6303

Connecting rods 6205


Casting numbers will get you close but don't always tell you the whole story because it is when part was first designed and these parts can be used for many years. When they make a design change (i.e. part has been revised or improved from the original design then a casting number will show that “for example with an A at end” if the part stays the same than casting would just be carried through out several years with same number.

To know what the actual year of the engine head, block, etc. you will need to find the casting date. This date code will also be cast on the block (or Head, Manifold, etc.) it will tell you the exact day when the part was cast. They will consist of numbers and letters for an example 8 E 12 with the first number of 9 being the year; this would then be used with the casting number above for decade and year. D is for month of May, and 12 for the day so would be May 12, 1958.

A = January
B = February
C = March
D = May
E = April
F = June
G = July
H = August
I = September
J = October
K = November
N = December

Hope that helps you some.

 

[az1958f100]

Hey Bubba, Thanks for all your help and your wealth of information! I took a look at my block casting numbers: EBP-6015-L. Any idea on what EBP stands for and the L? I wonder if this is the original engine. Found a running 223 for sale in tucson craigslist. Thinking about rebuilding that one.

2 more questions: What's the purpose of putting two or three carbs on some of these fancier offenhauser intakes? When people do that, do they stick with the original 1904 carbs? Thanks a ton!

 

[Renegade]

2 more questions: What's the purpose of putting two or three carbs on some of these fancier offenhauser intakes? When people do that, do they stick with the original 1904 carbs? Thanks a ton!

Performance and looks. Yes, people will use their 1904's and their 1960's(very similar to a 1904).

Although I argue that the gains of more carburetion on a stock motor is basically nothing, there is probably a little something. Honestly I think it's just "bling" for people who have money. The manifolds are somewhat expensive and finding glass-bowled carbs is getting very hard. So when you see someone with a triple offenhouser and three glass bowls sitting atop it, you're looking pretty spiffy.

 

[bubba22349]

EBP-6015-L. Any idea on what EBP stands for and the L? I wonder if this is the original engine.

I would have to dig out my old books to decode but can tell you the EBP-6015 casting number is the orig. block number they used in 1954 when the 223 first came out (my Customline has same block #). This block was used in many years so to zero in you need the date code of the casting. 54 was also when they started using this type numbering system and in about 59 it was changed some more is simpler and is still in use. L might be Ford Parts and Service Division or Industrial Engine Operations so maybe a replacement block again would have to find my old books. Only way to know for sure is start looking for all the date codes on different parts they should be around the same time as final assembly of the truck (Vin tag on door) usually about two weeks or so before. Every 223 block is basically the same and will swap, even the bigger 262 will bolt in place of a 223 with minor work.

What's the purpose of putting two or three carbs on some of these fancier offenhauser intakes? When people do that, do they stick with the original 1904 carbs?

Mostly to give little better performance though some old timers say that they even get better gas mileage with a pair of 1904’s over the stock single. I have not tried it yet to verify that but it may work if a person actually drove for best mileage. Have a new Offy 2x1 and was looking for a 1904 carb or two for my 54. Also have a Mallory duel point dist., coil, Clifford intake (uses a 390 CFM Holley 4V) and used set of headers for a pickup, some other new performance and stock engine parts.

 

[az1958f100]

Hey Bubba, I'll keep an eye open for a 1904 carb for you, there's a couple floating around southern arizona. A couple other questions if you have time. How do headers and intake give more power? Do you have to modify anything to fit a set of headers on the 223? Different type of gasket? Do headers fit alongside the stock intake?
Thanks

 

[bubba22349]

How do headers and intake give more power?

Yes the intake can make more power because it allows the engine to breathe better (less restriction). And yes Headers also help because they will flow better than the stock exhaust manifold (again less restriction to get it out again).

Do you have to modify anything to fit a set of headers on the 223?

Set I have is for a pickup with all the room they have with a 223 are about as easy as it gets to bolt on. Yes you would need to modify the exhaust pipes to fit or the collectors (this set has two so could be used as duels or Y'ed into a single muffler. I am looking for something to use in my 54 car like Fenton exhaust manifolds or headers if you happen to run across some in your travels.

Different type of gasket?

Yes usually you would want to use a header type gasket though sometimes you can use a stock one with the orange hy temp silicone on metal side.

Do headers fit alongside the stock intake?

Yes though a group of performance parts used together will give the most benefit

 

[panelbeater]

Since the Offenhauser intakes pop up in this thread I thought it best to ask here...

Just wondering if anyone has played around with the Offy 2x1 intakes with one carb firing as a secondary? Or would this be best achieved with a 3 barrel Offy intake set-up?

Thanks!

 

[bubba22349]

It can be done don't remember ever seeing anyone running a progressive 2 X 1 setup though. It's not hard to try it out just a simple linkage change from one way to the other. My best guess is a 3 x 1 would be better for a progressive set up.

 

[panelbeater]

Thanks Bubba, had a feeling someone would chime in and say exactly that.
I guess the other option would be a progressive 2 barrel with a 1v to a 2v adapter on the stock intake....

Good to have a clarification anyways.