250 inline six newbie

64falcon

New member
well i bought a maverick parts car for my falcon and it is running. I plan on doing some work to it before i put it in my falcon. I have about 750 dollars to work with, first to go is the crappy carb the guy put on. It didnt even have a air cleaner on it when i got it. I know it has some kind of msd on it. What would be the first thing to do to if it were you and had 750 dollars to spend.
 
8) the very first thing i would do is freshen up the bottom end, new rings, and bearings, along with a new oil pump and upgraded fasteners, arp is the best. you need a solid bottom end if you want a long lasting engine.

next would be a new cam and lifters and a header.

after that would be a two barrel conversion, preferably a direct mount conversion.

if you have electronic ignition already i would reuse it.
 
rbohm":1695tecl said:
8) the very first thing i would do is freshen up the bottom end, new rings, and bearings, along with a new oil pump and upgraded fasteners, arp is the best. you need a solid bottom end if you want a long lasting engine.

next would be a new cam and lifters and a header.

after that would be a two barrel conversion, preferably a direct mount conversion.

if you have electronic ignition already i would reuse it.

Can all of that be done for only $750?
 
i think that getting the bottom end could be done for around 750 for the rest i wouldnt think so carb would be around 200 if i could find a good used one, cam, lifters,header, and getting a direct mount conversion all that alone i figure over 1000.
 
64falcon":3bw5yrsy said:
i think that getting the bottom end could be done for around 750 for the rest i wouldnt think so carb would be around 200 if i could find a good used one, cam, lifters,header, and getting a direct mount conversion all that alone i figure over 1000.

Thanks for including Us in ur start up.
R U 'handy", (or do U wanna learn/R already knowledgeable?) do U have time, tools, a place (some Xs w/these U don't need money!)...
Don't reject the carb too soon...what is it? $10 I've seen for a GOOD re-buildable carb if U put in a lill for prts u can end up w/a goodun.
What will the Falcon be for? daily driver? strip? show?

"...Casting code on the head?..." & it's carb (now U got 2 carbs!)?
 
Im going to be using as a weekend all around car I guess I could say. I'll go over to my granddad house tommorow to figure out the casting number. As the know how i dont have for the handy with the wrench and the want to learn i do have. I think im going to worry about the bottom end for now then work my way up. Also as for time i have 3 months till basic training then after that I dont know.
 
"...all around car..."

then that carb may B a goodun for that application, I think it's original (eventho the PO may have put it on). The numbers (it's been awhile & I'm not really 'in the know') will be grouped on the front, or is it the side. Anyway I think they'll be grouped with a begining of < YF >. I'll hafta wait for one of the more experienced guys to show up...
;- )
Sounds like you will be busy before you head out (to North Carolina? Texas? CA?)
 
I'm be blunt and honest....

$750 can rebuild the engine, but don't to that... if need be replace piston rings and cam.. something 260-264 range with 112 lobe centers. simple and strong.
a 1bbl CARTER YF carb from junk yard is roughly $30-60 or rebuild your own (don't know what you got), and buy a rebuild kit and go to town.
the head, replace springs (maybe a valve if they are bad, but i doubt), and clean it, possible mill for 9.5 CR ($120 here locally)... nothing else. it's not worth the money. and a new SINGLE exhaust system front to back with 2 inch diameter
You already have a DSII, get it re-curved usually $75 plus shipping

you can easily get 120+hp out of this engine for $750, just the catch is, YOU have to do it YOURSELF. and it will stay bullet proof stock form, for a street machine, you don't need $150 in ARP bolts, $100 double roller timing chain, $1400 head work, $300+ high ratio rockers, or $400 headers.

things to consider after inspecting what you have,
Oil Pump... get stock, it's cheap replacement but if you find your old one is just as tight and the new one... use the old.
Harmonic ballancer, check yours, most likely it's usable and good. check TDC, most of the time it's still good.
torque converter (or flywheel/PP/Clutch resurface/replace)
re-balance rotational assembly of engine. (this is a positive, you'll NEED a shop to do it but it's NOT NEEDED, you'll be perfectly safe without)

good luck and let us know what you want out of this engine.
 
MPGmustang":895szszg said:
I'm be blunt and honest....

$750 can rebuild the engine, but don't to that... if need be replace piston rings and cam.. something 260-264 range with 112 lobe centers. simple and strong.
a 1bbl CARTER YF carb from junk yard is roughly $30-60 or rebuild your own (don't know what you got), and buy a rebuild kit and go to town.
the head, replace springs (maybe a valve if they are bad, but i doubt), and clean it, possible mill for 9.5 CR ($120 here locally)... nothing else. it's not worth the money. and a new SINGLE exhaust system front to back with 2 inch diameter
You already have a DSII, get it re-curved usually $75 plus shipping

you can easily get 120+hp out of this engine for $750, just the catch is, YOU have to do it YOURSELF. and it will stay bullet proof stock form, for a street machine, you don't need $150 in ARP bolts, $100 double roller timing chain, $1400 head work, $300+ high ratio rockers, or $400 headers.

things to consider after inspecting what you have,
Oil Pump... get stock, it's cheap replacement but if you find your old one is just as tight and the new one... use the old.
Harmonic ballancer, check yours, most likely it's usable and good. check TDC, most of the time it's still good.
torque converter (or flywheel/PP/Clutch resurface/replace)
re-balance rotational assembly of engine. (this is a positive, you'll NEED a shop to do it but it's NOT NEEDED, you'll be perfectly safe without)

good luck and let us know what you want out of this engine.

8) i agree with most of what you wrote, i bolded the part where i feel differently. upgrading to ARP bolts, and a good roller chain are durability items, and worth the money imo. otherwise excellent advice.
 
rbohm":yz688mrq said:
8) i agree with most of what you wrote, i bolded the part where i feel differently. upgrading to ARP bolts, and a good roller chain are durability items, and worth the money imo. otherwise excellent advice.

Reason to not need ARP and Double roller is because the stock has lasted 40+ years... if it was going to break it wouldn't be running... now IF they need to be replace sure, add some insurance, but I highly doubt that ARP bolts will make the engine run smoother... maybe the timing chain set but CL has some slack in the timing chain set ( i should know as I have one ) and someone on here has made a video of the same issue and decided in the video to stick with the stock setup.

that's $250 of savings in my opinion. with a $750 budget that's a BIG chuck of change... not everyone can afford everything, and for me sure I can afford it but I wish i knew back then what I know now, hind sight is always 20/20.

as it stock and Naturally Aspirated, stock bolts will do just fine. Forced Aspiration is ONLY when I would get stronger bolts. when I get my 250 rebuild I'm gonna use standard as much as I can, even with the alum head.
 
64falcon":15zm0wga said:
Can't get a double roller for a 250.
Not entirely true.. maybe there isn't one sold for a 250, but one fits..
SBF timing set installed on Kelly's 250!
MPG, you and I sound like we are on the same page.. if the motor runs and everything checks out (oil pressure, same or similar compression across all cylinders) no major oil leaks, no valve related issues, I just like to run them. Of course you have to plan for repair at a later time, which hopefully never comes, but even with a fresh rebuild you have to plan for a catastrophic loss, so I tend to risk being on the cheap side..
 
I think im just going to check it out see if everything is sound and do a cam rebuild my carve dual out header dress it up a bit. Call it good for now.
 
MPGmustang":1nckyh60 said:
rbohm":1nckyh60 said:
8) i agree with most of what you wrote, i bolded the part where i feel differently. upgrading to ARP bolts, and a good roller chain are durability items, and worth the money imo. otherwise excellent advice.

Reason to not need ARP and Double roller is because the stock has lasted 40+ years... if it was going to break it wouldn't be running... now IF they need to be replace sure, add some insurance, but I highly doubt that ARP bolts will make the engine run smoother... maybe the timing chain set but CL has some slack in the timing chain set ( i should know as I have one ) and someone on here has made a video of the same issue and decided in the video to stick with the stock setup.

that's $250 of savings in my opinion. with a $750 budget that's a BIG chuck of change... not everyone can afford everything, and for me sure I can afford it but I wish i knew back then what I know now, hind sight is always 20/20.

as it stock and Naturally Aspirated, stock bolts will do just fine. Forced Aspiration is ONLY when I would get stronger bolts. when I get my 250 rebuild I'm gonna use standard as much as I can, even with the alum head.

8) in regards to the timing chain, i consider that a wear item, and i ALWAYS replace the timing chain and gears when i freshen up or rebuild an engine. even if it means using stock replacement items. i will agree with you on the fasteners though.
 
Back
Top