2v Holley direct mount linkage?

[PhantomAce]

Trying to mount a Holley 2-barrel on the kid's "Parts Car" project, and am trying to sort out the throttle linkage.
Hoping maybe somebody here has a set up worked out that we can imitate.
Trying to avoid drilling a hole in the valve cover for an anchor point if at all possible, but the linkage/cable has to pull directly.

Below is a couple of pictures of the engine and the carb in the orientation it needs to be in.
Any suggestions?
Pictures and part numbers would be a great help...

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi again PA.Why drill a hole in the valve cover?Use one of the VC hold down bolts to hold a home brew bracket.Neat but not gaudy.
Leo

 

[Gene Fiore]

Sent u a pm

 

[powerband]

' simplest way would be source an "over the valve cover" OEM bracket form any straight six cable pedal car. Second, you could "brew" up a similar bracket. I'v used MAverick type cable setup with all kinds of carbs.

Here's the 2300 (7448) with Mav' bracket, 5200H/W and 3X1 Holleys - hope it will help get you going...

<> <> <> <>

cable bracket attaches to coil bracket and carb flange fasteners. Pedal itself in car needs simple mods also because firewalls are different.


HAve Fuv









,.

 

[Gene Fiore]

Say powerband, your setups look cool, but the oem throttle bracket you are using won't work when the throttle mount point is facing the front of the motor as in when using a direct mount because the carb has to be mounted with the bowl facing away from the valve cover placing the throttle too far forward. I ended up making my own bracket that mounts to the valve cover. Crude but it works.

 

[powerband]

Say powerband, ... the oem throttle bracket you are using won't work ... the throttle too far forward. I ended up making my own bracket that mounts to the valve cover. Crude but it works.
]

Thanks, I'll file that for reference

That's not crude - that's COOL... typical fabbing is usually better than OEM .


PB 8)

 

[Crosley]

I built a cable mount that uses 2 bolts of the carb base as the mount spot

I bought a throttle cable kit from Speedway motors... nearly immediately broke the cable end off. I bought a motorcycle clutch cable ( used) from a local shop and used the inner cable. That was 2 yrs ago. My throttle pedal assembly came out of another Ford car..I forget what model

couple of fotos... I think I have them the correct size for this forum:

full view of setup on my 200 engine;

 

[PhantomAce]

Gene:
Got your PM, thanks for the quick reply!
By the way, as I stated earlier, you made my kid's day when that carb showed up!


Everybody:
Thanks for the replies and pictures!
A set-up similar to what Crosley shows is almost exactly what my son and I were discussing trying to do last night. Concern was whether or not just attaching at the inner front and back carb bolts would be sufficient to hold without "rocking" the fabbed adapter from the pull and spring pressure, and whether it would give sufficient throw on the radius. My son wanted to try to attach a "U" shaped mount at all 4 bolts and then run an elevated and gusseted joint at the corner in front of the linkage, but I was thinking it would be overkill and ugly. Crosley's set-up looks like it will work without having to go through making up a piece that big. We were trying to avoid drilling the valve cover and/or covering up the "Power By Ford" script, and it appears that we can probably keep it limited to just along the top edge of the script.
(You have no idea how much sanding, painting, wet-sanding and clear coating went into getting that finish on the VC, the pictures don't do it justice.)
Thanks Crosley!
Think we might have to start up the grinder and welder in a little bit...

Then, I guess we get to figure out how to get a cable attached to the pedal side, which will probably be my next tech/picture request. (Just giving fair warning!)


Thanks again everybody!

 

[PhantomAce]

OK... we aren't completely finished with the bracket yet, but the pictures below should give everyone an idea of what we came up with. The entire bracket is made of 3/4" x 1/8" angle and flat stock, so it's plenty beefy I think. It is designed to keep everything above the valve cover, below the plane of the carb hat, and leave as much of the script on the valve cover uninterrupted as is realistically possible by keeping as much of it tight to the body of the carb as we can and still provide a rigid structure. By the way, the silly little compound miters were a nightmare. This thing took most of the day to work out and get to this point.

First picture is the bracket raw sitting loose. The angled arm hanging out in front of the carb throttle linkage arm is where we are going to attach a gusseted face to drill to receive the cable sheath connector. The arm is too long, we just let it run wild at this point. We'll pick up a throttle cable set-up next day or so, and once we determine the specific size of the attachment surface it will get welded in place, and then the excess of the support arm will get cut off flush with the edge of it.



The second picture shows the detail of the notches required to clear everything around the "front" (remember, this carb is turned 90-degrees) of the carb. Had to have space for bumps in the casting, the idle adjustment screw, clear the accelerator pump arm, etc. What a pain...



The third picture is the bracket on the carb from the front. As you can see, the "arm" comes off the carb at an angle. This adds a bit of rigidity/structure (note that almost everything is triangulated), as well as gives additional room between the cable mount surface (when it is finally in place) and the maximum throw of the throttle arm on the carb.



The fourth picture is the raw bracket on the carb from the driver's side where it will hang above the inside edge of the valve cover. With the lifted and angled attachment arm it will leave the vast majority of the "Power By Ford" lettering clearly visible from almost any angle. The bottom of the arm just clears the valve cover by about 3/16" or so. VC r&r is going to require removal of the throttle linkage most likely, but it should be a fairly rare occurance anyway.



The fifth (and last) picture is a rough outline of where the cable attachment face needs to be welded in, and about where the cable will ultimately be positioned. I know the red arrows are crude, but hey, it works to get the point across, right?



Thoughts?

 

[jahearne]

I like the idea of mounting the bracket to the carb instead of the valve cover. I used the linkage off stock cable operated 1V and bolted to the valve cover and modified it to work with AOD TV linkage.



V8 throttle cabe is too short so I used stock 250 throttle cable that's a bit too long, but it works. A 14" air cleaner covers most of it.

 

[PhantomAce]

Well, we received the Lokar cable we ordered, and then had to make some adjustments to the cable mount.
Basically, the original location of the pad for the cable to attach to was too close to the linkage, so it didn't give enough space for the throttle to be applied fully. When I designed it we didn't have any dimensions of the Lokar cable to work from, and my "guess" was apparently about 1/4" too little, oh well.
So, I built a box-out area from 3/4" angle and flat stock, cut off the existing arm I had fab'ed, attached the new "box", and went from there.
Now we have enough clearance with about 1/4" to spare after the carb linkage hits WOT, and it doesn't intrude on the valve cover. We don't have it hard mounted to the engine yet, but we have mocked it up, and there is about 1/4" between the bottom of the "box" and the stock valve cover, and the cable is oriented with the sheath directly over the center of the "O" in "Power" on the PowerByFord script.
The 3-ft Lokar cable was too long, but I think a 2-ft would have been too short, so I'll just shorten the 3-ft cable and sheath about 6-to-9 inches or so when we install it to the car and have the hard mount brackets for the cable built and positioned.
(Going to build a bracket to carry the cable sheath off the stock coil mount bolt holes and then go from there on final length to the more "modern" Pinto throttle pedal we're going to use. The engine has a DUI one-wire ignition, so the coil isn't going to be mounted there anyway. Still need to make a few modifications to the pedal assembly yet though.)
I need to take the linkage mount off the carb one more time, sand it lightly, and repaint, as it's gotten a bit scratched up messing with it, but the pictures below should give a pretty good idea of what it will look like on the car.

Images below are as follows, in order:
- First picture is the bracket on the carb as it will look from the driver's front fender.
- Second picture is the throttle linkage as it will be from the "front" of the car at idle (note position of the cable linkage)
- Third picture is also from what would be the "front" of the car, but with the throttle at WOT. Note the 1/4"+/- of extra travel available before the Lokar linkage end bottoms out. THIS is what we were after. Just enough travel to hit the go pedal fully, but not have the linkage or bracket intrude over the valve cover any more than absolutely necessary.


Thoughts?

 

[Crosley]

i had the same problem with location of cable end at carb... not enough pull. Third try and I had it correct.

Watch the cable pull so you do not pull too much and stretch the cable or bend something.

I welded a bolt and nut type stop on the floor of my car to adjust where the throttle pedal was stopped at.

 

[Gene Fiore]

Looks great! You could probably make some of those brackets and sell them...

 

[rocklord]

Looks great! You could probably make some of those brackets and sell them...

+1

I'd be in that long line with everybody else.