68 mustang inline six

from the plugs is a new 1 to me. Anywhere else? Is the engine still together? If so - an inspection (while slowly turning) w/them out may reveal more?

OK, "quick 1/4 mi/street" speaks to the tq issue more than ralley, drag, etc...
 
Howdy Again Peashooter:

Tell me more about the oil leak. Is it external? Most likely a valve cover gasket problem.

Or are the spark plugs getting oil fouled internally? Possibly worn or destroyed valve guide seals. Possibly a ring seal problem. How long has it been since this engine had any maintainance? Has any previous engine work been done? Have you done a compression test on this engine yet? That could reveal the current status of the engine.

I understand you want more power/acceleration. The package to do that efficiently will include the engine, trans, rear end gearing and suspension.

May I recommend a multi step approach to your project; 1st assess your current engine and vehicle. 2nd, tune it for max efficiency. 3rd read and study all of your options. Talk with others who have complete this process and listen. Once you have a plan in mind, consider doing things in stages so that your ride is down the least amount of time possible.

Also, where are you located? I ask for two reasons; locale will have an effect on advice, and others may be nearby to offer support and help.

In addition to the Falcon Performance Handbook, I'd also recommend a shop manual for your year and vehicle.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Hello David,

The plugs are getting fouled out internally and the side of the engine block is pretty greasy with oil all the time. Before I bought it this summer I don't know when was the last time it had maintainence but from what I know it had been sitting for 4 years. And no compression test yet but I will do one so I find the current state of the engine.

I'm located in Atlanta, Georgia

Thanks,
Peashooter
 
chad":1991stlk said:
from the plugs is a new 1 to me. Anywhere else? Is the engine still together? If so - an inspection (while slowly turning) w/them out may reveal more?

OK, "quick 1/4 mi/street" speaks to the tq issue more than ralley, drag, etc...

I'm pretty sure its from the plugs because The plugs are getting fouled out. After I bought it in July I tuned it and changed out all the spark plugs. Last week It started turning off on me. So I checked the plugs and 3 of them were fouled out.

So what would be the best bang for the buck to improve the torque in my car?
 
Thanks for the posts. Good to B along for your ride (in more ways than one)!

unless ur more wealthy than me (not hard to do) I would concur w/David: a "staged approach" is a great idea.
U get to learn, have a machine that runs AND save money (the 3 R all a priority 2 me).
Tri power may B something 1) further on the learning curve 4 U and, has to wait for a 2) through check up on the state of the engine U have in front of U now.
If that's the goal - keep ur mind on it and start today on the 1st steps that need to B in place for that. It's a system & each prt relates to the others. Build constantly toward that (if you've done ur research and it truly is the goal for U) and don't change 1/2 way. That will create only a buncha parts that don't hang together well. It's a bit of a commitment to get there...
 
Howdy Back Peashooter:

Your next step is to do a compression check of each cylinder. If Cylinder pressure is ok then it's likely that you have two oil leaks given your description; A leaky valve cover gasket, and leaking valve guide seals. Both the valve cover gasket and the valve guide seals are part of a valve job gasket kit. A valve cover gasket can be bought separately and is easy to change. Valve guide seals are a little more involve to change.

Which begs the question, can you live with leaks until you can find and prep a late model head? Because you'll need the gasket kit with the new head. It will include a head gasket as well as all the little gaskets you will need.

1st do the compression check then we'll go from there.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for the advice Chad. I was looking through the tech sections
of classic inlines and it said that the first 2 upgrades should be headers and ignition. I was thinking about getting dual exhaust headers but I know David is telling me to get a late model head on my engine so I ran into the aluminum head they offer on classic inlines. Its pricey but well worth the upgrade because there's a good hp gain. I told one of my friends about the dual headers and he told me that I don't have the engine to have dual exhaust headers. Is he right?

Should I start with the headers and exhaust or look into the classic inlines aluminum head?

Thanks,
 
68_sixpeashooter":33v449ei said:
...I told one of my friends about the dual headers and he told me that I don't have the engine to have dual exhaust headers. Is he right?

Should I start with the headers and exhaust or look into the classic inlines aluminum head?

Thanks,

The 200 six has one of the worst designed exhaust manifolds ever devised in the modern post WWII era. To me it looks even less efficient that the cast in 1bbl intake manifold. So if your friend is used to 4 cylinder motors, or V6 or V8 motor exhaust he'd be right. If this was a normal V6 with 200ci displacement it wouldn't need headers until you had done some other improvements. But on this motor its one of the weakest points, so should be done first.
 
"...1st do the compression check..."

any "add ons" need to go on a good "base motor". the amount of additional advantage from each mod to that motor can be debated /or/ researched from a scientific (real data compiled from multiple sources) basis. I'd get the "in breath" (head, carb etc) squared away (along w/"the fire" dizzy, ignition sys, etc) B4 I went to "out breath" factors. just me, I'm not a mechanic.

Have fun, be safe, become educated-research well (ie LOTS) before spending, spend in line w/the end goal/final application.
8)
 
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