Advantage of using a v8 radiator?

[Anonymous]

Upon upgrading from a 170 to a 250, the operating temperature has increased dramtically in our Falcon... I am running no thermostat, a 2300 cfm electric fan, and a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and a solvent designed to help cars run cooler. It seems to run around 200 degrees under normal driving conditions, and I haven't had a chance to sit in traffic yet... I think that 180 should be an ideal operating temperature and maybe 200 in traffic...

There is nothing I can really do with the fan situation, I am using it as a pusher instead of a puller and it puts out a decent amount of air... I'm sure that the old radiator is full of sludge in the bottom and probably could be improved upon.. Would using a V8 radiator be possible? How is it different than the 6 cyl one? They are the same dimensions but have a different part #. A new V8 radiator is actually $10 cheaper than the 6 counterpart.

 

[Anonymous]

They differ in the position of the outlets and the diameter of the outlets. Some small blocks had inlet/outlet staggered, some on the same side, all had 1-3/4" dia. outlets while the 170/200 uses a 1.5" dia.

Which makes me curious.... the 250 used the larger 1-3/4" hoses on the water pump and thermostat. How did you work around that?

 

[Anonymous]

The upper hose fit OK, the lower hose I used a Granada hose for the part the attached to the water pump and a Falcon hose for where it attched to the rad... Both were cut in half and attached using a reducer for an exhaust pipe and hose clamps... Works pretty well.

So a V8 rad has the outlets on the same side... Would a Mustang be the same? I am trying to find a better radiator on the cheap thats a bolt in...

 

[Anonymous]

Back before I knew better and I put the 302 in my '62 F-100, I used the original radiator in it (it's huge) the top outlet was on the correct side but the bottom one was on the wrong side, I just had a piece of exhast pipe bent to fit and used short bits of radiator hose on each end, it's been on there for 7 or 8 years. I think if you could get some stainless pipe it would be better.

Just a thought

See Ya,
Mike

 

[Anonymous]

But would a V8 rad make it run cooler? Is there anything besides larger inlets/outlets that make it better?

 

[Falcon62]

But would a V8 rad make it run cooler? Is there anything besides larger inlets/outlets that make it better?

If you install a thermostat it might run cooler. 8) In answer to your second question, the other difference is the V8 core is 2" thick, while IIRC, the I6 core is 1 1/2".

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Hillbilly,
I just finished putting a 250 in my '65 falcon. I already had a heavy duty 6 cyl rad (2 1/4" thk) I had my local rad shop increase the outlet & inlet to 1 1/2" dia and move the inlet to the top corner of the rad. I then used '75 Maverick hoses that I cut short to fit. I also use a flat flex fan which clears the rad by 7/8" because I installed the motor back 3/4". The motor has 10:1 compression, 280 deg cam and 3-45DCOE webers on an Australian head. With all of this the car runs at 180 deg on the road and will creep ip to 195 in stop & go traffic on a hot day. I hope this gives you some ideas.
Hotrod Bill

 

[CobraSix]

If you are overheating that much, look for something else as the problem. You radiator may be the problem, but not because it is an I6 radiator.

Consider a 3 or 4 row radiator. That make those for the 6 cylinders (or at least they make 3 rows for them). I did that because my radiator was plugged and clogged. I think my stock 2 row would have been fine if it was in good shape. Quite Possible that your old 170 radiator is a little too old/dirty and just can't handle the addition cooling.

 

[Anonymous]

I was going to do the same thing with my 66 Ranchero. That way I could do a straight bolt on fan shroud.
Scott Drake Mustang [(805) 988-9992] has a "Custom Radiator" for early cars equipped with late model 302 where the water pump outlet is on the driver's side. American made.
Part #259-C for 1964-66 Late 302, 3 Core $189.95
Part #259-4C for 1964-66 Late 302 4 Core $259.95
Of course mounting hardware is extra and not included!
Let me know how it goes.

 

[MustangSix]

The radiator for a stock 289 differs from the radiator for a 200 only in the position and size of the inlet and outlet. It has the same cooling capacity.

You need a thermostat to maintain internal pressure on the system.

1. Make sure it's really overheating. Never trust a stock gauge.

2. Make sure the radiator cap is good and is the right rating. You should be runing a 13-16 lb cap.

3. Check to make sure the radiator is not clogged. Anytime you swap engines you take a chance on loosening up garbage that could find it's way into the top tank and clog the radiator.

4. Use a good fan. Electrics are ok, but an engine turned fan can move lots more air. And sometimes an electric fan can actually restrict airflow thru a radiator. The best air mover will be a clutch fan.

5. whatever fan you use, make sure it is positioned so that it is actually drawing air thru the radiator and not from the edge of the fan. Electrics need to be mounted with the shroud flush against the core.

6. Add a coolant recovery system if you don't already have one.

 

[63redtudor]

My '65 falcon had a real problem overheating with the stock radiator as the motor (200) has been overbored .030". On a cold day it would overheat at an idle in a couple of minutes. 20mph+ it did ok, but any slower than that & it would also overheat. I swapped in a 3-core & I haven't had any problems since (got mine from Califonia Mustang, but other places make 3-cores as well). I've even let the car idle for 10-15 minutes & it won't even get close to overheating. The fan is qite close to the radiator, about 3/4"-1" though. Looks stock as well for those that are looking for the stock look. Take care,
Edwin