Another Duraspark question :P

[rommaster2]

Ok well i'm making a wiring harness for my falcon (and my sisters stang) to hopefully streamline the installation of duraspark 2's into our respective rides.

I understand the wiring diagram fairly well (i mean c'mon its color coded ) the only thing i am wondering is how to trigger the module. Is it ok to just bypass the resistor to the coil and then put the modules power to the coil as well. I ask because the wiring diagram for the gm module is like that, but i'm using a stock ford module for both installs.

So yeah can i just bypass the resistor wire and then have an eyelet that goes to the positive for the module to the positive for the coil. Or should I splice them both on the hot 12v wire for the ignition?

 

[fordconvert]

What are you using for connectors to the module? Thats where I would make the splice. If you are using regular crimp terminals I would just use and end made for larger size wire and twist them together and crimp them both under the same lug. If you are buying (or junkyarding) an OE harness make the joint where you splice the new (or old) harness to your new wires. THe ford modules also have the white? wire that is a spark retard for easier starts. Thats a real cool feature for a 'built' motor but not critical for a stocker.

 

[Ronbo]

I ran mine both with and without the resistor wire(68 Mustang). I was having problems at first so I eliminated the resistor wire to be sure that wasn't my problem, and it wasn't. The coil Accel Super Coil) had right around 9.45 VDC with the wire in the circuit.

 

[rommaster2]

Is it normal for the distributor to not want to come out, like i had to use a slide hammer to get it out. Also the new one does not want to go back in, I've worked it enough to go back in so that the distributor is almost down but now all the way. the rotor turns with the motor but it isn't all the way down adn where its at now i cant think of how to get it in short of hammering the top.

 

[flash_point01]

You shouldn't have to do any hammering to get the distributors in or out. Compare the length from the base to the bottom of the bushing from the new and old distributors and make sure they're the same. Also make ure that the new and old bushings are in good condition. Did you make sure that #1 was at TDC before pulling or replacing the distributor? Also there are a few people who had to put a very light sanding on the shaft where it enters the block, maybe thats it. As for the wiring I would recomend bypasssing the resistor and supplying a direct 12v. to the coil. Remember to remove that sneaky brown wire from the solenoid.
As for the stock duraspark module i don't have much experience with it so my adive is limited to the wiring diagrams I linked in the Duraspark write up sticky.

Have fun

Chris

 

[rommaster2]

Both the distributor gears and lengths are the same. Like i said it went down enough to where it will turn with the motor and it appears to be turning the oil pump driveshaft as i get oil pressure. However as stated before it is not all the way down flush like the old one.

Yes it was at TDC

 

[JackFish]

Both the distributor gears and lengths are the same. Like i said it went down enough to where it will turn with the motor and it appears to be turning the oil pump driveshaft as i get oil pressure. However as stated before it is not all the way down flush like the old one.

Yes it was at TDC

Are you cranking the engine with the dizzy not seated properly?

 

[rommaster2]

Update, I was able to get it in, basically the oil pump driveshaft wasn't lining up right so i had to turn the motor over while pushing to get it in properly.

Now there is no spark, i have power to the coil and module but none after the coil. I'm gonna review the wiring diagrams and see if i can find a ground i might have missed.

hmmm, just a new thought, is the resistor wire also grounded? If so then perhaps i need to add an external ground to my coil.

 

[Ronbo]

The distributor is grounded to the block. You should run a ground for the module. Its grounded, but a seperate ground for it is better (kind of like my car running with the resistor wire but its better to not have it in the circuit). DO NOT ADD A GROUND TO YOUR COIL. If you have juice at the coil, how much is it?

Ron

 

[fordconvert]

Does the ford module ground through its case like the rest of them?

 

[rommaster2]

I have 12 volts at the coil and 12 volts at the module. I was reviewing the wiring diagrams and believe i have found the problem. I did exactly what a previous poster did and forgot the little brown wire. I see on the diagrams that it is supposed to link to the power so I will run a wire to it tonight after work and hopefully she is on the mark properly, at the very least I know from last night that the distributor will come out .

 

[Ronbo]

I believe it is grounded through the case. On my bronco the module is mounted on a plastic fender-well so a separate ground wire is used.

I thought the brown wire was supposed to be disconnected? Mine is and it runs?

You could have a bad distributor there. I'm always getting bad "new" parts these days. :roll:

Ron

 

[rommaster2]

Perhaps a picture of what i'm using could help to identify my problem.



So basically I have bypassed the resistor wire and am using that to power the module and the coil. When looking at the wiring diagrams I noticed I do not have the starter bypass wired into it, but I do not know where the starter bypass would be so i'm not sure how to wire it back into it. Oh and the way I bypassed the resistor was by splicing in at the ignition switch if that makes a difference.

 

[Ronbo]

Looks good to me. Hey just a thought, given your issues dropping the distributor in do you think you may be off a tooth or twenty? Usually the distributor is already engaged with the cam when it gets hung up on the oil pump but it couldnt hurt to double chack. I'll take a look at my wiring when I get home tonight but your drawing is pretty much how I remember it to be wired. Did you have fun finding that PINK wire? My back still hurts! :roll:

Ron

 

[rommaster2]

Oh yes finding the pink wire was loads of fun , though to be fair much easier then expected.

 

[fordconvert]

The 'tooth off' thing only becomes a problem if you cant rotate the dizzy far enough to get it in time. Usually its the vacuum advance can that runs into something. If you dont want to re drop the dizzy you can just cheat and move all the plug wires over one.

 

[rommaster2]

Well First off it was off alot of teeth, but after fixing that still no dice. I finally pulled it and put the old one back in to see if it worked which would then imply either my module or my distributor is bad. Since I had already tried two modules that I had around, and My old distributor runs the car, I can only assume that the distributor is bad.

So i am warrantying it out at Kragens should be in tommorrow .

 

[Ronbo]

Ever get it worked out?

 

[rommaster2]

Yeah, it turns out my wiring is good and that the distributor was bad. I got the new one last night and threw it in, car fired right up. Now I'm tuning it still, it runs different then the load o but it doesnt get a proper vacuum source from the 1100. Now I just need to rig up a throttle cable and i can run a two barrel.

 

[Ronbo]

I didn't like it when I put mine in either. The Pertronix/Super Coil WAS better. After playing with the springs a bit it feels close. I dont have any real figures to go off of other than "seat of the pants". I'm waiting on the gas mileage figures to make a final call. Probably the best part of the thing is dependability. Don't have to worry about points/pertronix failure.
Haven't messed with the vacuum either, half a dozen of one, six of the other. I'm running a DGES for now but I might go back to the DGEV. With traffic the way it is, it seems better to throw two barrels at once then to wait on the vacuum secondaries to kick in.
Ron