Converted my wife's daily driver to points-controlled electronic ignition using a Motorcraft ignition module off a '93 F150. Credit for this swap goes to gofastforless.com. I emailed the man who wrote the site to verify a couple of specifics, and he responded, which I appreciate.
The goal of the project was to keep from having to clean/change points, which are hard to get to on this vehicle. But the after-swap test drive showed an (unexpected) noticeable improvement in idle quality, (50 rpm increase in idle speed), throttle response and acceleration clearly better. Felt like the first drive after a timing advance, after a season of running with soggy timing. I wager an economy improvement is a sure bet.
This is not a Ford vehicle, but the information may be valuable to those with old-vintage engines, where ignition upgrade options are limited, or you prefer to keep the factory points distributor in service. For this vehicle there are no upgrade options, except PerTronix, (requiring breaker plate mods to fit it). A proven factory engineered and built ignition over a compact aftermarket unit provides more peace of mind IMO.
The TFI module controls the dwell, the ignition system operates on full battery voltage, and the points only see milliamps of current. A vast improvement over the ballast resistor, full amperage passing across the points, and regular tuning to keep the points clean and properly gapped. The gap is unimportant, as long as they make-break contact, the module handles the rest. The coil fires on points opening (breaking the contact), the same as stock, therefore no ignition timing change is necessary. (Using a Chrysler ignition box on points, the coil fires when points close (make contact), requiring a resetting of base timing.)
Post-swap timing and dwell check showed no change in ignition timing. Dwell was 30* at idle, 31* at speed, and never varied. (Inline 6)
Relative to swapping a distributor this is a far easier conversion, and leaves the factory timing curve intact.
Use a GRAY colored module. Any black module won't work. The early type with the 3 pins on top will work, the newer remote-mounted modules are better, already bedded in a heat-sink. Use the factory harness plug if available.
PIN 1 and PIN 4: IGNITION SWITCH POWER (full battery voltage) AND COIL POSITIVE (+)
PIN 2: POINTS WIRE. This is the wire from distributor to coil negative (-) when stock. Remove from coil (-) and attach here.
PIN3: not used
PIN5: COIL NEGATIVE (-)
PIN6: GROUND
If the module is well grounded, pin #6 GROUND can be omitted. I used the pin, running the wire to the voltage regulator/engine block ground lug on the generator. Take the time and get everything clean. A good ground is key to correct function and longevity.
Take the time to solder the connections, and use a quality glue-infused shrink-tube.
BEFORE
AFTER
The goal of the project was to keep from having to clean/change points, which are hard to get to on this vehicle. But the after-swap test drive showed an (unexpected) noticeable improvement in idle quality, (50 rpm increase in idle speed), throttle response and acceleration clearly better. Felt like the first drive after a timing advance, after a season of running with soggy timing. I wager an economy improvement is a sure bet.
This is not a Ford vehicle, but the information may be valuable to those with old-vintage engines, where ignition upgrade options are limited, or you prefer to keep the factory points distributor in service. For this vehicle there are no upgrade options, except PerTronix, (requiring breaker plate mods to fit it). A proven factory engineered and built ignition over a compact aftermarket unit provides more peace of mind IMO.
The TFI module controls the dwell, the ignition system operates on full battery voltage, and the points only see milliamps of current. A vast improvement over the ballast resistor, full amperage passing across the points, and regular tuning to keep the points clean and properly gapped. The gap is unimportant, as long as they make-break contact, the module handles the rest. The coil fires on points opening (breaking the contact), the same as stock, therefore no ignition timing change is necessary. (Using a Chrysler ignition box on points, the coil fires when points close (make contact), requiring a resetting of base timing.)
Post-swap timing and dwell check showed no change in ignition timing. Dwell was 30* at idle, 31* at speed, and never varied. (Inline 6)
Relative to swapping a distributor this is a far easier conversion, and leaves the factory timing curve intact.
Use a GRAY colored module. Any black module won't work. The early type with the 3 pins on top will work, the newer remote-mounted modules are better, already bedded in a heat-sink. Use the factory harness plug if available.
PIN 1 and PIN 4: IGNITION SWITCH POWER (full battery voltage) AND COIL POSITIVE (+)
PIN 2: POINTS WIRE. This is the wire from distributor to coil negative (-) when stock. Remove from coil (-) and attach here.
PIN3: not used
PIN5: COIL NEGATIVE (-)
PIN6: GROUND
If the module is well grounded, pin #6 GROUND can be omitted. I used the pin, running the wire to the voltage regulator/engine block ground lug on the generator. Take the time and get everything clean. A good ground is key to correct function and longevity.
Take the time to solder the connections, and use a quality glue-infused shrink-tube.
BEFORE
AFTER
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