Another Turbo 200 nears completion....

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I for one am patiently waiting for Version 2.0...heh

You have my undivided attention, as I would REALLY like to build a Turbo setup for my old Iron 223ci in my 59 f100...

Thanks for your dedication and sharing all your findings. I think I have read and re-read this whole thread 10+ times...heh


Thanks again,


Brad
 
Y'all may have to wait a little longer, I just have been so busy lately, trying to get the real important irons out of the fire, first!
(Or is it keep them in? The toys have to wait for later)
 
Why does it show seven pages of posts, but when I click on the last page, it says something about not existing?

Is that my proxy?
 
addo":1ia0pt1t said:
Why does it show seven pages of posts, but when I click on the last page, it says something about not existing?

Is that my proxy?

Not familiar with how the software operates
 
Question for Linc or anyone else :)

Can all the tubing be made out of regular exhaust pipe or do you need somthing of a thicker gauge, especially the "J" pipe?

Does it hurt to mig it all together vs tig welding? I have a mig welder and am good at it but dont have access to a tig nor have I ever tig welded somthing before.

Do you have to run a intercooler or can you start out without one.

I know that the optimum compression is around 8.5:1 but what happens if you boost a higher compression engine?

Cut the boost and timing back?

350 cfm carb Holley....right??

To hook up all this to a very expensive dual exhaust system, can you just Y it back together from the down pipe?

And I know....turbocharging by Hugh Macinnes (sp)

Oh...BTW, I made this a sticky

Thanks,

Doug
 
Hi Doug, thanks for making it a sticky .... though the whole thread could be gone through and cleaned up quite a bit and knocked down to about 3 pages!!


Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
Can all the tubing be made out of regular exhaust pipe or do you need somthing of a thicker gauge, especially the "J" pipe?

AVOID at all costs thin walled pipe. The thicker, the better it can handle the weight, heat and stress. I have seen some pretty nice installations fail after about a year, because thin-walled pipe can't take the abuse. The scraps I welded together are actually from a Ford Explorer....and the wall thickness is abnormally thick, maybe about .080"?? Maybe it's just .065" but it is definitely thicker than plain exhaust pipe. Another nice thing is the scraps I used are all mandrel-bent pieces from the factory. I don't have a "crush" bent piece anywhere. Best thing is, it was all FREE!!

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
Does it hurt to mig it all together vs tig welding? I have a mig welder and am good at it but dont have access to a tig nor have I ever tig welded somthing before.

MIG is just fine. I used the TIG on a lot of the intercooler pipe because that was much thinner wall thickness, and it is a lot easier to fill gaps with TIG than MIG if the pipes don't meet up perfectly. All my exhaust pieces were MIG'd, IIRC.

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
Do you have to run a intercooler or can you start out without one.

An intercooler will allow you to run more boost, or lower octane fuel...depending. Any time you get the air going into the engine cooled down, you reduce the engine's tendency to detonate. If all you have is 91 octane fuel, an intercooler may help you run a few extra PSI of boost.

It also depends on the efficiency range of the turbo. If you are forcing a "too small" turbo to push more than it should be, then the air temps coming out of it will be VERY hot. An intercooler will help to prevent heat damage from all parts downstream.

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
I know that the optimum compression is around 8.5:1 but what happens if you boost a higher compression engine?

Actually, 8.5:1 isn't the best for ALL engines. It really has a lot to do with the shape of the combustion chamber, whether the head is iron or aluminum, altitude, fuel octane used, engine operating temp, etc.

Boosting a higher compression engine will require higher octane fuel, and/or a system that injects alcohol and/or water.

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
Cut the boost and timing back?

Reducing timing will reduce detonation but will also kill power if it is the only method used to prevent detonation.
SOME timing reduction is necessary no matter what, since a densely packed fuel air charge in the cylinder will burn faster no matter what (since the molecules are a lot closer together). But too much retard kills power.

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
350 cfm carb Holley....right??

Depends on what you are comfortable with. My next carb is going to be a 2100 Motorcraft carb, because:
1) Has annular venturis already
2) has a solid float already
3) you can pull the top off to change jets without dumping fuel everywhere
4) The top is bolted down .... with a 5/16" stud! No bowl gaskets to leak fuel out of the bottom of the bowl
Cons are....single needle inlet looks to be about .080" or so...that could be a problem.

When being blow-through.....smaller carbs are a lot easier to tune than large ones. The better the pressure drop through the carb, the better the signal strength at the venturi. You want good, positive fuel flow through the venturi at all times. I think you can get too small, but even my 1.125" venturi 1-bbl carb would have been good for a high 12-second run with a good launch.

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
To hook up all this to a very expensive dual exhaust system, can you just Y it back together from the down pipe?

Sure... many guys split the exhaust right after the turbo into a "Y". The build on my 32 valve 4.6 liter is going to have a "Y" immediately after the turbo outlet.

Mustang_Geezer":3etbo5p4 said:
And I know....turbocharging by Hugh Macinnes (sp)

A good book for the bare basics ..... it is getting a little dated, though. It could stand to be modernized a bit.
 
Cool...Thanks! :D

I have access to "used" OEM exhaust systems so I'll be on the lookout for suitable pieces!

Another question,

Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

I have 2 flanges I had made several years back and I have mandrel bent U header tubes and I was going to weld a manifold together but lost interest in it...still have the tubes and flanges though.

Not looking for an 11 second ride.....14's or 13's would be fine by me and the simpler the setup the better! :D :D

Thanks,

Doug
 
Mustang_Geezer":1jhlz6tx said:
Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

A "J" is fine for many applications.

The absolute best set-up anywhere is each exhaust port feeding it own tiny turbo. They do make them that small, but that is extremely expensive. The next best thing is a full tubular header with equal length tubes. Also expnsive.

Straight sixes have one thing most engines don't:
A pair .... of three cylinders

HUH? The engine fires one of the front cylinders, then one of the back cylinders, etc. (1-5-3-6-2-4) The perfect place to put the turbo is right between cyls 3 and 4, and then use a divided turbine housing so cyls 1-2-3 feed one side and cyls 4-5-6 feed the other side. This makes a big difference in spool up time. If you look at straight six diesels, they almost always have this set-up.

Will and Kelly's log-type header is a compromise. In that case, it is just most convenient to put the turbo way up front, where there is space. If that pesky shock tower wasn't there, it would be best to put the turbo in the middle and split the flow.
 
Linc's is right!
If the shock tower wasn't there, our header would be a 3-into-2 setup like Linc's described.
A log header (like our's) is just an easy way to get the desired results with limited space.
Will
 
hay man i like the car and your power adder.
i would like to when im finshed line up your turboed 200 fox and my soon to be dune twin turboed 300 fox thats would be fun.
 
So, what's the latest on the new engine,1/4 mile runs etc??
Have not heard anything new in a while???

Linc's 200":1ma80qyb said:
Mustang_Geezer":1ma80qyb said:
Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

A "J" is fine for many applications.

The absolute best set-up anywhere is each exhaust port feeding it own tiny turbo. They do make them that small, but that is extremely expensive. The next best thing is a full tubular header with equal length tubes. Also expnsive.

Straight sixes have one thing most engines don't:
A pair .... of three cylinders
 
its just a six":2thau67x said:
So, what's the latest on the new engine,1/4 mile runs etc??
Have not heard anything new in a while???

Anything new, Linc?

(and why do I get "no posts exist for this topic" whenever I click on the 7th page?)
 
jamyers":pau6o722 said:
Anything new, Linc?
(and why do I get "no posts exist for this topic" whenever I click on the 7th page?)

Not sure about the errors on page 7....

Nothing new, and won't be. I have had waaaaaay too many irons in the fire at one time and have been slowly pulling them out, one at a time. One of those irons is anything drag racing related. I am going to be selling everything on ebay that has anything to do with turbos or carburetors or slicks or six bangers.... (blah blah blah) :-(

I have a lot of cool stuff, too.....FSPP cam (brand new), two brand new sets of forged pistons, some race prepped forged rods with ARP bolts, good blocks and heads, etc. etc. etc. It has all gotta go.
 
Have you ever considered running Propane or LPG?? Are'nt the 1bbl propane carbs not affected by pressure?? Plus with the higher octane?? Who knows what the outcome might be?? :D
 
I did elect to go with a Front mount intercooler, because just playing with the car running and my hand over the compressor outlet, the air coming out was WAAY hotter than I expected it to be (when air is compressed it heats up) I didn't want to pump all that hot air straight into the carb.

When air is compressed it cools down for example making dry ice is a compression of co2 in gaseous form...not being a know it all...just physics...I really enjoy reading this thread by the way!!!
 
ManikMaster":aow0xqo6 said:
When air is compressed it cools down for example making dry ice is a compression of co2 in gaseous form...not being a know it all...just physics...I really enjoy reading this thread by the way!!!

You have it backwards, compression heats, expansion cools. Think: diesel.
 
BergerFromage":swge41ls said:
MAN you guys need to get a step by step on how to do this!!!

i never really was too interested in putting a turbo on the motor i have now i was going to wait till later but now i REALLY want to do it

every one that has done this needs to compile a list of EVERYTHING that is needed and the prices, then do a step by step with pictures so people like me that have NO idea what is involved or how much time and money it takes can do this


im with nathan, a step by step would be killer, or just a whole whack of pics so we can see the whole project!!!
 
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