Another Turbo 300 in an F150

[JonL]

Next turbo victim

Turbo and Wastegate MasterPower T70 and 50mm wastegate

Here is the megasquirt adaptor board fits in the factory ECC IV case nicly. I only modification needed of was a couple strips of weather stripping to make the bottom of the circuit board from shorting out

fuel rail modified for SX fuel pressure regulator and guage.

Installed had to notch the intake a bit for the regulator

Runs good on the Megasquirt and 42lb injectors. Next up install boost, A/F, and fuel pressure guages.

 

[Emerald 74 4X4]

Cool! Dang a T-70! Are you doing head studs on that thing? Whats your horsepower goal? Do you have the turbo mounted yet?

 

[JonL]

The engine is stock for now we see how long it lasts. I'd like to see 500ish I need to get the RPMs up for that though which means higher flowing heads and intake. Not yet, I was going to mount the IC and do the cold side plumbing first. Planning to take it to an exhaust shop to have a Y-pipe made like yours or Turbo_B's.

 

[thelastf100]

hey how you doing, nice turbo i did a t-61 blow-thur on another 300-6 that i had it ran real good, what kind of turbo do you have what's the a/r,,,,,good luck with your build,,,,,keith

 

[JonL]

Got the turbo mounted

 

[Emerald 74 4X4]

Cool! Make sure you put some heat shielding of some sort on your hood to keep from burning your paint off! Nice job on your waste gate connection to the down pipe - neat bend and nice welds.

 

[JonL]

Yes, definanty need some heatshielding on the hood.
I can't take credit for the welds and the bends. I had an exhuast shop do it. They did the whole thing in a day and a half! The guy was awesome did a great job and was very reasonible. I should have done that a long time ago.

 

[JonL]

I found a nice cast Al 90 degree bend worked sweet for my air filter placement.

Here a monster 4inch core IC (overkill along with the turbo )

intake tube with 50mm blow off valve

and gauges

 

[JonL]

It runs! running 10# of boost. Fairly safe tune. So far no knocking... running on 92 octane fuel. and all on a 300 six with 166,000 miles
It doesn't build boost until about 4000RPM the turbo is maybe a bit big for this application

 

[thelastf100]

nice job on the turbo and the intercooler, looks like a real nice install on every thing and seems like it did not take you that long, my build took almost 2 years,, good luck ,,,,keith

 

[JonL]

Update I think I blew the head gasket... It seems to be consuming coolant. Time for an engine build.
Update turns out the heater core exploded the coolant was spraying out of that.

 

[Turbo_B]

4000 rpm spoolup?! I am dumbfounded. Care to email me a copy of a datalog? rfairey@carolina dot rr dot com

only if you are interested.

My HX35w will start to spool at 1800rpm and is all in around 2200. I will say that when I tried using the ball and socket flanges on the manifold it leaked like crazy. I welded mild steel flanges to the manifolds and bolted it to the J pipe which helped tremendously.

I just got back from a 500 mile trip in my truck, ran great, 17mpg at 65mph with a few WOT pulls onto entrance ramps.

By the way- congrats on getting it running!

 

[JonL]

It spools up quicker now. I had blown an intake pipe pop off. Suprisingly it still made 10lbs of boost with it blown off. Just took a lot longer to spool. My tach is doesn't work, so I not real sure of the exact spool RPM. I guess I have to do a datalog after I get the heater core replaced. I am using the craply ball and sockets, how did you know yours were leaking? I am impressed by the power this thing makes without a good tune and only 10psi of boost. I can't wait to turn it up to 25psi.

 

[Turbo_B]

lol, I could feel them leaking with my hand! I welded the entire j-pipe with it bolted to the manifold so I am not sure how I got them mis-aligned. At any rate, I bought mild steel 3bolt flanges off of ebay and welded them to the manifolds with NI-55 rod after preheating to 500 degrees in an oven. No leaks now!

I see you used the ECIV adaptor board, how is that working out? I made a jumper from a stock ford ecu connector to the MS harness and had a world of problems with signal stability and noise. Ended up making my own engine harness. I did loose my tach as well, but was able to run a wire from the (-) side of the coil to the factory tach input and get my tach back.

If you get a chance to video the truck, please share! A T-70 on high boost should sound something amazing! Are you using a muffler?

 

[Emerald 74 4X4]

I am using the ball/socket joints on my setup and have had to tighten them once. I had the engine on an engine stand when I mocked up and setup the joints as well as the rest of the y-pipe. I had to make sure they were square. They don't seal back pressure if they are not square to each other.

I still need a tachometer so I know what the heck is going on!

 

[JonL]

17mpg is great gas mileage considering the torque your making and the engine size would be needed to make that much torque, and your probably not even using the EGR valve.
I used the ECC-IV adaptor board it worked well, but didn't come with much documentation. You still need to know what pin goes where. I checked all the pinouts and the inj banks 1 and 2 were not connected and you need to run a couple of jumper wires across the board. The O2 sensor required a jumper as well to use the factory narrow band. How did you build your knock circuit? do you have a link to a schematic?
I was wondering if you preheated and used Ni rod to weld to the cast iron, well done!
My tach didn't work before I installed the megasquirt, so it may just be broken... I will have to give your method a shot though just to see.
I am not planing for a higher boost until I get an engine built and laterbars or a four link the leafspring wrap would definatly get out of control with more boost. I am using magnaflow 3.0'' straight thur muffer. It is suprisingly quiet.

 

[JonL]

I was getting some engine knocking at 10-12 lbs of boost, when I stayed in it for long periods of time, so I added 3 gals of E85 to a partial tank of gas, and it fixed the knocking

 

[JonL]

E85 somehow screwed up my tank selection valve. It pumped all my fuel into the other tank, so I lost fuel pressure and thought my fuel pump went out... I pulled the box off upgraded intank fuel pump to a 255l/hr pump that feeds the stock inline pump. I also got rid of the rear tank, brackets, and spare tire cutting 108lbs. Now I am running on mostly E85, and with the increase in fuel consumtion, I am losing spark at about 7lbs of boost. I will have to try regapping the plugs and see if that works.

 

[Turbo_B]

Interesting on the E85 and that tank selector valve. I'll remember not to use it since my selector valve is working for the time being.

I'll throw this out there since the front fuel tank is the small one, LMC carries a 38 gal rear for under $200.

I have a few friends with Volvos (yea I know) that like to hotrod the things. They discovered that adding a MSD coil and a MSD ignition box would stop spark blowout problems. They were buying used Nascar boxes off of ebay!

 

[75maverick]

you have the same size pipe or a half size bigger then turbo it will work better
from the way it look your piping is fine but a bit small
we i turbo ed my 300 I6 i had twin turbos and twin throttle body and duel 2 1/2 exaust pipe
if you need more specs ill send it